H3 Humming/roaring sound during accleration

[BigBluMT]

So I just got my H3 from a private seller here in MT. During my test drive, I heard a sound but it sounded like the tires so I ignored it. I was told they replaced the transfer case and rear differential, blah blah blah... Come to find out it isn't the tires... During accleration, there is a low humming/roaring sound coming between 30 miles and up. When I place it in neutral or let off the accerlator, the sound goes away. I took it to a dealer in town and of course they say the worst... that the place it was serviced at used hockey pucks for mounts... that the transfer case and front differential need to be replaced and that its going to be out of commission for a while... huh... Just what you want to hear after not even having the vehicle for 24 hours. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it really that or maybe a u-joint, bushing, etc... If it is... What options have you gone with that has been the most successful?
Thanks for helping anyway you can... :shame:

 

[Best4x4]

Check fluids in diff's, transmission, transfer case, then check all drive-line components.

 

[zackcrum]

Hockey pucks for mounts? can you post pictures of that??

 

[derian06]

Go back to the private seller?

 

[Zach]

Go back to the private seller?

Probably not an option. Might call and check with them. But private seller is as is unfortunately. Unless they have a heart. But from the sounds of it knew of the issues

 

[derian06]

Probably not an option. Might call and check with them. But private seller is as is unfortunately. Unless they have a heart. But from the sounds of it knew of the issues

Yeah, i hope they didn't screw him over.

 

[BigBluMT]

I'm a she.... hahaha. and yes I did get screwed. I have a highly modified subaru wrx that I do my own work on. spark plugs, fuel injectors, fuel filters, brakes, shocks... those I can do myself... transfer cases and diff's? clueless. I have no idea what to look for... other than the hockey puck, of course. jeez. The tranny fluid is bad and low which is what I originally took it to the shop for. Get it flushed and get some clean fluid in there... then they found the "Mess". I will check the case fluid and diff fluid once I figure out how to do that. lol. Gotta love youtube videos. The told me it would cost me 5-8,000 to replace the transfer case and overhaul the front diff. Good Lord... That makes me sweat like a whore in church.

 

[Zach]

That makes me sweat like a whore in church.

Funny as ****!

Tcase, you can get an assembly new. For the price, I would put a 4.10 in it. I can get a new one for around 1150 plus shipping. If its a lux pkg, that tcase is a lot more. Front diff, I know the cast iron ones are not sold as assemblies anymore. Would assume the same for the aluminum diff. I can check. Best bet is take it to a gear shop to rebuild the diff. Do your homework and make sure it is a reliable shop. Should come in a hell of alot less than you were quoted

 

[Peep]

Did it sound like this?

 

[Zach]

Did it sound like this?

Add four more and you have an I5. Just wait till one breaks its leg.

 

[BigBluMT]

not sure if it was built with a lux or not. all the chrome could have been added later. The tires are the adventure pkg. so I have no idea in that aspect. I don't see air ride either. I just see regular shocks. I tried to upload a pick of the official made in slovakia puck but website keeps saying it failed. It truely is a work of art... Makes me more concerned that something happened to that front end for a hockey puck to be present instead of them ordering the correct mount for it. And what in the world they did to fix it or what they jerry rigged to make it work for a short time. There is a shop here in town that said to just replace the whole front end with a used one and they will warranty it... I can't even imagine how long it would be out of commission. maybe not as long as overhauling the diff. who knows. I am so frustrated. I got it to drive in the winter because my WRX is low profile and I wanted something heavier and higher off the ground. I drive long distances between towns and I want something reliable. This isn't very reliable right now.

 

[BigBluMT]

lmao. nah, sounds like fat 4 wheel tires going fast on the highway... hence why I originally thought it was just the tires. The gerbal isn't quite the sound I was thinking. haha.

 

[Zach]

Pm me the vin, I can check the history for warranty and whether it's lux or adv

 

[Zach]

And H3's did not have air ride. Only the 2's had that option

 

[BigBluMT]

And H3's did not have air ride. Only the 2's had that option

ah. I must have looked at an H2 thread thinking it was an H3.

 

[BigBluMT]

Check fluids in diff's, transmission, transfer case, then check all drive-line components.

So I just removed the drain plug on the front diff. It is so gross. It's like a mud brown/greenish color. at least there is no metal shavings in it. whew. I think its the original oil and it has 160,000 miles on it. Good grief. Will be get that bad boy flushed out. Next is the TC case. The tranny oil is low and bad too but I already saw that one. Lets see if we get another interesting color on the TC.

 

[08H3]

..... If its a lux pkg, that tcase is a lot more......

Why would it be more?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

at 160,000 miles, it's probably shot motor mounts - if they replaced them with hockey pucks, it's possible that you're getting normal vibration transmitted through what is now a solid mount. I made the mistake, the first time I replaced my front differential mount of using a solid plastic - you couldn't hold on to the steering wheel it vibrated so badly. Put the right material in, and it was fine. With that said, there's a fine line between normal vibration and it's about to go bad in a hurry because a bearing is out in the front differential or you've lost a link in the transfer case chain. trace down the source, even if it means splitting the differential and pulling the transfer case... at this point, it could be relatively cheap to fix. For me, I waited and the transfer case cost $1100 and the front differential was about the same to rebuild... don't wait. If i'd gotten it before, I'd been out a chain (183.00) and a bearing (10.00 plus 400 in labor).

