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H3 4" lift kit

DustybirdmaN

Member
Messages
22
Location
Alberta
Hello all, I actually own a 2006 Canyon, but I've swapped the suspension, front end, and rear end from a H3 into my truck. I wanted to retain the 4" lift I had for the Canyon, but with the H3 stuff. Unfortunately, as you all may know, 4" lift knuckles for the H3 are basically extinct......so I built a lift from random parts, and it worked out awesome!

4.5" BDS lift knuckles for 99-06 Avalanche (had to ream tie rod mount larger)
Michigan Metal Works H3 upper control arms (with chev 1500 style ball joint taper)
Skyjacker 4" front crossmembers
Reallift 4" torsion bar relocators
99-06 Avalanche hubs
07 Tahoe front brakes
Stock cv axles
Stock lower control arms
H3 inner tie rods, Canyon outers
H3 4" Rancho front shocks
Skyjacker 4" bump stops
Skyjacker diff drop and front driveshaft spacer
 
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DustybirdmaN

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Messages
22
Location
Alberta
Some pics
 

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Acer4LO

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776
Location
Illinois
Thank you for sharing this parts list together! It has been almost 6 years since a 4in lift kit has been available for the H3. Many new H3 owners never got the chance to buy a 4in lift kit and this could be a viable alternative to doing a cheap 1-2in body lift or leveling kit. The biggest problem with the H3 right now is that you can only lift it about 2 inches and that's it. It doesn't leave any room if you want a intermediate level build. If you want anything more you need to step up to a highly advanced level and do a custom solid axle suspension swap which is very complicated and expensive for newbies. If you don't mind, could you post the part numbers of the Skyjacker and Reallift parts so people know exactly which part to get? Thank you so much for this info! It has been well known that you just can't take a Colorado or Canyon lift and put it on an H3, but no one has tried to part together a lift kit using readily available parts. Thank you for your post!
 

amrg

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Interesting! Who is gona test that for an H3?

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DustybirdmaN

Member
Messages
22
Location
Alberta
The BDS knuckles are bought separately out of kit 191H, a local 4x4 parts store was able to get me just the knuckles. They're actually for 4.5" and 6" lift kits. They are roughly 3/4" taller than the Rancho H3 4" lift knuckles. The knuckles cost me 450 bucks.
So, when you order the custom arms, make sure to ask for stock H3 length (mine were made 1/2" longer than stock, and I ended up having to cut my upper mount "slots" out for further inward adjustment). They're made by Michigan Metal Works. They make adjustable and flat plate upper arms for the H3, just order them stock length(or get the adjustable ones), and order them with the Chev 1500 style ball joint taper. My arms were about 900 bucks.
The crossmembers and diff drop(with front driveshaft spacer) were for my original Canyon Skyjacker 4" lift, so for the H3, get your hands on someone's Rancho 4" H3 lift, and replicate their crossmembers (bushings would likely still be available), and the diff drop. Really not too difficult to build. The front driveshaft spacer would be made easily as well, but you could always just get a custom shaft built.
The torsion bar relocators that came with the Rancho H3 4" lift, were in fact made by a different company, Reallift. They made me a set after asking nicely, but they were reluctant due to high steel prices, and not wanting to charge too much. I got them for around 450. They may still make more, but you'd just have to ask.

