2009 H3 Transmission fluid leaking

[SGT-Wright]

Hi Mike,

I have a 2009 H3 Base/Lux, 60368 miles. Trans fluid was flushed/replaced Feb 27 2012 with "Valvoline MaxLife Automatic Transmission Fluid". The transmission has never leaked a drop or had any problems untill now. The last few days I started to feel a little weakness in power and shutering during acceleration. At first I thought my fuel injectors were starting to plug a little since I ran the tank really low then I first felt the shuddering shortly after refueling. I added a bottle of Chevron Fuel system cleaner, and nothing changed. I figured it needed a few days to work so I kept driving it. Nothing improved, and the slight shuddering turned into more of a vibration at 60 Mph. Today I drove to work and back, and on my way home I could hear a slight squeeking at low speed while going up hill that was matching speed. After I got home I saw a couple drops hanging from my UCP just below the driver side of the transmission. I opened the hood and started the engine and checked the trans leven dipstick. The level was showing at the full/hot level and looked clean with no burnt smells. I pulled up on some ramps to look underneath. I saw some fluid hanging on the trans cover bolts close to where the shifter conects into the side of the case. This was the only location of fluid showing. I turned off the engine and looked some more then after 5 min the fluid started to drip freely to make a 4" spot on the driveway. The vehile is now parked back level with a rag tucked on the UCP to catch fluid. I took some pics of the leak for clarification. This seems to be the very begining of the leak as there is no signs of leaks splattered along the bottom of the vehicle yet.

I want to take this to my local Hummer dealer all ready educated on what is most likely wrong so they don't try to get out of any warrenty work and charge me a lot of money. I believe this should be covered under the powertrain warranty, but please correct me if I am wrong. Also should I drive it to the dealer and risk damage? Towing could be expensive since it is like 30 miles away.

Thanks Mike for all your help in this forum,
Jason

 

[SGT-Wright]

Here are the Pics of the leak...

 

[hummech]

Hello Jason,
it sounds like the front drive shaft to me. we have had a few that have been towed in for this problem with the front diff bearing having a issue and they feel the vibration in the vehicle and then it will take out the front half of the Tcase. i would SLOWLY...drive the Hummer in high lock and see if it gets worse or better. normally if it was a engine misfire or engine related you would have a check engine light on.

let me know,
mike s.

 

[LagunaH1]

...

 

[SGT-Wright]

The driver side shaft and seal was replaced about 10000 miles ago from leaking. It has recently started to leak again, it is wet with oil but not dripping freely yet. Here is a pic.

Do you think the vibration might have loosened the pan gasket? It looks like that is the only place the fluid is coming from. Just around the seam and around the first two bolts. I am itching to put a wrench on them and tighten them, but I dont want to leave any marks on the bolts so the dealer can say they were tampered with.

 

[alrock]

By tightening the bolts (they don't need much torque, it's an aluminium pan that you don't want to distort) you won't be "tampering" with your truck. You are allowed to do your own changes and maintenance. If it is a loose bolt you can fix it with a quick spin of a wrench. It could also be a broken gasket, debris in the gasket, etc. which would have been caused, or should have been addressed, when they transmission fluid was changed if they dropped the pan. But if they just did a flush then the pan may have never been dropped and this could be an unrelated issue.

When I dropped my transmission pan the gasket was dry and brittle and there was no way it was going to form a good seal ever again, though my truck was an 07 with 95,000 miles. If the pan was dropped at that service a new gasket should have been put on.

I would get that axle shaft seal replaced, whether under the truck warranty or parts warranty.

 

[SGT-Wright]

They did not drop the pan. They hooked up to the lines and did the fill while draining machine.

This is what I woke up to this morning.



It never leaked a single drop till yesterday... Arghhhhh

 

[SGT-Wright]

I just put a socket wrench on the bolts to check the tightness. They were loose.... What is the torq spec for those transmission pan bolts. Being an aluminum housing I dont want to over tighten them. I wonder why they were as loose as they are now? Could the vibration have caused this?

 

[Chook]

.... What is the torq spec for those transmission pan bolts.

From H3 2007 Electronic Technical Manual "Tighten the oil pan to transmission case bolts alternately and evenly to 16 N.m (12lb ft)."​

 

[SGT-Wright]

All bolts are tightened to 12lb ft now. How did they loosen themselves up? Checked the level cold, looked good. Drove around 10 min. Checked hot level, looks good. The chirping sound at low RPM going up hill is still the same, Did not go to freeway speed to see if vibration changed.
The 3' x 4' leak on my driveway did not seem to lower the fluid level noticebly. I guess a little goes a long way. I cleaned up the leaky area of all visible ATF, and put a big piece of cardboard underneath to see if it drips anymore. Guess I should schedule a trip to the dealer next week. Still not sure if I should drive or get a tow. I guess if it breaks more on the way there, the warrenty will fix it anyways. :roll:

 

[Scarsman]

The squeaking that matches your speed sounds like a universal joint in a driveline, to me. I think you'll be fine to drive it in. That could also cause vibration if is bad enough.

