Drive Shaft Snapped, Sitting in parking lot

[Largohummer]

For several months, I have heard some clanking and viewed rpm bouncing when I slow from about 10-15 mph to a complete stop. I just got finished cleaning the maf sensor and throttle body per a great forum write-up. I drove the truck around for a few minutes and noticed that the rpm wasn't bouncing any more when I came to a stop and thought I fixed the issue. 2-3 minutes latter, i noticed something strange and hard to describe. I parked the car, put it in reverse, and then heard a few loud sounds, truck would not back up. Put it back in park, and the truck rolled forward, so I applied the parking brake. Got underneath and saw that the drive shaft was on the ground towards the rear. See pics. What do you think happened that caused this? Right now, its just sitting in a parking lot. I appreciate your thoughts on this and where to go from here. Thanks

 

[Ghostbuster]

:gaah:

here comes another recall from GM:giggle:

 

[Panzer07]

Hahaha wow that's wild


Torres

 

[Largohummer]

Any idea what happened?

 

[digglesworth]

hmmm looks like a broken u-joint cant quite tell from the pics... get some more pics of the end that joins together with the u-joint. you can just pull the shaft out of the transfer case from there. the problem is thst youll lose fluid outta the tail of the t-case. i would think you could put it in 4hi lock and limp home if you had a way to keep the fluid in your t-case

 

[ReconH3]

Check inside u-joint cup to see it there is any lube left.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

 

[Largohummer]

There is a lot of blackish green grease on the front left shock and the area around it. There is nothing like this on the passenger side.

 

[Largohummer]

Would a broken ujoint at the transfer case cause the drive shaft to snap at the end toward the rear wheels?

 

[SedonaBound]

Any idea what happened?

Yeah, I do. You drove "for several months" with a clanking u-joint. Looks like the yoke is trashed and you'll need to find a serviceable entire propshaft assembly instead of $50 u-joint. Sorry to be blunt. Don't ignore clanking in a vehicle unless your in a covered wagon or a box car.

 

[Largohummer]

No worries about being blunt. Now, just trying to fix the problem. Would I be able to drive this less than a mile in high lock or is this something I will need to tow? I am looking for propshaft assembly online for the H3... is there a different name for it? Is it that I need a new rear drive shaft and ujoint?

 

[Best4x4]

Looks like the U-Joint failed. Pretty normal to fail especially since they don't have any zerk fittings. Since it broke in the parking lot I'd say just have a new U-Joint installed.

 

[Largohummer]

Would I need a new drive shaft as well? It appears that it stripped out of the u joint based on one of the pictures.

 

[cgalpha08]

I would say...yes new driveshaft, original looks to be in bad shape. Also you can lock the t case in 4 hi and drive home in front wheel drive. Provided there are no other issues with your rear axle.

 

[Best4x4]

Looks like one of the ears where the u-joint goes is toast aka new driveshaft time. Might be worth calling Tom Woods Driveshafts. He can make u one with better u-joints.

 

[ReconH3]

Better High Angle Driveline. They make Hummer H3 specific shaft with double card and if you want. Only one out here that do that. I went through two different driveshaft makers, including Tom Woods, until Bebe told me to contact High Angle Driveline. They're the only ones that got it right.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

 

[4speedfunk]

If you want to drive it without a rear shaft...grab some duct tape and tape up the output hole on the t-case. This is a temporary fix to get u to a driveline shop. Unlike the front shaft...the rear uses a slip yoke, so it will dump its fluid without a shaft installed.

Or just pull the shaft out and take it to any local driveline shop. A new one should take about two hours and cost $250 or so....very simple stuff. Chalk the wheels as PARK will be disabled without either shaft in place.

The tubing used at the factory is an oddball size so you may have to junk it and simply replace the entire shaft with a new one. Make it from standard size parts so you want have any issues in the future. Reuse your slip-yoke, and install grease-able u-joints and it should last forever.

 

[Largohummer]

Should I be able to remove the shaft and reinstall it myself? The u joint seems like it will be a little tricky while working on it under the truck. How should I go about removing the drive shaft from the transfer case?

 

[4speedfunk]

Grab. Pull.

 

[Happy Hummer]

Lol. Take it to a drive line shop and they will fix it. The yoke is straight forward.

Chris

 

[alrock]

BTW, it also sounds like you have a torn CV boot and it has flung out its grease on the shock and surrounding area. You'll need a new boot or a new CV axle. I'd just get a Cardone Select CV axle assy from Rockauto for $40. While you're there you'll want to replace that axle seal as well.

 

[Airborne]

Grab. Pull.

Always love CJ's posts!