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Greeting H3T owners

HUMMR-H3T

Member
Messages
20
Location
Omaha, NE
I am about to be the proud owner of a mildly used 2009 Hummer H3T...I've wanted this truck since it came out in 2009 now it's destined to show up @ my door in 1 week...
Wrapped in Birch white paint w/ matching grille, the Vortec 3.7 Litre
Inline-5 and matted to a 5-Speed manual trans...
It's 1 of 1,111 '09 H3T's w/ the Adventure pkg...
I surrendered my 2013 GMC Terrain Denali w/ AWD and the ( RPO-LFX ) 3.6 Litre V6 today. I'm sad to leave her @ the chevy dealership.
 

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Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
894
Location
WI
Great! I hope you really like it, I think you will. I love mine, and most of the guys here love theirs! You're going back a few years, might give up a few options, however you're into a totally different type of vehicle. A very capable one. How many miles? What are your DIY or Mechanical capabilities?

Like any vehicle, there are some weaknesses. Lets get them out of the way. These are the initial things I would check if I was buying/receiving a new H3. This doesn't mean there's a ton that goes wrong, but the following are common replacement items:

1) Upper ball joints/Control arms - The ball joints commonly fail. They don't last that long. The lower ball joints seem to hold up pretty well. I would check the uppers first and right awa. The A-arms contain a polished stud pressed into a nylon seat. You have to replace the whole aluminum UCA. But it's pretty easy and inexpensive to replace. The root cause for failure is the grease dries up, or water intrudes (seal fails) ...and either way it happens, the stud becomes dry or rusty and it damages and breaks/wears out the nylon seat. Buy the AC Delco UCA's.
2) Steering rack rubber bushing - There's a rubber liner appx below the driveshaft behinde a bracket that holds the steering rack. Oil gets on the rubber bushing/liner, and/or minor rack movement spits the rubber out. Yours could be worn or even missing. Simple to replace.
3) Front Diff Bushing - Again near the driveshaft on the backside of the front differential is a rubber bushing that has up/down forces on it, and tends to fail. Maybe they went with a more robust system on the H3T's. But on regular H3's that bushing isn't long-lived. You can remove the cross member and replace it. Simple and cheap.
4) Check outer CV joints for up/down movement, esp the driver's side.
5) Check rear output bushing at the transfer case for up/down excessive free-play.
6) Sunroof leaks - This is real common and floods the carpet. Under the carpet GM used the most water-absorbent sponge-like foam that I've ever encountered. It sucks up moisture and doesn't want to let it go. It can make your vehicle smell musty too. There are a lot of threads on it. Essentially, the sunroof seal (if yours has a sunroof), can leak some and excess water is suppose to drain out the front/rear (there are 4x) drain tubes. But a single dead fly and a bunch of other debris can clog up the drain grommets at the firewall. You gotta keep them clean. Your truck could even have 2" of 'mud' at the bottom of the drain tubes (like mine had). Wipe down the sunroof gasket with a wet sponge ..and the seating area on the body. Dirt and muck can built up on the seal after years and reduce it's ability to seal out water. Replacing is actually a really good idea.
7) Battery Connections - H3's like many modern vehicles are really finicky with power and great battery connections are a must. And make sure the grounds are good and seated cleanly. Body and engine. Also, make sure your battery is very good too. When the battery's get weak or bad connections it can do wierd things like flake out the door module (windows and alarms don't work) and it's really frustrating. So if you have any doubt about the battery whatsoever, I would replace it. Save yourself a lot of potential headaches.
8) Passkey/No-start situation - Sometimes people have a no-start situation, due to the alarm. Read in the manual how the alarm works. You may never have a problem (I haven't) but if you go back in time many H3 owners were frustrated up to their ears by the alarm and a no-start situation. I'm not trying to scare you, just prepare you that if your H3 doesn't start sometime, don't freak out. Learn how the alarm is supposed to work. Like I say, it's not super common but just a thing to be aware of, and you will be smarter and wiser for it. The fix for people who have repeated issues seems to be a new key cylinder. But let's not get ahead of ourselves yet.
9) Test Engine - You should probably do a good look-over on it after you get it. I would a) perform a compression test (so you know what you have). Do it warm in accordance to good comp test procedures. b) inspect plugs and replace if needed, c) Same with air filter, d) you'll probably be tempted to put a oil'd cold air kit on it ...the oil from the K&N style filters can goof up MAF sensors (just sayin'). e) Check your truck's oil pressure if it's high miles (these 3.7's seem to be good up to about 190-210k and the chains and bearings give way. f) Verify all sensors are working right, no codes.
10) Replace all fluids - including flushing the power steering system. Unless you know certain things have been changed already.

