Based on a quick Google search, the wires don't have a quick disconnect in the civilian version. So you'll either have to remove the wiring harness each time or splice in a connector that you can pop as needed. Then, just bolts and the straps. May want to rewire the door-open switches so you can override them, or just tape them closed.
None of the electrical controls in the door panel or to the mirror have disconnects. I suppose it would be possible to cut the wires and splice in connectors. You simply unbolt the door hinge beyond that.
there are some write-ups on door removal on the HML. I'd love to do it but I don't think anyone makes trail doors anymore. Besides, the amount of dirt that will clog every orifice and cover every inch of the interior might be something to think about...at least on long dirt roads and the trails in So Cal. Would be nice to have quick disconnects installed though. Always nice to have options
these are the doors that Shawn at Angry Iron used to make -- I think he still does fab work but doesn't make hummer stuff anymore (I think he got fed up with everyone ripping him off). Wish I got some when he was making them!
I haven't been on here in a long time but I removed my doors and had the hinges drilled out to put some quick release pins in them for easy on off access.
I have a 92'LE with no PW/PL so my truck was a piece of cake. First, just remove your mirrors. Second, Remove the bolts that connect the door to the hinge. Third, remove the hinge from the truck. If you have a drill press you can drill out the hinge pin, it has a weld on one end of it. If not take it to a metal shop and they will do it cheap. Fortunately for me my neighbor runs a shop out of his garage. Then order some quick release hinge pins off McMaster Carr and reinstall everything. It is very easy to do. As for the connects for the door, I've got nothing for you other than what Freeze said by making the whole bigger in the door. You could cut each wire in the door and put quick connects on each wire so you just unplug each wire individually before the connector.
Driving with the doors off is amazing. Just need to get some military mirrors, or just turn your head since you will have no blindspot. Great when you don't have AC and you live in Florida but sucks when it rains because everything gets wet. Marine grade headunit waterproofing all your wiring isn't a bad idea.
all the doors have connecters located in the kick panels, you would still need to remove each wire out of the connecter to pass it threw the door gromit, do not cut the door harness, it has to move back and forth in that black tube in the door jam and if you cut it the wires will snap and cause more issues then you want and you will need to change the door harness to repair it. now for the bad news, i myself would not remove the doors. when the doors are close, that is what completes the roll bars system in case of roll over or side impact. if you remove the doors the roll bars can shift forward or back and the roof will cave in. AMG designed these doors to get through the cash test and DOT compliance. Military roll bars are completely different. i drive a guys military humvee all the time and his soft doors lift out and onlt have 2 pins and a cheap plastic latch/handle.
I think that's the problem I bump into my doors now, the body shop that did my paint job a few years back cut the harneses and ever since then I'm having odd electrical gremlins in the doors. I'll have to look at getting new door harnesses when I get my new engine.
But yeah, the Hummer without the doors and/or without the b-pillar is especially flimsy, I had 3Hummers help me drop my B-Pillar into my truck when I went to pick it up, and the side of the H1 you could push in and out with a pinky finger without that reinforcement... :giggle: