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H3 A week before Moab...Do I have a serious problem?!

EPAlpha

Member
Messages
19
Location
Texas
Sorry if this is covered in another thread, but my mechanical ignorance doesn't know what to search for.

Quick back story: Last significant off-road excursion was this past President's Day to Monticello Canyon in NM. Nothing intense, but a lot of H2O driving (again, nothing too deep as we had a Liberty with us and he made it fine). When I got home that evening, there was a slight burning smell coming from the front passenger side (outside of the vehicle). I gave it the smell test the rest of that week, then jumped under the following weekend. It looked like oil (or something) sprayed out of the passenger side catalytic converter (CC), but I couldn't find any issues. Again, kept a nose on it and the burning smell subsided, no further issues.

Fast forward to today, I finally got a chance to install my UCP just in time for my Moab trip next Saturday. When I got under, I still had the oil-ish spray marks above the CC from before (no worse). Pulled off the transfer case skid plate and...TA-DA...some sludge was resting on it...also noticed a little of it on the cross member as well. I look up at the transfer case and see what I think is the origin of my oil-ish (possible transfer case fluid) spray coming from the front seal of the transfer case. I wiped some of the sludge out to get a better look and snapped a few photos. I haven't had any noticeable drips left on the drive way over the last 6 weeks. But all I can figure is that the fluid dripped on the axle, which flung the fluid on passenger side CC.

IMG_20140301_162616616 (800x450).jpgIMG_20140301_162638337 (800x450).jpgIMG_20140301_162703416 (800x450).jpgIMG_20140301_162738757 (800x450).jpg

I'm planning on taking it in Monday for a sanity check, but how worried do I need to be? Any clues on what the issue is? How long to fix? Is it something that can wait (ie is Moab still do-able)? Any and all thoughts/suggestions are GREATLY appreciated!

PS - And I just bought new shoes for him on Friday (Cooper ST Maxx 305/70R16), which I LOVE so far ;)
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Chek the front driveshaft. GM calls it a "propeller" shaft. It has a cv joint on the rear end of it, where it bolts to the t-case. Pull it out and check the rubber boot that sits inside a little metal cup. The goo you are seeing is probably grease from the cv boot...and that's why it doesn't drip. You can also opt to upgrade it with an aftermarket Cardan-joint shaft which gets rid of the troublesome rubber-booted type CV. Here's a pic of the two side-by-side....
newshaft-4.JPG

The area you need to check is inside that little metal cup (top shaft in the photo). You might be able to look up there with a flashlight and inspect the boot for rips. It very common to actually see the balls of the CV joint, fully exposed and rusted from the elements with pieces of the boot completely missing! A new stock shaft is around $250, and an aftermarket shaft runs $350 to $500.
 
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EPAlpha

Member
Messages
19
Location
Texas
4speed, you are so wise...like a miniature Buddha, covered in hair ;) I actually noticed the rubber boot yesterday and should've given it more attention. I crawled back under a little while ago and...BINGO...you totally called it. Boot is torn, which I figure is MUCH better news than a transfer case leak. I feel pretty confident that it tore back in mid-January when I was playing around in NM.

IMG_20140302_110235225_HDR (450x800).jpgIMG_20140302_110259240 (800x450).jpgIMG_20140302_110316522_HDR (800x450).jpgIMG_20140302_110329060 (800x450).jpg

Now, the next question is can I make it through Moab leaving it as is? Obviously, I want to fix it, but I'd much rather do the after-market (AM) shaft you suggested above (please let me know if there are any specific vendors I should use). My thought is that there's no sense in spending money on a part that we know is weak (if I can avoid it). HOWEVER, considering my time crunch, I don't think I can get the AM shaft here and up by next Saturday. If its something that has to get fixed now, then I guess off to the stealership I go tomorrow. Thoughts/suggestions?

Can't thank you enough for help!!!
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
That's pretty cool...wasn't aware you could buy just the joint. I assume that's a cut & weld fix?

Regardless...EPAlfpha, you'll definitely want to fix that before the trip to Moab. Without lube, that joint will generate intense heat on long highway trips. You can remove the shaft entirely and drive around in 4HI-Lock...until you get it fixed.
 

Reloader

Well-Known Member
Messages
413
Location
Montana a free state
Its a complete cv joint assembly. I carry one in my recovery boxes along with a couple of spare u-joint kits so I can rebuild either propellor shaft on the road along as the tube and yokes are OK. To change it you just cut the little retainer band for the boot and drive the joint off with a dead blow hammer. Its held on with a circlip just like a regular CV joint at the wheel. It comes pre packed with lube and a new boot and band clamp. Also fits the Colorado/Canyon so they are readily available. I bout mine from Rock Auto I think for about a C note.
My front shaft CV failed at aboot 25K while coming down Pikes Peak and was stinking pretty bad for a while. I called a buddy of mine who was a certified Hummer tech and he told me that a lot of these blew their seal due to the joint being over packed with lube. He told me to just drive it and get it replaced when I got back to WI. Didnt have a problem getting home 10 days later and the dealer had 2 of them in stock . Retail on the shaft was something like $400 to $450 then but it was covered under warranty.
 

EPAlpha

Member
Messages
19
Location
Texas
Thanks a million, gents! I apologize for sounding like an idiot, but I tried to warn yall...I know very little about cars (think Cole Trickle in Days of Thunder). I can drive'em, but that's about it. Ha! Anyways, I heeded everyone's advice and dropped the truck off at the dealership this morning. My luck only seems to be getting better :/ as I was told that the one mechanic that deals with 'my issue' was out sick today (I have no idea what that means. Hummer Certified?). So, I was guaranteed an estimate no later than noon tomorrow. In essence, I lost a day to BS.

The one thing I'm curious about is, assuming best case scenario, if its just a torn boot and the CV joint is still good, can they just replace the boot? Or should I just insist on a whole new prop shaft? Seems like I read somewhere that GM replaces the entire prop shaft if any of it is busted. Sorry guys, more stupid...
 

Reloader

Well-Known Member
Messages
413
Location
Montana a free state
I have never been able to find a source for just the boot. Had the same problem on my second generation Grand Cherokees also and have replaced a lot of front shafts on first gen Jeep Libertys but I believe you can get a joint kit for those now.
Yes ,GM replaces the complete shaft as they sell no parts to repair it. They also replace the complete CV axle when replacing the front diff output seal as the seal surface on the inner CV joint stub gets grooved and corroded for a warranty repair.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
The labor to change just CV costs more than it does to replace the entire shaft...pretty much applies to everything on the H3.

Also, not sure if you guys are running a Rancho/TC lift but, if you are...then this joint sees much more angle than it does with the stock suspension. The Rancho directions call for you to make a slight adjustment to the boot...an attempt to prevent it from ripping. But, it doesn't always work out that way. I think the joint itself can handle the extra angle...but the boot can't. Just thought I would mention this, so the lifted guys are aware of the issue.
 

EPAlpha

Member
Messages
19
Location
Texas
Update: CRISIS AVERTED!!! MOAB IS A "GO"!!!

Well, the good news cost me about $600 ($412 for the 'propeller' shaft + $150 for labor...shockingly cheaper than expected). Got my ride back this evening. As you all predicted, complete shaft replacement as boot could not be replaced. The new shaft is nice and shiny. Tempted to get my old one back to play with and educate myself on how to replace the cv joint (yes, I want to play with an old rusted shaft...ha).

Anyways, can't thank the collective group enough for educating me on the fly!!! Seriously, I appreciate it. I owe you a few beers if you ever venture to Old El Paso ;)

I'll definitely share some rig and Moab pics soon.
 
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