gfbh3t
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 140
- Location
- Lockport, NY
can l drive with out it. just lost it past dayton
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front driveshaft
- Thread starter gfbh3t
- Start date
08SolarFlareH3
Super Swampers
- Messages
- 2,525
- Location
- Finger Lakes, NY
Yes, you can drive w/o the front drive shaft.
*edit,
Almost forgot to mention you will have to drive in 4HI locked.
*edit,
Almost forgot to mention you will have to drive in 4HI locked.
Last edited:
gfbh3t
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 140
- Location
- Lockport, NY
left my spare at home need fourspeedfunk phone number
MTUH3
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 315
- Location
- Plymouth, MI
Yes you can, but you cannot in 4 hi Open. And you may have trouble gettting into 4 hi lock.
Turn the truck off, turn the key to acc, push the 4 hi lock button, once the light is solid, turn the truck on.
If you try to go from 4 hi open, or 4 lo lock, the missing driveshaft will cause the t-case to default to 4 hi open, which will send all the power to the front (missing drive shaft)
Turn the truck off, turn the key to acc, push the 4 hi lock button, once the light is solid, turn the truck on.
If you try to go from 4 hi open, or 4 lo lock, the missing driveshaft will cause the t-case to default to 4 hi open, which will send all the power to the front (missing drive shaft)
4speedfunk
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 4,250
- Location
- Tardville
No sweat...I got ahold of him. I'm gonna meet him at the driveline shop and get him taken care of.
gfbh3t
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 140
- Location
- Lockport, NY
back on the road all fixed heading to bad lands thanks 4speedfunk
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
- Messages
- 9,506
- Location
- Meridian, ID
was that driveshaft stock or aftermarket?
gfbh3t
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 140
- Location
- Lockport, NY
aftermarket I did not grease the cv joint enough
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
- Messages
- 9,506
- Location
- Meridian, ID
Gotcha, I was wondering because rancho lifted rigs usually destroy the front driveshaft because the pinion angle is further then the stock one can handle. So an aftermarket one would be necessary.
M
MUTAINT
Guest
Geno, glad to see ya got back on the road to Wheeling. Say "hey" to james (paladine) for me when you see him!
4speedfunk
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 4,250
- Location
- Tardville
Geno is not the first guy to suffer this problem. I did (or acutally "didn't do") the exact same thing , and had the exact same problem. Not only that...it occurred at about the exact same milage. These driveshafts are basically an old-school 80's GM truck front driveshaft, and they require frequent lubrication. But, unlike the 80s stuff...we can't shut off the hubs, and transfer case. Because the H3 is full-time 4WD...that driveshaft is spinning all the time. Long-distance treks at 70mph will certainly kill the center-pin if it goes dry. After running (and burning up) several of these cardan joints...I finally came to this realization...LUBE is everything. You can't over-lube it. Once I figured this out...my driveline has been very reliable and smooth as glass. Additionally...the center-pin is NOT a "sealed unit", so when you slop it thru the mud, drive thru rivers, power-wash it, etc....the grease washes out. A simple 5-6 pumps of grease is all it takes to restore it and make it last forever. I grease mine at every oil change (5,000miles) and also before every long-distance trip, and after every mud-run. It takes just 5 minutes, and makes a huge difference on the longevity.
The biggest problem is accessing and actually squirting the center-pin joint with grease. It requires a grease needle adaptor, and its tough to get up in there and do it...so you tend to blow it off. Big mistake. I'm guilty of this too. I'm working on getting an extended zirk fitting that will allow you to easily lube the center pin with a standard zirk head. Dodge driveshafts came from the factory with this little fitting and I've got one on my own H3. It makes lubing the center-pin as easy as the U-joints. Ironically...the U-joints can go much longer between lubes, (perhaps because they are somewhat sealed at the cups?). Anyway...keep it lubed, and it will last a very long time. In the meantime...I'll find those little fittings, and when I do...I'll pop one in the mail to Geno. Makes periodic greasing a breeze.
Lastly...if you do ever need one of these repaired, any driveline shop coast-to-coast should have the center-pin rebuild kit in stock. Its a very common part, and a very common repair. When I get the grease fitting dohinky, I'll post some pics.
The biggest problem is accessing and actually squirting the center-pin joint with grease. It requires a grease needle adaptor, and its tough to get up in there and do it...so you tend to blow it off. Big mistake. I'm guilty of this too. I'm working on getting an extended zirk fitting that will allow you to easily lube the center pin with a standard zirk head. Dodge driveshafts came from the factory with this little fitting and I've got one on my own H3. It makes lubing the center-pin as easy as the U-joints. Ironically...the U-joints can go much longer between lubes, (perhaps because they are somewhat sealed at the cups?). Anyway...keep it lubed, and it will last a very long time. In the meantime...I'll find those little fittings, and when I do...I'll pop one in the mail to Geno. Makes periodic greasing a breeze.
Lastly...if you do ever need one of these repaired, any driveline shop coast-to-coast should have the center-pin rebuild kit in stock. Its a very common part, and a very common repair. When I get the grease fitting dohinky, I'll post some pics.
midnightgravity
Active Member
- Messages
- 39
- Location
- Austin, TX
My U joint went out on me,. . . .Luckily in a middle of nowhere trucker station. The mechanic told me that because it was sealed I had no way of greasing the unit. so therefore the stock sealed u joint just needs to be replaced with an upgraded one with a port for grease. . He also pointed out that the front stock tie rods don't have a port for grease either, so to watch for that area going out in the future. . . He replaced the rear drive shaft u joint near the center with an upgraded u joint with a seal and greased it, then replaced what ever transfer case fluid I had lost... .
After he told me this I inspected the rest of the undercarriage to see that the front U joint looks sort of covered in black soot. Wonder if that u joint is going out also. . my 2008 h3 has already gone through a lot already. :\
- Rebuilt Transmission
- New tensioner pulley
- New belt
- New alternator
- New Battery
- New throttle body
- New water pump
- New Thermostat housing
- replaced BCM
- New o2 sensors
- New refurbished MAF sensor
- Replaced Rear front Ujoint drive shaft.
- New spark plugs
- UPCOMING: Secondary air intake check valve now stuck open.
After he told me this I inspected the rest of the undercarriage to see that the front U joint looks sort of covered in black soot. Wonder if that u joint is going out also. . my 2008 h3 has already gone through a lot already. :\
- Rebuilt Transmission
- New tensioner pulley
- New belt
- New alternator
- New Battery
- New throttle body
- New water pump
- New Thermostat housing
- replaced BCM
- New o2 sensors
- New refurbished MAF sensor
- Replaced Rear front Ujoint drive shaft.
- New spark plugs
- UPCOMING: Secondary air intake check valve now stuck open.