Bought used front diff,help

[hummedout]

What all I need to replace when installing used front diff?
Both cv axles have to come out?
Is this a simple swap?
New to working on 4wd

 

[Happy Hummer]

As the long as you've got the correct differential with the matching R&P you should be able to replace the bushings (3 I believe) and stab it in. You could swap the axle/CV also.
Good Luck.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I would wiggle the driver's side inner CV to see how much slop there is. And if there's a notable amount (which there may well be), replace the two bearings and maybe even the stub shaft (and maybe the collar) on that side. If it was mine I'd replace all the seals.

 

[hummedout]

Ok,I finally got the cv axles out,(that’s a lot of shit to disassemble just to remove diff.
Where did the tension clip go?I see groove but snap ring is in my boot?one on spline diff side,
Lol.
Next is remove diff
Damn bolts are sheared off to where I can’t get an 11 on but one,looks like it bottomed out on something hard,I’ll. Cut those fuckers before I sweat them,knuckles bleeding,almost got it!
Fuk that they are hammered ,I see it. Go straight to recovery mode and fix ilthem.

Thanks guys to all and anybody giving me knowledge on this.I appreciate the hell out of all y’all.

I’ve got a mechanic/used car facility that needs some electric work and wants to barter!
White flags flyin this time, better let someone experienced do this one.
So what all should I buy to freshen up the differential I have ?h3had 65000 on it n was super clean beside the wreck they got in.
Cv axle seals,?
Had to cut the old u joint /yoke of old diff to get driveshaft out

 

[Jeepwalker]

It would be a good idea to pull off the front cover and look inside. Check out the gears, etc. They're probably in good condition, but you never know. Look the housing over real careful for hairline cracks in the housing since it was in a wreck ...and any possible damage inside.

One wear point on these diffs is the intermediate shaft & bearings on the driver's side. As I mentioned above, slip a new CV into it and lift up/down on the inner CV. If it's nice and snug, or just a little bit of play, then I'd leave it. With 65k miles, more than likely it's fine. I would be more concerned if it had 150k. But I would definitely check it out. The bushings are probably good. You might replace the cross member bushing unless yours has been replaced recently.

It's always a good idea to replace all seals, but then again, with 65k....you could probably leave them. If you do replace them, my suggestion would be factory GM. But if they look good, they probably are. But since it's on the bench....can't hurt to replace. Make sure they don't forget to put new fluid in. Lot of guys get so wrapped up and forget it.. LOL.

This would be a good time to check your truck's upper ball joints. At the very least, squeeze the boots a little and rotate the ball stud stem...work some of that grease in the boot into the joint. Same with the lower ball joints. Rotate the spindles and work grease back into them. If your UCA's are sloppy *At All** ...now is the time to replace them. Same with your truck's front bearing/hubs (use Delco's, esp if you're going with 35's). I know they're not cheap, but the guy is right there. Course you can do those things down the road as well.

Inspect the front driveshaft too. Rotate & move all the joints to work some lube back into them.

 

[JPaul]

Even at 65k, the seals are at a minimum 14 years old and may be hardening up. Best to just replace stuff like that now while you have it out. It'd suck to get it all in just to have to pull half of it back off because a seal decided to start leaking.