Search results

What year is your h3? Looks like the rear door check is listed as 15286625 for the very first h3s build in 2005 and 15929238 for all h3s and h3ts built after that.

Also curious if they were able to get h3t rear fender flares to fit in the h3 wheel well in your rig. They were about an inch off when I mocked it up.

How much is the coupler going for?

Do you recall which brand? I tried the two on rockauto.

Watch out for the aftermarket fan clutches, I tried 2 non oem clutches and they both stuck out too far and hit the radiator. I would be surprised if they worked with an oem alpha setup.

H3 rear glass isn't flat. I have a project ongoing to replace the rear glass with a steel flip up access door and had to add a bit of curve to make it look good. Not saying flat glass wouldn't work bit I don't think it would look factory on a stretch project.

Try car-part.com that is how I found mine finally.

Unique to alpha h3s so they are hard to find. Good luck

Can't believe this hasn't already sold... as someone who searched for a year or two for all of the alpha specific parts I know this is a steal even if the engine or trans needs work. If it were local to me I would buy it as a spare

Look for a number on your lock cylinder on the oem rack, then go look for h3 roof rack keys on ebay.

I think that is related to a sensor in the master cylinder or abs module. Unfortunately I think that whole assembly on the firewall is replaced as a unit if it is the culprit.

I just did the same thing but made my own frame side mounts. Here are the bushing and tubes I used for reference and used the stock h3 leaf springs with them...

Oh and to give you some piece of mind I have since modified my core support so the top section near the radiator unbolts so I can lift the radiator straight up if I need to service it without having to pull the fan clutch. Granted I don't wheel as hard as you or do as much flexing but I have...

I think one signal goes from 0v to 5v and the other goes 5v to 0v as the pedal moves or something along those lines, as you mentioned as a failsafe. I think it is worth a shot but I expect you will get a pedal correlation code and probably limp mode. Buried in code somewhere are idle speed...

Try Car-part.com. It searches all the salvage yards. I have had some luck with it.

I've been using 1/8" steel plate to patch rusty spots in my h3 frame. The new metal is for sure a little thicker than the factory metal I am welding it to in most spots. I would guess it is 14 Guage by itself but gets doubled up in many spots. Also inside the frame there many internal...

Pass door: 9/10 condition. Yellow in color. $50 Rear cargo door. Black in color. $150 cash only no shipping, local pickup in metro Detroit. Downsizing garages and can't keep all my spare parts.

Missing front seat adjustment handles, cargo nets, rear seat cupholder. Manual block cloth. $250 cash local pickup metro detroit. No shipping.

While pressure washing the underside of the frame I noticed I "pressure washed" some of the "frame" away around the rear leaf shackle mounts. I ended up cutting all the rust away and replacing the frame and mounts with universal DOM bushings with grease fittings. The boxed frame seems...

Grab the code off the lock on the rack, it will be sp1 sp2 sp3 sp4 or sp5. Then order a pair of matching keys on ebay. I think they are $10 to $15 a pair