Note: Parts support from GM is rapidly dwindling. If you have a list of things you need. Best to order them sooner than later.


Well, that's a pretty good start. Welcome. Go and enjoy your new ride!!
 
Last edited:

H3Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
LUXEMBOURG in EU
Welcome to H4O , nice T do far.
Well Jeepwalker did already give a perfect to do / check list to start . So nothing more to say but get a wrench and go for it ;)
 

Jeeper360

Active Member
Messages
30
Location
NJ
NOT MUCH TO ADD
but I do have a 2009 alpa with adventure package and welcome to the club
 

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
489
Location
SoCal
Yup, Jeepwalker gave a great list. I will clarify one point though; change out the POS battery terminals with a good set; Stingers, etc. Trust me on this. Regardless of how good they look/seem, just change them out. NOW! H3's are one of the most finicky vehicles I've ever known (I'm 60, so I've owned a few cars/vans/trucks) when it comes to voltage variations (even minor) and will make you pull your hair out. The stock terminals WILL fail. Once you actually remove them, you'll understand what a hokey design they are.

The only thing I disagree with is the K&N (not talking about the CAI, just the filter). I'm an old desert racer, and have run K&N on every vehicle I've ever owned, both off-road and on-road. I've never had a problem with the oil fouling a MAF (but admittedly, I KNOW how to oil them correctly); AFAIC that's a wife's tale. However, I don't want to go down the road of arguing the pros/cons of K&N, so let's just let that one go. You do you, I'll do me.

Welcome to the heaven/hell club of owning one of the best but most misunderstood and underappreciated vehicles ever made.
 

Ordieh

Well-Known Member
Messages
152
Location
Georgetown texas
I agree 100 percent with 650Hawk, I’m a 79 year old ex ”dirt racer” and K&N has been superb. His comments regarding reoiling are right on target. If you are a novice, go ahead and use more “red stuff” than is required on your K&N and run a dry filter while your K&N sits on the workbench wrapped in a thick wad of newsprint for a while. The only problems that I have witnessed were caused by improper reoiling. Check what kind of filters were used on the choppers in the desert post 911.
 

HUMMR-H3T

Member
Messages
20
Location
Omaha, NE
Great! I hope you really like it, I think you will. I love mine, and most of the guys here love theirs! You're going back a few years, might give up a few options, however you're into a totally different type of vehicle. A very capable one. How many miles? What are your DIY or Mechanical capabilities?



Like any vehicle, there are some weaknesses. Lets get them out of the way. These are the initial things I would check if I was buying/receiving a new H3. This doesn't mean there's a ton that goes wrong, but the following are common replacement items:



1) Upper ball joints/Control arms - The ball joints commonly fail. They don't last that long. The lower ball joints seem to hold up pretty well. I would check the uppers first and right awa. The A-arms contain a polished stud pressed into a nylon seat. You have to replace the whole aluminum UCA. But it's pretty easy and inexpensive to replace. The root cause for failure is the grease dries up, or water intrudes (seal fails) ...and either way it happens, the stud becomes dry or rusty and it damages and breaks/wears out the nylon seat. Buy the AC Delco UCA's.

2) Steering rack rubber bushing - There's a rubber liner appx below the driveshaft behinde a bracket that holds the steering rack. Oil gets on the rubber bushing/liner, and/or minor rack movement spits the rubber out. Yours could be worn or even missing. Simple to replace.

