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  1. #1
    (aka Eenuis)
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    Replacing Serpentine Belt and Idler /Tensioner Pulleys

    My 06 has about 65000 miles on it and I'm beginning to hear more noise than usual from the Belt end of the engine, especially on start up and until it warms up a little...Nothing serious like metal to metal grinding, or squealing, but a noise like rough bearings or something not running smooth (hard to explain) but it isn't normal or as quiet as it use to be..

    My question: I'm guessing it's either the Tensioner Pulley or the Idler Pulley, or both making the noise..the belt looks okay but it is showing it's age too..Wondering if I should do a wholesale change out of all three items; Belt, Idler and tensioner Pulley..and I see the tensioner arm and pulley are pretty simple to get to to relieve the tension on the belt, But How hard is it to replace the two Pulleys? do I need to remove the fan shroud, etc?...Otherwise I'm thinking about letting the dealer do it all..

    any advice or insite appreciated
    Last edited by Dennis; 11-18-2012 at 10:36 AM.
    I think it should be allowed to perform Retroactive Abortions on some Liberals still alive.

    '06 H3, Adventure Package, Boulder Grey
    '12 Jaguar XF, British Racing Green

  2. #2
    Hummer Enthusiast
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    Re: Replacing Serpentine Belt and Idler /Tensioner Pulleys

    Easy to change out. No need to take fan or shroud off. It is right with fingers but patience will get it done.

    Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
    2007 Hummer H3. Adventure Package. LT285/75R16 Kelly TSR

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to telemike For This Useful Post:

    Dennis (11-18-2012)

  4. #3
    Mr. Beretta
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    If it sounds like loose metal being shaken, then it could be either the bearings in either the tensioner and/or pulley. Best is to try and determine what side of the engine the noise is coming from. If driver side, it is the pulley and it is a pain to access the bolts which are installed from the side. (SM recommends the removal of the wheelhouse liner, radiator hose to access the bolts...never tried it so can't say for sure). The tensioner is a heck of a lot straight forward and easy to do. But either should be easy to anyone with some limited mechanical experience.

    SERVICE MANUAL PROCEDURE IDLER PULLEY:
    •Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement .
    •Remove the left front wheel . Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
    •Remove the left front wheelhouse liner. Refer to Wheelhouse Panel Replacement .
    •Drain the engine cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling .
    •Remove the radiator outlet hose. Refer to Radiator Outlet Hose Replacement .
    •Remove the drive belt idler pulley bolts.
    •Remove drive belt idler pulley.
    Install torque:
    Tighten the bolts in sequence to 50 Nm (37 lb ft).
    PROBABLY A GOOD TIME TO DO A COMPLETE DRAIN/FLUSH OF THE COOLING SYSTEM IF THE HOSE IS REMOVED.







    SERVICE MANUAL PROCEDURE - TENSIONER:
    •Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement .
    •Using a wrench, loosen and remove the drive belt tensioner bolt.
    •Remove the drive belt tensioner.
    Install torque:
    50 Nm (37 lb ft).

    Belt R&R


    •Install a 3/8 inch breaker bar into the drive belt tensioner (7).
    •Rotate the tensioner (7) clockwise, in order to relieve the tension on the drive belt (1).
    •Slide the drive belt (1) off of the water pump pulley (2).
    •Rotate the drive belt tensioner (7) counterclockwise, allowing the tensioner to return to the relaxed position.
    •Remove the drive belt (1) from the remaining pulleys.
    Last edited by f5moab; 11-18-2012 at 11:18 AM.


  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to f5moab For This Useful Post:

    AbsntMnded (12-09-2012), Dennis (11-18-2012)

  6. #4
    El Diablo
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    You can do it and you might as well do all three.

  7. #5
    (aka Eenuis)
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    Quote Originally Posted by f5moab View Post
    If it sounds like loose metal being shaken, then it could be either the bearings in either the tensioner and/or pulley. .
    Thank you so much Doug for your illistrations and input here on the subjuct..(much appreciated)...I think I can remove the idler pulley alone without taking the bracket off too....I just got back from the auto-part store and got everything including a loan of a special long pry bar tool for the tensioner...I'll report back when I get it all done.
    I think it should be allowed to perform Retroactive Abortions on some Liberals still alive.

    '06 H3, Adventure Package, Boulder Grey
    '12 Jaguar XF, British Racing Green

  8. #6
    Street Tire
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    You shouldn't need a pry bar for the tensioner. There's a square hole designed to fit a 3/8" breaker bar perfectly. A long-handled 3/8" drive ratchet works well also since you can put the handle in a better leverage spot.

  9. #7
    (aka Eenuis)
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    All Done and whisper quiet again like new!

    I replaced the Entire tensioner and it's pulley, also the Idler Pulley and the Belt..with new.

    Mr Rich..the pry bar was really a long (2' long) flat bar stock with a 3/8" square socket thingy on the end..this tool is invaluable..The auto parts store lent it to me...it comes in a tool kit with 5 or 6 different shallow metric sockets and some crow's feet, a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter.......basically designed for Tensioners of all sorts and types...

    Again Thanks to Doug as his belt circuit diagram was very useful.

    If anybody wants further details let me know..otherwise it's pretty easy like Mike said...No shrouds needed to be removed.

    The tough thing was getting the Idler pulley off and on...there isn't much room for a fat hand between the fan blade and the pulley bolt..a few layers of flesh later, I was off and on with the new pulley...Both the Tensioner bolt and the Idler pulley bolt are 15mm...I re-torqued them to 40 lbft.
    Last edited by Dennis; 11-18-2012 at 09:09 PM.
    I think it should be allowed to perform Retroactive Abortions on some Liberals still alive.

    '06 H3, Adventure Package, Boulder Grey
    '12 Jaguar XF, British Racing Green

  10. #8
    Hummer Enthusiast
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    Re: Replacing Serpentine Belt and Idler /Tensioner Pulleys

    Yes, the driver side pulley will remove skin...

    Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
    2007 Hummer H3. Adventure Package. LT285/75R16 Kelly TSR

  11. #9
    El Diablo
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    Glad to hear you're all fixed!

  12. #10
    (aka Eenuis)
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    Thanks Alex...

    LOL..This is what my hand and wrist looks like after wrestling with that Idler Pulley bolt....

    I think it should be allowed to perform Retroactive Abortions on some Liberals still alive.

    '06 H3, Adventure Package, Boulder Grey
    '12 Jaguar XF, British Racing Green

  13. #11
    (aka Eenuis)
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    Called the Dealer today for S&Gs, just to see what the labor only cost would have been for what I was able to do myself yesterday..

    Prices may vary depending on locality;

    R & R

    Serpentine Belt ...........$32.00

    Idler Pulley..................$173.00

    Tensioner/pulley assy....$62.00

    Total Labor costs savings:........$267.00
    I think it should be allowed to perform Retroactive Abortions on some Liberals still alive.

    '06 H3, Adventure Package, Boulder Grey
    '12 Jaguar XF, British Racing Green


 

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