Brakes

[KINGSKILL4U]

Hello, replacing the master cylinder, brake booster etc. on my 06. I’m struggling to find the correct process for bench bleeding this particular OEM GM 174-1156. Also, is it must to have the ignition on while bleeding the rear brakes? Thank you

 

[H3Hummer]

Hy , i do let the engine run, cause if not, you don't have all the power on break assistant and bleed on all 4, by starting rear right then rear left, front right, and front left al last.

 

[KINGSKILL4U]

Hy , i do let the engine run, cause if not, you don't have all the power on break assistant and bleed on all 4, by starting rear right then rear left, front right, and front left al last.

Thank you for replying. Do you use the bottle method and do you pump 20-25 times per caliper or do you pump once release the pressure at the caliper, tighten and repeat? Also I read it’s possible to burn out the break assist motor if running longer than 1 minute. Again, appreciate all your help on this. H3’s seem to be particular in how the process is completed.

 

[H3Hummer]

If i have no air compressor/pump, i use a buddy to help and it goes simple: Get a transparent tube (silicone ) that fits the bleeding valve and a bottle, fill like a quater break fluid in that bottle before, that prevents air getting in your silicon hose.
Start engine in NEUTRAL !!!!!!!!!! Safety first !!!!!!!

Put the Silicone hose on the valve.
1 push and block break pedal down once
2 Release bleeding-valve
3 close after first fluid gets through.
4 Relaxe break pedal.
repeat as long as you see air in your break fluid

or using a compressor with a fill-up bottle for break fluid. goes faster but...for me the result is the same.

 

[KINGSKILL4U]

If i have no air compressor/pump, i use a buddy to help and it goes simple: Get a transparent tube (silicone ) that fits the bleeding valve and a bottle, fill like a quater break fluid in that bottle before, that prevents air getting in your silicon hose.
Start engine in NEUTRAL !!!!!!!!!! Safety first !!!!!!!

Put the Silicone hose on the valve.
1 push and block break pedal down once
2 Release bleeding-valve
3 close after first fluid gets through.
4 Relaxe break pedal.
repeat as long as you see air in your break fluid

or using a compressor with a fill-up bottle for break fluid. goes faster but...for me the result is the same.

Perfect! Thank you. All the while the engine is running correct? One more thing I’d like to pick your brain on if you don’t mind??? Have you bench bled one of these units before? I just purchased a new master cylinder should be here tomorrow. Is bench bleeding this unit the same as any other mc? I see most mc’s have 2 ports not 4. Thank you!!!

 

[Reloader]

No bench bleed. I install and vacuum bleed first with a Vacula professional bleeder. Then key on engine off for peddle pumping with a pusher stick. Then it needs to go to your friendly neighborhood GM dealer to get the unit programmed. Will probably be a minimum of 1 hour labor if all goes well. So bout $200. Some dealers won‘t do it because they want to sell part and do install. I was told that they can be a problem. Especially used ones and reman crap. Where did you get yours?

 

[KINGSKILL4U]

Excellent advice. Thank you for taking the time to explain. I purchased through Amazon. ACDelco GM original equipment 174-1156. Fingers crossed.

 

[H3Hummer]

ACDelco is always the best choice for our rigs

 

[KINGSKILL4U]

Again, thank you for all your help. I purchased a pneumatic bleeder kit which resolved the issue I was having. Now off to the GM dealer on Thursday. I’m assuming driving w/the abs/tc and brake lights on is more of nuisance than a safety concern correct? I’ll be fine driving until Thursday until I can get the module flashed…? Thank you.

 

[H3Hummer]

If done correctly the lights must go off after reset. The brake light + abs should go off if you have filles up brake fluid to the max and no more air inside brake lines

 

[KINGSKILL4U]

If done correctly the lights must go off after reset. The brake light + abs should go off if you have filles up brake fluid to the max and no more air inside brake lines

Read another thread where someone was explaining how you will receive the same lights if installing a new ABS module without it being programmed by GM. Wasn’t a question I asked, but something I had read. May have been regarding the H2’s. I do have an appointment Thursday. They are willing to do the work, but did mention it’s a lengthy process. Usually an hour’s time, but in some cases 2hrs. I wouldn’t doubt there may be some air trapped inside. Pedal is solid and I did have a continuous stream of fluid at each wheel. Even with the pneumatic bleeder it took quite a while to complete the process.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Did you do it, or are you having a shop (or buddy) do it?

 

[KINGSKILL4U]

Did you do it, or are you having a shop (or buddy) do it?

Completed the work myself over the weekend.

 

[H3Hummer]

Read another thread where someone was explaining how you will receive the same lights if installing a new ABS module without it being programmed by GM. Wasn’t a question I asked, but something I had read. May have been regarding the H2’s. I do have an appointment Thursday. They are willing to do the work, but did mention it’s a lengthy process. Usually an hour’s time, but in some cases 2hrs. I wouldn’t doubt there may be some air trapped inside. Pedal is solid and I did have a continuous stream of fluid at each wheel. Even with the pneumatic bleeder it took quite a while to complete the process.

that's probably sure with the ABS Module.

 

[KINGSKILL4U]

GM cleared the lights with programming the ABS module. Total cost $145 USD. No air trapped in the system. Vacuum bled is the way to go with these units. All is well. I appreciate all your help. Big thank you to Reloader and H3Hummer. Best.

 

[harleyclassic2]

Hello, replacing the master cylinder, brake booster etc. on my 06. I’m struggling to find the correct process for bench bleeding this particular OEM GM 174-1156. Also, is it must to have the ignition on while bleeding the rear brakes? Thank you

Hello, I have the same exact problem, 2006 H3, bought the new brake master from Amazon, but can't for the life of me get the brakes working. Able to get stopping from front, but no way rears. Can you please tell me how exactly you did this ? Thanks you

 

[alrock]

Hello, I have the same exact problem, 2006 H3, bought the new brake master from Amazon, but can't for the life of me get the brakes working. Able to get stopping from front, but no way rears. Can you please tell me how exactly you did this ? Thanks you

did you read through the thread, including post #6? Please share what steps you are taking and exactly what isn't working. Pedal doesn't move, pedal moves but nothing happens, brakes are barely working, etc.

 

[harleyclassic2]

did you read through the thread, including post #6? Please share what steps you are taking and exactly what isn't working. Pedal doesn't move, pedal moves but nothing happens, brakes are barely working, etc.

The latest code says:
C0131: ABS/TSC Pressure Circuit Malfunction
C0110: ABS - Pump Motor Circuit malfunction.

Prior to this I had replaced the Brake Master Cylinder part ONLY from GM -- note it is just the master cylinder, not the other components like accumulator, reservoir, pump, power brake booster, gaskets, plunger, bolts etc etc etc. and more importantly have not replaced the Control module--its still the original.
Hummer bleeding procedure. Also replaced the calipers. No line leaks.
This worked for a while and then one fine day lost the rear brakes again.

Further compounding the process, the front brake master cylinder port is now stripped and planning on helicoil repair.
Based on the above it may be time to buy a used complete master cylinder assembly. I could transfer the control module from the old one or get it programmed.
What do you all think ?