3) Front Diff Bushing - Again near the driveshaft on the backside of the front differential is a rubber bushing that has up/down forces on it, and tends to fail. Maybe they went with a more robust system on the H3T's. But on regular H3's that bushing isn't long-lived. You can remove the cross member and replace it. Simple and cheap.

4) Check outer CV joints for up/down movement, esp the driver's side.

5) Check rear output bushing at the transfer case for up/down excessive free-play.

6) Sunroof leaks - This is real common and floods the carpet. Under the carpet GM used the most water-absorbent sponge-like foam that I've ever encountered. It sucks up moisture and doesn't want to let it go. It can make your vehicle smell musty too. There are a lot of threads on it. Essentially, the sunroof seal (if yours has a sunroof), can leak some and excess water is suppose to drain out the front/rear (there are 4x) drain tubes. But a single dead fly and a bunch of other debris can clog up the drain grommets at the firewall. You gotta keep them clean. Your truck could even have 2" of 'mud' at the bottom of the drain tubes (like mine had). Wipe down the sunroof gasket with a wet sponge ..and the seating area on the body. Dirt and muck can built up on the seal after years and reduce it's ability to seal out water. Replacing is actually a really good idea.

7) Battery Connections - H3's like many modern vehicles are really finicky with power and great battery connections are a must. And make sure the grounds are good and seated cleanly. Body and engine. Also, make sure your battery is very good too. When the battery's get weak or bad connections it can do wierd things like flake out the door module (windows and alarms don't work) and it's really frustrating. So if you have any doubt about the battery whatsoever, I would replace it. Save yourself a lot of potential headaches.

8) Passkey/No-start situation - Sometimes people have a no-start situation, due to the alarm. Read in the manual how the alarm works. You may never have a problem (I haven't) but if you go back in time many H3 owners were frustrated up to their ears by the alarm and a no-start situation. I'm not trying to scare you, just prepare you that if your H3 doesn't start sometime, don't freak out. Learn how the alarm is supposed to work. Like I say, it's not super common but just a thing to be aware of, and you will be smarter and wiser for it. The fix for people who have repeated issues seems to be a new key cylinder. But let's not get ahead of ourselves yet.

9) Test Engine - You should probably do a good look-over on it after you get it. I would a) perform a compression test (so you know what you have). Do it warm in accordance to good comp test procedures. b) inspect plugs and replace if needed, c) Same with air filter, d) you'll probably be tempted to put a oil'd cold air kit on it ...the oil from the K&N style filters can goof up MAF sensors (just sayin'). e) Check your truck's oil pressure if it's high miles (these 3.7's seem to be good up to about 190-210k and the chains and bearings give way. f) Verify all sensors are working right, no codes.

10) Replace all fluids - including flushing the power steering system. Unless you know certain things have been changed already.



Note: Parts support from GM is rapidly dwindling. If you have a list of things you need. Best to order them sooner than later.





Well, that's a pretty good start. Welcome. Go and enjoy your new ride!!
 

HUMMR-H3T

Member
Messages
20
Location
Omaha, NE
You mentioned the battery gremlins lol.... it's done that a few times the gremlins come out and pull the negative cable red off. or loosen it without me knowing That's pretty much it right I went up to the Oreillys a friend works there we worked on that neg cable to get it seated properly When it did leave me stranded it was in my garage one time it was in a parking lot and I was able to get help to restart it no leaks from the sunroof, I put those motor metal wheels on with my 32x11.5x16 coopers ( With the wheels having a 0 offset set

I wasn't sure these Moto-Metals wheels would fit properly and end up rubbing on my fenders... Turns out my Fox 2.0 shocks must have lifted the truck 2'' up to where they Clear (no issues Lock 2 lock )
 

HUMMR-H3T

Member
Messages
20
Location
Omaha, NE
I've got a 35 day countdown...gotta get the H3T cleaned up & detailed to the 9's...and be ready for The World of Wheels



























( in Omaha,
 

zebra

Well-Known Member
Messages
126
Location
cold & windy
nice score! while we were looking for my wife's, we came across a really nice 1of50ish 2010 H3T with 5speed, Adventure, & 20-something thousand miles o_O... but she preferred the SUV since i've already got a pickup.
take care of her!
 
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