I'm actually running a H3 steering rack, so do the same as me and run H3 inner tie rods, and Canyon outer tie rods (make sure you get the 16mm for both). And buy/borrow a 7 1/2 degree ball joint reamer (I bought one for 100 bucks) and carefully ream out the tie rod mount holes on the BDS knuckles. Make sure not to over-do it!
The bump stop pads were for the original Canyon Skyjacker kit, I just drilled and tapped my H3 lower control arms and bolted them on (after hanging the suspension but before torsion bars, so I could move up easily to accurately mark where to drill/tap).
The shocks are Rancho RS999309 adjustable, made for use with the Rancho H3 4" lift.
Then you'll need front brakes and hubs, the H3 brakes and hubs wont work with the knuckles. I'm running Timken hubs for the 99-06 Chev 1500 (near identical to the H3 hub, and the ABS sensors are the same). For brakes, I'm running calipers, rotors and pads from a 2007 Tahoe (they're a bolt on upgrade for the 99-06 Chev 1500). I also used the extended brake lines from my original Skyjacker kit. Just order some at about 30" from Summit or wherever.
In the rear I'm running Skyjacker leaf packs for the Canyon (about 2.5" lift) along with some 2" lift shackles
I'm not running any sway bars whatsoever. I do plan on getting some suspension straps from Kartek, and mounting them between the sway bar mount(on the lower control arm), to the frame. This would save from over-drooping and killing CV axles.

I'm 100% certain this would work on a H3. I did my homework
 
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DustybirdmaN

Member
Messages
22
Location
Alberta
I knew you H3 guys were basically screwed for buying any decent lift kit, since Rancho discontinued. I'm really glad this all worked out, and glad to share it with you all! Please go ahead and share this information with anyone you know that would be interested! I'll answer any questions you may have
 
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DustybirdmaN

Member
Messages
22
Location
Alberta
One more thing to mention is that my cv axles inner joint is riding a little further out than before, as if it's a bit short, and my inner boot is just slightly stretched......but I did pull the inner boot completely off an old cv axle, and bolted it up, just to see where exactly the inner tripod was riding. It seems good to me, not actually sticking out at all, and less chance of binding to be honest. I've been driving for a few days now with the new setup, in and out of 4x4 plenty, and all is well so far. I also stumbled across a new outfit that builds manual locking hub kits for the 99-06 Chev 1500....https://therammaninc.com/products/s...1500-Truck-4X4-Locking-Hub-Conversion-Kit-301
Could be useful for me, maybe not you fulltime guys haha

Maybe I'll get a few more pics of the setup once it warms up a bit here
 
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amrg

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Good information. Can the knuckles be made to work woth the H3 upper ball joint?
As for the locking Hubs, one guy went with those at a catastrophic failure. He documented it here and his bottom line was to stay away from it. Onroad its fine but once he locked it offroad bam.
As for cv joints, just a heads up, all aftermarket cvs for the H3 are trash. If uou went that route, you should know they are a bit shorter and built less.
I recently experimented with installing a zr2 cv joint on an H3. Its the same spline but fully compressed it was still 0.5" longer than needed to fit so didnt work. It has bigger half shafts and the same inner/outer setup and abit cheaper so you may want to look into it for your specific setup.

2 questions, why shorter UCA (the adjustables dont work) and why a colorado outer? Is the lower control arm mounted inwards into the frame compared to the h3 which pulls the knuckles (basically shorter trackwidth)?

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DustybirdmaN

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Messages
22
Location
Alberta
I checked out the ZR2 CVS on rock auto, they are indeed the same, but about 1/2" longer.....so thank you for that!! When mine grenade, I'll order up some of those. I think the way the BDS knuckles are made actually makes the front end a bit wider, thus needing slightly longer cv axles. These ZR2 CVS will definitely do the trick!!

And the knuckles cant be made to accept the H3 upper ball joint....the H3 upper is just too big, not enough meat on the knuckle to make that work.

The reason for the positive camber I had at first, is that the knuckles are slightly taller than they need to be, coupled with the MMW upper control arms being built 1/2" longer. They build the uppers longer to cure negative camber when cranking torsion bars.....I ordered mine in the tubular design, but with fixed bushings instead of adjustable heims. So longer arms+taller knuckles=positive camber. Just order the adjustable arms, or the fixed bushing design, at Stock H3 length, and it'll buff out perfect.

As for the Colorado outer tie rods being needed, its the way the knuckle's tie rod mount swings inward a bit, leaving less distance from mount on knuckle to rack. Track width stayed the same, possibly a hair wider actually.

