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Brakes

KINGSKILL4U

Member
Messages
13
Location
USA
Hello, replacing the master cylinder, brake booster etc. on my 06. I’m struggling to find the correct process for bench bleeding this particular OEM GM 174-1156. Also, is it must to have the ignition on while bleeding the rear brakes? Thank you
 

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H3Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
516
Location
LUXEMBOURG in EU
Hy , i do let the engine run, cause if not, you don't have all the power on break assistant ;) and bleed on all 4, by starting rear right then rear left, front right, and front left al last.
 

KINGSKILL4U

Member
Messages
13
Location
USA
Hy , i do let the engine run, cause if not, you don't have all the power on break assistant ;) and bleed on all 4, by starting rear right then rear left, front right, and front left al last.
Thank you for replying. Do you use the bottle method and do you pump 20-25 times per caliper or do you pump once release the pressure at the caliper, tighten and repeat? Also I read it’s possible to burn out the break assist motor if running longer than 1 minute. Again, appreciate all your help on this. H3’s seem to be particular in how the process is completed.
 

H3Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
516
Location
LUXEMBOURG in EU
If i have no air compressor/pump, i use a buddy to help and it goes simple: Get a transparent tube (silicone ) that fits the bleeding valve and a bottle, fill like a quater break fluid in that bottle before, that prevents air getting in your silicon hose.
Start engine in NEUTRAL !!!!!!!!!! Safety first !!!!!!!

Put the Silicone hose on the valve.
1 push and block break pedal down once
2 Release bleeding-valve
3 close after first fluid gets through.
4 Relaxe break pedal.
repeat as long as you see air in your break fluid

or using a compressor with a fill-up bottle for break fluid.;) goes faster but...for me the result is the same.
 

KINGSKILL4U

Member
Messages
13
Location
USA
If i have no air compressor/pump, i use a buddy to help and it goes simple: Get a transparent tube (silicone ) that fits the bleeding valve and a bottle, fill like a quater break fluid in that bottle before, that prevents air getting in your silicon hose.
Start engine in NEUTRAL !!!!!!!!!! Safety first !!!!!!!

Put the Silicone hose on the valve.
1 push and block break pedal down once
2 Release bleeding-valve
3 close after first fluid gets through.
4 Relaxe break pedal.
repeat as long as you see air in your break fluid

or using a compressor with a fill-up bottle for break fluid.;) goes faster but...for me the result is the same.
Perfect! Thank you. All the while the engine is running correct? One more thing I’d like to pick your brain on if you don’t mind??? Have you bench bled one of these units before? I just purchased a new master cylinder should be here tomorrow. Is bench bleeding this unit the same as any other mc? I see most mc’s have 2 ports not 4. Thank you!!!
 

Reloader

Well-Known Member
No bench bleed. I install and vacuum bleed first with a Vacula professional bleeder. Then key on engine off for peddle pumping with a pusher stick. Then it needs to go to your friendly neighborhood GM dealer to get the unit programmed. Will probably be a minimum of 1 hour labor if all goes well. So bout $200. Some dealers won‘t do it because they want to sell part and do install. I was told that they can be a problem. Especially used ones and reman crap. Where did you get yours?
 

KINGSKILL4U

Member
Messages
13
Location
USA
Excellent advice. Thank you for taking the time to explain. I purchased through Amazon. ACDelco GM original equipment 174-1156. Fingers crossed.
 

KINGSKILL4U

Member
Messages
13
Location
USA
Again, thank you for all your help. I purchased a pneumatic bleeder kit which resolved the issue I was having. Now off to the GM dealer on Thursday. I’m assuming driving w/the abs/tc and brake lights on is more of nuisance than a safety concern correct? I’ll be fine driving until Thursday until I can get the module flashed…? Thank you.
 

H3Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
516
Location
LUXEMBOURG in EU
If done correctly the lights must go off after reset. The brake light + abs should go off if you have filles up brake fluid to the max and no more air inside brake lines
 

KINGSKILL4U

Member
Messages
13
Location
USA
If done correctly the lights must go off after reset. The brake light + abs should go off if you have filles up brake fluid to the max and no more air inside brake lines
Read another thread where someone was explaining how you will receive the same lights if installing a new ABS module without it being programmed by GM. Wasn’t a question I asked, but something I had read. May have been regarding the H2’s. I do have an appointment Thursday. They are willing to do the work, but did mention it’s a lengthy process. Usually an hour’s time, but in some cases 2hrs. I wouldn’t doubt there may be some air trapped inside. Pedal is solid and I did have a continuous stream of fluid at each wheel. Even with the pneumatic bleeder it took quite a while to complete the process.
 

H3Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
516
Location
LUXEMBOURG in EU
Read another thread where someone was explaining how you will receive the same lights if installing a new ABS module without it being programmed by GM. Wasn’t a question I asked, but something I had read. May have been regarding the H2’s. I do have an appointment Thursday. They are willing to do the work, but did mention it’s a lengthy process. Usually an hour’s time, but in some cases 2hrs. I wouldn’t doubt there may be some air trapped inside. Pedal is solid and I did have a continuous stream of fluid at each wheel. Even with the pneumatic bleeder it took quite a while to complete the process.
that's probably sure with the ABS Module.
 

KINGSKILL4U

Member
Messages
13
Location
USA
GM cleared the lights with programming the ABS module. Total cost $145 USD. No air trapped in the system. Vacuum bled is the way to go with these units. All is well. I appreciate all your help. Big thank you to Reloader and H3Hummer. Best.
 
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