Front Hub broke off.

[TravisUsmc]

OK so I I broke off the CV joint assembly on my front left tire. The drive for the 4 wheel Hi open.
I know I can drive in 4 Lock high and low. But not in open.
What can I do to fix it and how much will it be about? I'm missing all my bearings. And the cage to keep the Hub in broke in half. I have to make a 600 mile trip home tonight in this truck.
Here are the pictures.

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[alrock]

Moved to the H3 section.

Looks like you broke the CV axle, not the hub. I would recommend not driving it as that stub will flop around and cause more damage.

An aftermarket CV can be had for as little as $40 on Rockauto.com. Labor should be about an hour to change it, if you need to go to shop. Even if you pay up to $200 for a CV to get one right now to get it fixed asap that isn't unreasonable.

If you have to drive it tonight, it would be removing the CV stubs from the axle assembly and plugging the hole to prevent oil leakage and/or foreign objects entering the axle shaft and diff. However, I would not recommend this and I cannot say that the trip cannot be done w/o damaging your H3. Others may chime in differently but I'd rather have it fixed before I take such a long trip (or any trip).

 

[alrock]

Also deleted your duplicate thread. Please use one thread for each topic; you'll get the best and quickest responses that way.

 

[4speedfunk]

That's a broken CV joint...not a hub. Go to NAPA, AutoZone, or whatever and get a new (or rebuilt) half-shaft.

You'll need to remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor. Hang the caliper up out the way so it doesn't get damaged. Then remove the three 13mm (I think) bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle. These can be a bitch, because they loc-tite them at the factory. Make note of the dust shield orientation, as it will come off when you remove the hub...a sharpie works good. This will make sure you get the shield re-installed in the same position.

Normally, at this point you would need to remove the large nut (36mm, I think) in the center of the hub. This will allow you to remove the half-shaft in one piece. However, since yours is already separated from the CV-joint...you can skip this part. Probably easier to remove the nut and shaft on a workbench. You should be able to grab the shaft with your hand or gently pry the shaft out of the end of the axle. Take care to not screw the output seal. There is a small snap ring that holds the half-shaft into the housing. A good quick "pop" is all it takes to pull it out.

Grab the new shaft. Put some oil on it where the seal rides. Jamb it home (being careful of that seal). The snap ring will click when it pops into place. Sometimes you may need to separate the upper ball joint to swing the knuckle out of the way, to install the new shaft. If so...simply loosen the pinch bolt on the upper ball-joint, and whack it with a hammer. After that you should be able to lift up on the upper control arm enough to clear the ball joint stud. This will allow you to swing the knuckle out of the way, and get the shaft in place.

Put it all back together in reverse order. Have a beer. Job well done.

 

[TravisUsmc]

Well my truck has a 5 year 100,000 powertrain warranty. This is covered under the warranty. Buuuut the truck was made in 04/2009. Idk if they go by purchase date or manufacture date.

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[alrock]

Delivery date

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[Zach]

Pm me with last 8 of the vin and I can tell you if you are still covered. And it's delivery date

 

[4speedfunk]

For Pete's sake...give it a bath first. Not sure the ole "I was just driving down the road" story will work with all that mud on there. :emb:

 

[TravisUsmc]

I called my local friendly GM dealership Beck n Masten North in Houston and they ran the vin number and it is Still covered until 12/25/2014. My truck has about 65,000 miles on it. Im going to see if the can replace both CV joints and hubs because I have noticed a popping sound shortly after acceleration in low speeds. Sounds like someone dropping a baseball under the hood when I accelerated. It hasn't done it in awhile.

I had this truck for work in Midlands Texas. And we have been having a lot of rain lately.

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[TravisUsmc]

I was able to pop the axle back in place and put it in 4 high lock and made my 527 mile journey to the dealership. I was not able to take out the axle so I took my chances and took it slow. Just a little rattling noise at low speeds but once you got to 60 mph it went away.

Here it is cleaned off. There is quite a bit of grease in the wheel but nothing is damaged as we can see. I will find out when it gets out of the dealership.

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[cdarveaux]

I drove home from Austin with a broken CV boy did that come back to bite my right butt cheek later. Better to change it ASAP and check the fluids in your diff and tcase make sure it's not all nasty

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[TravisUsmc]

Gm dealership got right on it the day after it happened.

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[SuperBuickGuy]

I called my local friendly GM dealership Beck n Masten North in Houston and they ran the vin number and it is Still covered until 12/25/2014. My truck has about 65,000 miles on it. Im going to see if the can replace both CV joints and hubs because I have noticed a popping sound shortly after acceleration in low speeds. Sounds like someone dropping a baseball under the hood when I accelerated. It hasn't done it in awhile.

I had this truck for work in Midlands Texas. And we have been having a lot of rain lately.

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that sound is more likely the differential mount has failed. It also might be why your CV failed because it allowed the joint to bind up.

 

[Steve #1]

I was able to pop the axle back in place and put it in 4 high lock and made my 527 mile journey to the dealership. I was not able to take out the axle so I took my chances and took it slow. Just a little rattling noise at low speeds but once you got to 60 mph it went away.
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I would seriously advise against people "taking their chances" like this and driving with the broken shaft in place. I don't know if anyone else has had it happen but I had one brake and rip out the break line. It worked out for you, but not something you want to take chances with.