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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
I love my truck, but I’m calling it quits after 10 years as an owner. Lost an oil pump a couple days ago so I’m going to replace that and move on. Probably sell most of my accessories separately of the truck. Most fun I have ever had with a vehicle, and if the next owner has better luck than I do then they will enjoy a truck that’s about 75% brand new mechanically.

I have factory U-steps, Helm 2 book repair manual set, factory roof light bar(needs rewiring), spare transfer case, roof handles, grille, grill guard, probably keep my winch. No use in including them with the truck as I’ll get no extra cash from them if I do.


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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
It was, I think I just had bad luck with this truck, I can’t find anyone else that has consistently had as many issues as I have.


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3Hummers

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
10,228
Location
Central Texas
If I enjoyed a vehicle for ten years I call that a win. Whatever you get next...I doubt you will get ten years of pleasure out of.
 

Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
True, truck has easily had well over $30k in repairs in that 10 years. That’s not a lot for some but it’s more than I can stomach. I can’t imagine how much it would have been if I didn’t do half of the repairs with my own labor.


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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,362
Location
Way up north, UT
I think a lot of the fun and love for vehicles is getting something new (even if it's just new to you) and playing with it and tinkering with it. Once it becomes a money pit or a nuisance because it is breaking more often that you'd like then it loses it's draw. I could see about 5-10 years being the limit for something like that.
 

Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
See I’m more the type to keep vehicles long term, if the truck was even semi reliable to the point you could go 10,000 miles for less than $2,500 in repairs I would keep it.
I literally just regeared it last May, I had every intention of keeping long term. But I suppose as I get older I’m becoming less forgiving of failures and climbing under it. It’s more fun to spend money on upgrades than it is to replace failing parts.

It’s all worse because the aftermarket is nearly non-existent, GM supports the trucks with must haves like transmission shifter cables. But damn if you break a door panel because you cannot buy a new one, and if you find an old worn and cracked used door panel in a junkyard it’s going to be $1,000+. The only real aftermarket is the single Outfitter bushings product and the few items at Rubber Duck. Otherwise everything else is big name products or frilly novelties that make ya want to roll your eyes. The biggest saving grace is the LS engine, just happens to be the LQ4 is well known for oil pump failures at 175k+ miles.

Frankly the drivetrain, ignoring the failures, is one of the best ideas to paper GM has ever had. 3/4 ton running gear, able to fit 37s at factory height, full time 4WD, factory rear locker - it’s a fulfilled wishlist of wants. For all that was done right on these trucks it’s a a-shame that the quality just wasn’t there.

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Last edited:

Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
I’m not sure what I’ll do with parts, I don’t have the heart to throw any of the stuff out (as common when you start selling parts and end up with the less desirable stuff) so likely I’ll end up doing a package deal and not break everything up. Probably take longer for me to get rid of but I know those steps are in demand which I hope will help move the rest of it.

I have to get oil pump in truck, hopefully that goes smoothly, but I doubt it.
I need to get a local shop to tune out the air suspension warning since I’m running springs
And I need throw the old tube steps back on it, because no one wants those suckers.
 

MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
789
Location
Alabama
Sorry to hear this. I don't know anyone that has had as much bad luck as you with that rig. Since you like the H2 why don't you sell this one and find another one? Doubt you could do worse.

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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
Sorry to hear this. I don't know anyone that has had as much bad luck as you with that rig. Since you like the H2 why don't you sell this one and find another one? Doubt you could do worse.

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I considered that but I can’t subject myself to another round. Fool me once and all. I would always be waiting for the next failure even on a different truck.
I’ll feel better getting away into something that doesn’t remind me of the anxiety of taking this truck across state.

I’ve always been optimistic that I’ll fix this one new thing and then I’ll be good at least for a long while, I fix that and immediately something else goes wrong. It’s exhausting keeping up with this truck.
 

MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
789
Location
Alabama
I would probably feel the same way. Thanks for all of your help.

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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
Still here, changed out engine oil pump, which subsequently fixed several leaks. Still have one slight engine leak, likely cam sensor above the starter.

Front pinion seal started leaking but the company that did it is absolutely fantastic and replaced it at no cost under warranty. Have to go pick up truck today.

Have a popping in the front end on left turns only, all ball joints are fine, front differential was checked and the noise is not internal, body mounts have been repeatedly checked. Only possibility is the lower diff mount moving bolt moving around on accel - as far as I can tell.

Very slight brake weep from one of the lines on top of ABS module.

