4speedfunk
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So you've been having issues with your H3 front driveshafts? (Me too). I have installed and ran no less than six different driveshafts, and I thought I would share my findings.
First off...the stock shaft blows. We all know it. But, I will say the stock high-speed 6-ball CV does a great job at cancelling vibes...although anything with a rubber boot is eventually going to fail. Depending on how often you want to perform this task (its simple and cheap)...I would recommend an authentic AAM replacement CV (not Dorman). These run $130 compared to the $60 Dorman unit. IMO, worth the extra dough. If you are running a solid front axle, or a Rancho lift...I would recommend an aftermarket shaft with a cardan style CV, due to the extra angle and/or movement. This is where things get interesting.
3R CV: I have built, sold, and ran several 3R cardan jointed shafts for years. I hated them all. This is the same CV that GM full-size trucks used throughout the 70s & 80s. It is big, clunky, and has too much spring pressure. Also for some reason, the center pins seem to burn up quickly. This may be due to the special H3 flange casting (Chinese) that adapts the 3R cardan to the H3's transfer case. Fort Wayne Driveline currently sells a 3R jointed shaft, and you can also buy the Chinese flange and build your own. This casting is made to fit the H3 t-case flange and does not require an adapter. Whatever the case, I have found some better options.
Tatton 1310 CV: Next I tried a custom shaft sourced from Tatton Driveline in Utah. Great price. Fast service. This shaft uses a 1310 CV with a Ford flange. It requires the use of an adapter which I sell through THORparts. While these shafts come with Spicer u-joints, the castings themselves are not Spicer. Initially this shaft worked great but, I slowly started to develop a high speed vibe after about 5000 miles. So I took it apart and found that the center pin was actually broken, causing mis-alignment within the cardan. Also, I noticed that it was assembled with a mix-match of parts, that may have also contributed to its demise. It did have grease so I know it didn't burn up. I honestly think the cheap no-name castings may have played a part in its failure. Regardless I have no idea what would have broken the center pin like this...perhaps it was hammered together when assembled? My local driveline guy says he's never seen this type of break in 40 years of cardan work.
1310 non-CV: About this time I'm getting fed up with my options. I thought I would try a traditional 2-jointed shaft (like the Outfitter Design shaft). I was very reluctant about this even though I have hardly any angle at all on my front shaft. Its very well know that full-time 4WDs need a CV of some sort...Jeep, Chevy, Ford, Dodge, etc. It doesn't matter...full-time 4WD's get vibes at highway speeds, period. That's why the H3 comes with a 6-ball CV from the factory. So I tossed all this aside and built a new shaft using 1310 joints and the same Ford flange (except without the CV), and the same THORparts adapter. Sure enough...it hums at 65mph, just like a I predicted. If the H3 had a 2WD mode and locking hubs, I would not have an issue with this shaft. But, the full-time arrangement needs a CV at 65 mph. Back to the drawing board.
Spicer 1310 CV: After looking again at the Tatton shaft, I did some investigation and found all the Spicer brand parts to build a simlar shaft. Additionally, I found that the Ford H-yoke has these cool little scallops cast into it that allow better access to the mounting bolts. This is one thing that always frustrated me about the H-yokes that Tatton used...it was hard to get to the bolts. I'm still running the same THORparts adapter flange with this shaft. Once I put it all together...I realized THIS IS THE SHAFT I NEED TO BE RUNNING. I bolted it in and TA-DAH!...my rig has never ran smoother. This shaft uses solid (non-serviceable) Spicer u-joints at the cardan, and the center pin is also sealed at the factory...so there are no zirks.
Top to bottom. My all-Spicer 1310 cardan shaft. My disassembled Tatton 1310 cardan shaft. My brand new 1310 non CV shaft. An old stocker I had laying around.
Here's a side-by-side that shows the difference between the H-yokes. The Ford H-yoke has scallops for getting a socket on the mounting bolts. The round H-yoke that Tatton provides, is actually supposed to be used with a different flange yoke that has the bolts threading into it from the backside. So, when used with that flange yoke...the scallops aren't needed. Either H-yoke will work but, since the "hack & tap" uses the Ford flange, it has the mounting bolts installing from the forward side and threading into the t-case flange...so it is meant to be used with this Ford H-yoke. It makes bolt access a breeze...
