Electrical problem

[metdetdist]

Hello everyone. New at this and need help or suggestions. I have an 2008 H3 with 23,000 miles and have some problems. I hardly get to use it, thus I don't know as much as I should after 4 years. Lately I noticed the LEDs on the radio goes on & off, the dashboard gages go on and off, and on two occasions, the headlights turned off for a period of time. These alternate on & off, in other words my dash may light up, and in turn the radio goes dark and vice versa. After Sandy, they blamed the problem as a salt corrosion problem, but its not the case. Water never entered the H 3, as the water was BELOW the door level AND the dark radio happened before the flood ( the dark dashboard and headlights just starter happening ). They suggested the H 3 should be considered totaled, but its basically running fine other than the electrical problem, which I don't think its releated to the flood at all. Any suggestions ? I hate to give up my Hummer, but I'm worried about future problems. Could it be a factory defect ? How can I figure this out ? Any suggestions ? Another problem: the other day I put the H 3 in reverse to back into the driveway, but it was really dragging in this gear. It felt like the wheels were against the sidewalk, as it stopped the vehicle. In drive I had no problem at all, only in reverse. It lasted for 5 or 6 tries, then like magic I had absolutely no problem backing up. Never had that happened. I appreciate any suggestions. Thank you Ettore metdetdist@aol.com

 

[ArtHummer]

That's definitely some issues with faulty wiring. And if the salt water got in it, it could do allot of damage...
If you have allot of time and some knowledge of working with cars you can take a part your dash and clean all of the connecters. Check all the wires on corrosion and if you see any rewire it. If the corrosion is not to bad, just clean it up really well and spray some wd-40. Also the issue could with the computer, in that case you will need to replace it.

 

[Hunner]

First don't spray WD-40 on electrical connections. You should use something more like this.
http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/lubricants_pg/LPS1.html
Next check your battery connections, OEM are junk.
If like you say about the water level, I don't see how that could be the specific issue. I have driven in salt water on occasion without electrical problems showing up.
Just being in a salt water environment or even with wind driven spray of course could eventually add to the problem depending on how severe but there are lots of people with cars along the shore of the water under the same conditions. I had a vehicle that weathered 7 hurricanes and 5 tropical storms and did not develop electrical problems because of the salt water. Yeah it's possible but more from high water levels than blowing moisture. The first victim is usually the starter when water gets up that high and can migrate from there.
The PCM is sealed but the connections could have intrusion.
If the dealership is confident they can claim it is totaled and certify that to your insurance company then tell them you will accept a total loss payment and buy it back for $1.00! lol

 

[ArtHummer]

Actually WD-40 is multipurpose lubricant and it fights with corrosion. I was using it on connecters and never had any issues with it. Of course you don't want soak the connector in it, just spay enough to clean it. But there are allot of other staff that you can use.
This is from wd-40 website

What does WD-40 Multi-Use Product do?

WD-40 Multi-Use Product fulfills five basic functions:
1. LUBRICATES: The product's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.
2. PENETRATES: WD-40 Multi-Use Product loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.
3. PROTECTS: The product protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.
4. REMOVES: WD-40 Multi-Use Product gets under dirt, grime and grease. Use it to remove gunk from tools, equipment and vehicles. WD-40 Multi-Use Product in liquid form (e.g., gallon) also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of excess bonding material.
5. DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because it displaces moisture, WD-40 Multi-Use Product quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.

http://www.wd40.com/faqs/
http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/corrosion-inhibitor


Look for the connectors that look like that and this could be your problem.

 

[alrock]

I'm putting my money on a loose or poor ground at the battery.

 

[ArtHummer]

Found this video on how to take out the wire out of the wire harness for better cleaning inside of the harness itself.
NOTE: Before doing that, make sure that you write down the diagram of how the wires are attached to a harness so you can put it back to the right spot.

[video=youtube_share;LLKn_5Wqs8g]http://youtu.be/LLKn_5Wqs8g[/video]

 

[Hunner]

It is just my opinion but;
WD-40 at one time many years ago was all the rage. I'm not sure it's the same formula anymore. They do offer some different products in their line to address other issues.
However there are a lot of brand choices for specific applications that do not coat things with an oily film and attract dust to components.
Hopefully those corroded contacts are not a result of using WD-40.
For neglected contacts like those then another product in the LPS line may work better first.
http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/cleaners_pg/CFCFree.html
Use what works for you but shop around to get the right thing.

 

[f5moab]

I DO NOT recommend you taking apart your dash panel until you have done some other very simple steps. For one thing, to obtain access to all the connectors would require quite a few hours and would result in more rattles than you would want to live with! Two reasons for this:
1. You say this happened prior to Sandy, so why a mention of corrosion is baffling me.
2. if the water level was high enough to corrode wires in the dash panel, you would not have anything working since the BCM is NOT water proof and neither are the BCM connectors and it is located in the passenger kick panel, a foot lower then the dash panel.

In addition, the connectors in the engine compartment (lights, engine, etc.) are water proof since they are designed to be subjected to water (same with the PCM and connectors).

I would go with the recommendation on the battery cables. If you can take hold and move them, they are too loose. Best thing to do is go to an RV shop and get some heavy duty "CRIMP" on battery cable connectors and replace the POS factory connectors. A loose battery cable; especially the negative cable will give the symptoms you mention. It could also be a loose ground at either of the two points under the hood (near the battery and on the passenger side) but could be one of the two main grounds inside the vehicle; one on each side under the front kick panels. Make sure those grounds are TIGHT.