Before the lift, I was running all H3 stuff.....lowers, uppers, tie rods, everything. Our frames are the same width. So everything I did, will absolutely work for a H3
 
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amrg

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Nice truck, what wheels/tires are those?
Is the canyon cross members from your lift kit installable on the H3? And final question, are there specific wheels needed to clear those knuckles (the rancho kit for the H3 calls for 4.5" BS)

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DustybirdmaN

Member
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22
Location
Alberta
The crossmembers I believe would work, just with slight modification for the rear so you can bolt up to the front differential (canyons have two mounts on each side of the diff, H3s have one each side, and one on the front diff tailshaft). My rims are 17", not sure about backspacing. I do have a 16" H3 rim for my spare, I'll try throwing it on the front and check for clearance. My tires are Haida 878s, LT285/70/17

This was on the lift kit instructions for the BDS knuckles, the knuckles work on a 6.5" lift too apparently.Screenshot_20220108-083733_Word.jpg
 
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DustybirdmaN

Member
Messages
22
Location
Alberta
I could definitely clear bigger tires no problem, but until I turbo this 3.7, or V8 swap it, I'm sticking with these. I have ported and polished head, ported throttle body, cold air, gutted exhaust manifold then straight piped, tuned PCM, and a 5 speed with 4.56 gearing. It spins these tires no problem, but it's still lacking power.
 

DustybirdmaN

Member
Messages
22
Location
Alberta
The crossmembers I believe would work, just with slight modification for the rear so you can bolt up to the front differential (canyons have two mounts on each side of the diff, H3s have one each side, and one on the front diff tailshaft). My rims are 17", not sure about backspacing. I do have a 16" H3 rim for my spare, I'll try throwing it on the front and check for clearance. My tires are Haida 878s, LT285/70/17

This was on the lift kit instructions for the BDS knuckles, the knuckles work on a 6.5" lift too apparently.Screenshot_20220108-083733_Word.jpg
 

DustybirdmaN

Member
Messages
22
Location
Alberta
Has anyone on here made coilovers fit up front? I was hunting for options and came across these....Screenshot_20211001-214714_Chrome.jpg

They're for a newer dodge ram. Clevis bottom mount, and I think our upper mounts could be modified to make these work
 

amrg

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You would have to verify yourself but given how alpha t-bars are no longer in stock and arb just sold their last batch of emu bars, H3 owners will need to find replacements esp with 10+ yr old vehicles.
Coilovers are a nice upgrade. Having tubular UCAs may allow you to fit those given the additional clearance between the tubes over the stock UCA.
Keep in mind that part of the frame isnt meant to support the weight of the H3 (spring wise). If you read any of the SAS builts, that section of the frame is usually reibforced with weld on plates (THOR parts sells those) which add to the strength of the frame
 
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DustybirdmaN

Member
Messages
22
Location
Alberta
Yeah I believe I may have enough clearance now with the custom uppers. I would definitely reinforce the bucket, if not completely rebuild, and maybe even add an over the motor crossmember from tower to tower
 

amrg

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There was a build really long time ago that did exactly what you just said. Samco fabrications did that, 14" of travel I believe. They had to move the battery and coolant reservoirs to do that. Too bad you cant search the threads anymore (they were on www.hummerxclub.com)
I hope someone here still remembers it, or has better info than me. Sad when a forum dies lots of info goes away...

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DustybirdmaN

Member
Messages
22
Location
Alberta
Well, I went for a second wheel alignment today, because my steering was still fairly sketchy after the first try. It seems that on the BDS knuckles, the measurement from center of hub to tie rod mount, is possibly shorter than on the H3 knuckles. I'll have to measure everything up tomorrow to confirm. Luckily, the BDS knuckles tie rod mount hole is drilled about 1 1/2" from the end of the arm....so I could indeed plug weld it, and re drill at least an inch further towards the end of the arm. Hopefully I can figure this out
 
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