Another shot of the Ford H-yoke showing what I'm talking about...
All Spicer parts have their name cast into them...
No-name casting. Not sure if this had to do with the broken pin or not...
Broken center pin inside the 1310 CV. Its broken off the piece on the right. The piece on the left is still okay (although it is not Spicer brand). The white thingy is a plastic piece that is used to hold the needles in place. It gets removed when you assembly the CV...
Terminology: Cardan joints consist of three castings. The flange yoke. The H-yoke. The CV yoke. On the Tatton shaft, the broken piece was part of the CV yoke, which unfortunately was welded to the shaft tube. So I had to cut it apart and weld on a new one to fix it. The H-yoke and the Flange yoke were not damaged but, I went with Spicer brand parts, and the scalloped Ford type H-yoke since I had it all apart.
Driveshafts are not rocket science. And there are lots of different ways to skin this cat. Through trial and error, I have finally found the right parts to give me the performance I am wanting on and off road. I would recommend that if anyone is looking for a front shaft, they should either buy the parts themselves and take them to a reputable driveline shop for assembly...or at least make sure the shop is using the parts you specify. I'm not throwing anybody under the bus here. I'm simply reporting my findings. From now on...I will run ONLY Spicer brand parts. Spicer parts are more expensive, and you are not going to get an assembled shaft for $250. I will update this thread with the Spicer part numbers I used.
UPDATE....
Spicer sells many pre-assembled cardan joints but not this one. You must buy them separately. Part numbers and links below...
Spicer #2-28-2867X DSP Ball Stud Yoke
https://www.powertrainindustries.com/story/2-28-2867X?catalog_table=dsp_ball_stud_yokes
Spicer #211543X DSP CV Flange Yoke (2" pilot 3.5" bolt-circle...fits THORparts adapter)
https://www.powertrainindustries.com/story/211543X?catalog_table=dsp_cv_flange_yokes
Spicer #2-26-477 DSP H-flange (Ford type with scallops for bolt access)
https://www.powertrainindustries.com/story/2-26-477?catalog_table=dsp_h_yokes
First off...the stock shaft blows. We all know it. But, I will say the stock high-speed 6-ball CV does a great job at cancelling vibes...although anything with a rubber boot is eventually going to fail. Depending on how often you want to perform this task (its simple and cheap)...I would recommend an authentic AAM replacement CV (not Dorman). These run $130 compared to the $60 Dorman unit. IMO, worth the extra dough. If you are running a solid front axle, or a Rancho lift...I would recommend an aftermarket shaft with a cardan style CV, due to the extra angle and/or movement. This is where things get interesting.
3R CV: I have built, sold, and ran several 3R cardan jointed shafts for years. I hated them all. This is the same CV that GM full-size trucks used throughout the 70s & 80s. It is big, clunky, and has too much spring pressure. Also for some reason, the center pins seem to burn up quickly. This may be due to the special H3 flange casting (Chinese) that adapts the 3R cardan to the H3's transfer case. Fort Wayne Driveline currently sells a 3R jointed shaft, and you can also buy the Chinese flange and build your own. This casting is made to fit the H3 t-case flange and does not require an adapter. Whatever the case, I have found some better options.
Tatton 1310 CV: Next I tried a custom shaft sourced from Tatton Driveline in Utah. Great price. Fast service. This shaft uses a 1310 CV with a Ford flange. It requires the use of an adapter which I sell through THORparts. While these shafts come with Spicer u-joints, the castings themselves are not Spicer. Initially this shaft worked great but, I slowly started to develop a high speed vibe after about 5000 miles. So I took it apart and found that the center pin was actually broken, causing mis-alignment within the cardan. Also, I noticed that it was assembled with a mix-match of parts, that may have also contributed to its demise. It did have grease so I know it didn't burn up. I honestly think the cheap no-name castings may have played a part in its failure. Regardless I have no idea what would have broken the center pin like this...perhaps it was hammered together when assembled? My local driveline guy says he's never seen this type of break in 40 years of cardan work.