If the cable conectors are tight and/or replaced, and the grounds all check out, then it is time to start pulling some connectors. Under the driver side of the dash is a large connector that is the main body to I/P connector, and if it goes that far, PM me and I'll get you the exact location and what to look for.

As for the backup. Was the vehicle subjected to salt water for a while where the water may have got into the brakes. If so, I would suspect the rear park brake drums (located on the inside of the rear discs) these are notorious for locking up at times and will free when backing up a lot easier than free up when moving forward.

As for WD-40, from an engineering perspective it is a garbage fluid that is great for removing moisture but terrible as a lubricant. What lubricant it contains will evaporate in a month or two, and there are hundreds of better lubs out there. As for a moisture remover, it works and for those of us who remember distributor caps, the remedy for removing moisture from under the cap was WD-40. But honestly, I would not use it for anything in this day and age; except possibly to remove moisture from a key cylinder.

 

[deserth3]

Do your lights flash on and off with a bounce or fibration?

Do you have any add ons like roof marker lights or offroad lights?? I'm thinking one possible place to have loose connections are the two connectors that go to the bottom of the fuse and relay circuit board.

OEM marker lights, OEM roof offroad lights and OEM lower grill lights require you to take this apart. When I did mine it wouldn't just lock into the plugs like it's suposed too. I had to remove the plugs from their seats and manualy plug them into the bottom of the board and then put the board back into place.

Now if you decide to go there. Take a long look at the roof marker light instructions in the "tech library" section of this board. Taking the fuse box apart is not for the faint of heart. The fuse/relay board is easily broken and expensive to replace.

 

[metdetdist]

Hello guys. I want to thank all of you for your help and suggestions. I really appreciate it. I'm going to look into all of the suggestions and post the results. It's great to know there are so many Hummer owners out there willing to help out. Thank you all. Ettore

 

[metdetdist]

Do your lights flash on and off with a bounce or fibration?

Do you have any add ons like roof marker lights or offroad lights?? I'm thinking one possible place to have loose connections are the two connectors that go to the bottom of the fuse and relay circuit board.

OEM marker lights, OEM roof offroad lights and OEM lower grill lights require you to take this apart. When I did mine it wouldn't just lock into the plugs like it's suposed too. I had to remove the plugs from their seats and manualy plug them into the bottom of the board and then put the board back into place.

Now if you decide to go there. Take a long look at the roof marker light instructions in the "tech library" section of this board. Taking the fuse box apart is not for the faint of heart. The fuse/relay board is easily broken and expensive to replace.

Hello. No is just happens under any conditions. No joilts required. The first time the radio died out I was setting in the driveway. No off road lights. I'll keep you posted. Thank you so much. Ettore

 

[metdetdist]

Hello, thank you for the reply. The problem began before Sandy, got worst during Sandy. The mechanic is the one that keeps insisting the problem was CAUSED by Sandy instead of seriously looking into it. The water was just below the door, thus I can understand if parts in the lower level, like a starter or brakes being damaged, but I don't think the electrical system could be effected. I could not find traces of water inside the car, only a slight amount of moisture on the passanger side, which could have been caused by wet feet entering the car. He keeps on telling me: " who's the mechanic here, me or you ? " IDIOT ! Thank you for your help. I'll let you know what happenes next. Ettore

 

[ArtHummer]

Water doesn't have to be in the interior. Just a high humidiy climate can cause some corrosion. Good luck finding the problem. And if you will find any, snap some pics.

 

[Can007]

Like Hunner said... take the loss and buy it back for pennies on the dollar. A buddy of mind recently totaled his high-end Porsche and the insurance Co. gave him 60,000. He then bought the Porsche back for 6,000 and sold the engine alone for 12,000. Just something to think about.

 

[deserth3]

Just thought of another thing to check. If you have the tow package, check the wire harness going to the seven pin connector. Some of the harness have been known to rub on the bumper or body. My haress can be seen between the top of the bumper and the body just left of center. This was where mine was rubbing and I had to put some material in there to protect the wires.

If you don't have the tow package. A 4 wire harness is tied up just in front of the rear bumper.

 

[f5moab]

Water doesn't have to be in the interior. Just a high humidiy climate can cause some corrosion. Good luck finding the problem. And if you will find any, snap some pics.

GM tests for extreme high humidity to make sure their connectors will not be affected. For interior connectors, you would need water contact to start the corrosion process. For those outside, well, you have water contact quite a few times during the year even in Moab.

 

[MSC]

If your h3 starts with no problem, I would check the battery ground to the frame and body. If you have a good digital volt meter, check voltage from battery positive to battery ground and then engine ground and then frame ground, if you have no loose or bad ground connections all voltage reading will be the same if not, you just found your problem. If they are like most other vehicles, it should have an engine ground and frame/body ground. As far as cleaning connectors, I would use WD-40 or CRC then use a small brush to clean and coat with dielectric grease and reconnect. As far as your brakes, the rotors most likely has mild surface rust caused by not driving it much. When driving forward your front brakes do about 75% of your braking, in reverse it's less.
I hope this helps.