 

[Zach]

Why would it be more?

Trust me it is about $500 or so more. Gm's pricing. Over the years I've learned not to question it. Surprisingly the desired 4.10 is cheaper. Go figure.

 

[Ghostbuster]

lol

Zach, 4.10 is a gear ratio for differentials. 4:1 is the ratio for the adventure pkg transfer case.

A base H3 and a lux h3 have the same transfer case, unless you get the adventure pkg.

OP,

If there are no metal shavings in your front diff fluid then you probably don't have to worry about the gears, but maybe a bad bearing.

You have 160k miles on it... there are gonna be some weird noises.

There are many things that could be going wrong. Have everything checked out before you go ahead and spend thousands of dollars.

 

[08H3]

Trust me it is about $500 or so more. Gm's pricing. Over the years I've learned not to question it. Surprisingly the desired 4.10 is cheaper. Go figure.

I'm still lost. Are we talking diffs or T-Case? My lux (w/ Offroad pack) is the same GM P/N as Adventure T-case. Maybe we are just talking the difference between the BW 4493 and 4494 irrelevant of whether it's in a lux...

 

[Best4x4]

When I drained my wife's 07 Adventure's rear diff the gear oil was almost the same color as green anti-freeze with 75/90 consistency . I had just the usual small amount of metal on the drain plug (normal). Some OEM or gear oil companies put a colored dye in their fluids so it's easier to detect leaks later on. I changed it out with some Mobil1 75/90 Synthetic and left it at that.

Since you didn't have any shavings I'd just pour some fresh diff oil in and let if flush out any left over old oil, then fill it until it just starts to come out the fill plug. Then move onto the next thing.

 

[BigBluMT]

When I drained my wife's 07 Adventure's rear diff the gear oil was almost the same color as green anti-freeze with 75/90 consistency . I had just the usual small amount of metal on the drain plug (normal). Some OEM or gear oil companies put a colored dye in their fluids so it's easier to detect leaks later on. I changed it out with some Mobil1 75/90 Synthetic and left it at that.

Since you didn't have any shavings I'd just pour some fresh diff oil in and let if flush out any left over old oil, then fill it until it just starts to come out the fill plug. Then move onto the next thing.

Yes no shavings... Which is a miracle. Haven't done the back yet. The tc didn't have a gasket. They used a silicone piped on the edge to seal which didn't work because some of it is leaking. That oil was like a dark solid red kind of murky looking. The front diff was very brown with a tinge of dark green in it. Going to swap out the fluids, dive it around and see what happens. The tranny is low so for now I will just put some more in until I can get it flushed. Any of the three could be the cause. Can't discount that sound.

 

[Zach]

I'm still lost. Are we talking diffs or T-Case? My lux (w/ Offroad pack) is the same GM P/N as Adventure T-case. Maybe we are just talking the difference between the BW 4493 and 4494 irrelevant of whether it's in a lux...

Meant adv to base

 

[4speedfunk]

Back to the "Hummmm" you first described...You might want to check both driveshafts. The pitch change when you go from power-to-coast is a tell tale sign for u-joint or differential issues. If your diffs seem okay, then take a closer look at the driveshafts.

The front driveshaft has a CV-joint on the aft end of it, that is prone to failure. It has a rubber boot that commonly rips and flings all the lube out of it (much like the halfshafts). On the fore end of it, is a standard (non-serviceable) u-joint. If the CV is all sloppy and/or dry...it will generate a hum. You can buy a separate replaceable CV but if the front U-joint is toast, you might be better off to simply replace the entire shaft with a new one. They run about $250, and it takes a 7/16", a 10mm, and ten minutes to change.

The rear driveshaft has standard u-joints on both ends but, they are non-servicable. You can take the shaft to a driveline shop and they can install new greaseable Spicer U-joints on both ends in a matter of minutes. That way you can maintain it for years with a simple squirt once in awhile. It takes even less time to pull the rear one. Make sure you chalk the wheels...H3's have no PARK with either driveshaft removed!

While you got them out...roll them on a flat surface (such as a large table) and check them for any wobbles. While its not real common...a bent shaft will create a hum at certain rpms. Driveshaft work is real cheap, and given your symptoms...it would be great if this were the problem. Save you the expense of tearing into other, more expensive parts (axles & t-case).




BTW. The t-case you want is GM #24247592....$1200. This is the latest updated, service replacement version of the 4494 with the steel fork, raised fill plug, and 4:1 (Adv.Pak) low range. All other t-cases (Lux, Base, Alpha, T or SUV, whatever) should be thrown in the trash. In fact...I'm stumped as to why GM didn't make all of them the 4:1 version. Duh.