1310 non-CV: About this time I'm getting fed up with my options. I thought I would try a traditional 2-jointed shaft (like the Outfitter Design shaft). I was very reluctant about this even though I have hardly any angle at all on my front shaft. Its very well know that full-time 4WDs need a CV of some sort...Jeep, Chevy, Ford, Dodge, etc. It doesn't matter...full-time 4WD's get vibes at highway speeds, period. That's why the H3 comes with a 6-ball CV from the factory. So I tossed all this aside and built a new shaft using 1310 joints and the same Ford flange (except without the CV), and the same THORparts adapter. Sure enough...it hums at 65mph, just like a I predicted. If the H3 had a 2WD mode and locking hubs, I would not have an issue with this shaft. But, the full-time arrangement needs a CV at 65 mph. Back to the drawing board.
Spicer 1310 CV: After looking again at the Tatton shaft, I did some investigation and found all the Spicer brand parts to build a simlar shaft. Additionally, I found that the Ford H-yoke has these cool little scallops cast into it that allow better access to the mounting bolts. This is one thing that always frustrated me about the H-yokes that Tatton used...it was hard to get to the bolts. I'm still running the same THORparts adapter flange with this shaft. Once I put it all together...I realized THIS IS THE SHAFT I NEED TO BE RUNNING. I bolted it in and TA-DAH!...my rig has never ran smoother. This shaft uses solid (non-serviceable) Spicer u-joints at the cardan, and the center pin is also sealed at the factory...so there are no zirks.
Top to bottom. My all-Spicer 1310 cardan shaft. My disassembled Tatton 1310 cardan shaft. My brand new 1310 non CV shaft. An old stocker I had laying around.
Here's a side-by-side that shows the difference between the H-yokes. The Ford H-yoke has scallops for getting a socket on the mounting bolts. The round H-yoke that Tatton provides, is actually supposed to be used with a different flange yoke that has the bolts threading into it from the backside. So, when used with that flange yoke...the scallops aren't needed. Either H-yoke will work but, since the "hack & tap" uses the Ford flange, it has the mounting bolts installing from the forward side and threading into the t-case flange...so it is meant to be used with this Ford H-yoke. It makes bolt access a breeze...
Another shot of the Ford H-yoke showing what I'm talking about...
All Spicer parts have their name cast into them...
No-name casting. Not sure if this had to do with the broken pin or not...
Broken center pin inside the 1310 CV. Its broken off the piece on the right. The piece on the left is still okay (although it is not Spicer brand). The white thingy is a plastic piece that is used to hold the needles in place. It gets removed when you assembly the CV...
Terminology: Cardan joints consist of three castings. The flange yoke. The H-yoke. The CV yoke. On the Tatton shaft, the broken piece was part of the CV yoke, which unfortunately was welded to the shaft tube. So I had to cut it apart and weld on a new one to fix it. The H-yoke and the Flange yoke were not damaged but, I went with Spicer brand parts, and the scalloped Ford type H-yoke since I had it all apart.
Driveshafts are not rocket science. And there are lots of different ways to skin this cat. Through trial and error, I have finally found the right parts to give me the performance I am wanting on and off road. I would recommend that if anyone is looking for a front shaft, they should either buy the parts themselves and take them to a reputable driveline shop for assembly...or at least make sure the shop is using the parts you specify. I'm not throwing anybody under the bus here. I'm simply reporting my findings. From now on...I will run ONLY Spicer brand parts. Spicer parts are more expensive, and you are not going to get an assembled shaft for $250. I will update this thread with the Spicer part numbers I used.
UPDATE....
Spicer sells many pre-assembled cardan joints but not this one. You must buy them separately. Part numbers and links below...
Spicer #2-28-2867X DSP Ball Stud Yoke
https://www.powertrainindustries.com/story/2-28-2867X?catalog_table=dsp_ball_stud_yokes
Spicer #211543X DSP CV Flange Yoke (2" pilot 3.5" bolt-circle...fits THORparts adapter)
https://www.powertrainindustries.com/story/211543X?catalog_table=dsp_cv_flange_yokes
Spicer #2-26-477 DSP H-flange (Ford type with scallops for bolt access)
https://www.powertrainindustries.com/story/2-26-477?catalog_table=dsp_h_yokes
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