As for the bolts, who knows. They could have been not torqued properly from the factory, the gasket could have shrunk a little, etc.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk

 

[SGT-Wright]

Good idea Scarsman. I took the rig to Less Schwab to rebalance the tires to help with the vibration. Left front was way out. While the rig was up on the lift we checked everything we could put our hands on and found the rear driveline U-joint trashed on the end by the transfer case. It is soo bad I think I will have it towed to the stealership. I think my AAA should cover that. I will let the shop do the warranty work. Why did the u-joint go bad at only 60350 miles? Why is the left CV axel leaking again after ~10000 miles? What else should I insist they look at while I am at the dealers shop? Anyone have theese issues too?

 

[alrock]

CV axle seal - based on my experience I would replace this part any time the axle is removed. The seals will last a good while if static but seem to fail very quickly if the axle is removed and reinserted. I am now carrying the seals with my trail kit just for this reason.

U-joints - I think you got normal wear and tear. I would check both ends of front driveshaft

Also, to check at the dealer: motor mounts, diff crossmember, side mounts for front diff. These are all rubbery things that fail especially if you've wheeled your truck.

 

[hummech]

sorry, i was out for a while, that U-joint hitting the T-case is what i was talking about in my earlier post. i hope they checked the front diff and replaced the whole front driveshaft for this issue.

 

[SGT-Wright]

I think they replaced just the seal on the front, not the whole axel. Now, a few days after the repairs I looked underneath and see fluid on the rear yolk from the transfer case. Is there a seal that could have ben damaged when they replaced the u-joint?
How is the best way to troubleshoot driveline problems? Hold the brake and slowly accelerate under load and listen and feel for clunks? Also, what is a normal amount of body squeak? I saw the service buliton for replacing the body mount bushings, and was wondering if that should be done under warrenty or just a recomendation that I would have to pay for.
Thanks

 

[Scarsman]

I think they replaced just the seal on the front, not the whole axel. Now, a few days after the repairs I looked underneath and see fluid on the rear yolk from the transfer case. Is there a seal that could have ben damaged when they replaced the u-joint?

I think hummech thought that your bad u-joint was causing the yoke to hit the trasfer case, and if so was hoping that they replaced the whole driveline, not the axle. As for the oil you now see, yes, there is a seal for the output shaft. I'm not sure what style yoke the H3s have on the output shaft, but if it is the kind that slides out of the transfer case, it may have been damaged when they put it back in.

How is the best way to troubleshoot driveline problems? Hold the brake and slowly accelerate under load and listen and feel for clunks?

The way I have always done it is to park on level ground and put the parking brake on. Put it in neutral and crawl under it. Grab the drivelines near the u-joints and turn them back and forth and try to lift them up and down. Look and feel for and movement in the u-joints while you do this. Also, look at the joint where the cup meets the center part of the u-joint for any signs of dark red dust coming out. I have seen some where they still felt tight but the grease was all dried out and they were rusty inside and starting to squeak.

Also, what is a normal amount of body squeak? I saw the service buliton for replacing the body mount bushings, and was wondering if that should be done under warrenty or just a recomendation that I would have to pay for.
Thanks

Hope that helps some.

 

[H3slate]

I have found that some body squeak will go away if you clean the body mounts well. Mud seems to get up there and cause the squeaking.

The rear drive shaft does slide out of the transfer case and the seal can be damaged by removing and reinstalling of the drive shaft.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[Dennis]

The driver side shaft and seal was replaced about 10000 miles ago from leaking. It has recently started to leak again, it is wet with oil but not dripping freely yet. Here is a pic.
View attachment 6084
.

Well, it's time for me..Mine I just discovered this morning left me a spot of oil on the floor of the garage..sure enough it's leaking out the seal like in this picture..Fortunately I have a warranty left to get it fixed..hope they get it right the first time..

 

[Dennis]

Well, it's time for me..Mine I just discovered this morning left me a spot of oil on the floor of the garage..sure enough it's leaking out the seal like in this picture..Fortunately I have a warranty left to get it fixed..hope they get it right the first time..

Done....Part (Seal) was $19.00 and labor was $240.00, plus a quart of Castrol Syntec Lube for $18.00...The Extended Warranty has more than paid for itself.

 

[amrg]

Ive recently done it out of warranty on my 06 h3 at roughly 60k miles. Now on my 09 h3, i noticed a leak just earlier today as i was measuring the exhaust tubing in order to put an electric cutout. Truck has 55k miles atm. Luckily i still have two months left on warranty!