I didn't intend to come across as dragging your name through the dirt. In hindsight, I see my words are harsher than necessary to convey the point.
I read numerous reports of these issues before ordering them but still figured that the time for me to have my own skids cut and bent and drilled and painted would wind up costing more time and very nearly as much money anyway in the end. I don't have the time so I figured I'd give yours a shot.
FYI: skid plate installs are commonly less than straight forward, for all sorts of vehicles, with skid kits purchased from all sorts of vendors.
I'll be happy to share pictures. I assure you, there is nothing wrong with the installation method here. I've seen at least a couple pictures of these installed where people had to re-drill the factory mount hole for the front side of the t-case skid to get the skids to line up. Oddly, this is about the only place where tolerances can't really be the only factor, as those holes are located to fit the tiny factory skid for the t-case that does not have provisions for tolerances as significant as we're coming up with here. The only possibility there is that the holes in your skids aren't where they need to be. Maybe some "batches" of these are coming out with that hole moved over about a half inch. Maybe the builder is not measuring from the correct edge, or staying consistent on which edge to measure from for each skid when building these.
Having to wallow out or drill other holes larger to get these to fit is something to be expected in a design where there are no provisions for tolerances from cross member to cross member on the frame. Remember, we have both manufacturing tolerances (positioning of frame cross members during welding/assembly), AND additional deviation from use and abuse. With the exception of the tiny OEM T-case skid, which mounts to only 1 cross member anyway, all other factory skids include provisions in the form of slotted mounting holes to deal with the reality of frame assembly tolerances.