Still leaks water if the front end isn’t parked higher than rear, think it may be an issue in the cowl related to the sunroof drain dry rotting.

Still need to get ECU sent off to correct the air suspension message on dash and program truck for 4.56 diffs and 37s.

I’m not impressed with the redhead steering box, if you recall the first one was trash and completely shutdown the steering system and braking system due to it being too tight. I received an updated box shortly after (as detailed in that thread) and for the longest time I’ve had a vacuum noise in the steering at low speeds probably 50% of time. When I replaced the engine oil pump I went ahead and threw a brand new (not reman) power steering pump and new lines on the truck in hopes the noise would go away. I even updated the output on the power steering pump with the high output fitting. Didn’t fix the noise issue. The noise is 100% due to the steering box I’m convinced.

Probably will eventually get traded in on a 2022-23 F250 with the 7.3L, I’m seeing those guys getting 14-16MPG average and that’s mighty enticing for such a large truck with a large engine. Just suck losing the short wheelbase and SUV form.

Just a little update haha, I still drive the truck, I do enjoy it despite the many issues.
 

Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
I think for a while it would stay stock, big MPG difference between the 7.3L gas trucks with the Tremor package(12-13) vs the trucks with the stock sized tires(14-16). I haven’t gotten to that point yet. I’m not fully decided on 250vs 350 as there is some benefit to just going 350.


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3Hummers

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
10,228
Location
Central Texas
My F350 dually crew cab long bed has stock Michelin tires on it and gets better mileage than my wife's F250 with the Toyos. Both 6.7 diesels.
 

Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
I’m not going to pull enough to justify diesel so I’ve settled on the 7.3L; my only real question is 4.30 gearing versus 3.73 (which requires F350 to get 3.73). I’m heavily leaning to 4.30s since I’ll be ready for 35s already but with the 10-speed the 3.73 would honestly be more than enough for me while getting pretty stellar fuel economy for the size of the truck and engine.

Decisions decisions
 

MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
789
Location
Alabama
My front end was popping too bur stopped after replacing the front dif bushings.

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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
My front end was popping too bur stopped after replacing the front dif bushings.

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I think I did too much at once, I wrecked the truck March 20’ and I think it started after that? And then in April ‘20 I rebuilt both diffs, regeared and did the front diff bushings.

Did YOU actually do the work replacing the bushings? If so I have a question on the tolerance of the lower bushings.

The only other thing I can think is that I have one inner tierod that’s original, it feels tight but several years ago, iirc, it started popping so I shot it with grease and it went quiet, likely forgot about it since it wasn’t making noise. It feels tight but maybe when it’s moving the weight of the truck at low speeds it gives a little. I hate to replace something that’s quiet and tight, but who knows.

I don’t know, this truck is just a hotbed of mystery issues.


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MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
789
Location
Alabama
4wheel parts installed the bushings so I don't know the clearances. I ordered the ones from Outfitter Design. Good luck in solving the puzzle.

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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
So let me not jump to conclusions as I have the last 3 times I made this announcement.

But I found a major source of water intake into the cabin, hopefully it is THE source.

The pictures below show the cowl removed with the removable cover for the A/C system up, and then moved. I looked in this spot for the water troubles in case the sunroof drain was exiting into the air box some how, instead I found that it was routed seemingly appropriate away from the air intake box. I also hosed the area around the box to check for leaks and it remained dry on the interior

What I did notice is that the lid for the intake, shown in the lifted up position - had a very weak rubber seal that has begun degrading. Reattaching this cover I hosed down the area and started watching the interior, lo and behold the water started coming into the interior

Once I stopped the hose flow I again removed the lid and the water box was filled with water.

I believe the lid is not sealed and allowing water to drip down into the air box. I will be RTVing the air box shut to prevent future leaks


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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
Forgot pics IMG_7531.jpg
IMG_7534.jpg


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grod98

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
Ny
So let me not jump to conclusions as I have the last 3 times I made this announcement.

But I found a major source of water intake into the cabin, hopefully it is THE source.

The pictures below show the cowl removed with the removable cover for the A/C system up, and then moved. I looked in this spot for the water troubles in case the sunroof drain was exiting into the air box some how, instead I found that it was routed seemingly appropriate away from the air intake box. I also hosed the area around the box to check for leaks and it remained dry on the interior

What I did notice is that the lid for the intake, shown in the lifted up position - had a very weak rubber seal that has begun degrading. Reattaching this cover I hosed down the area and started watching the interior, lo and behold the water started coming into the interior

Once I stopped the hose flow I again removed the lid and the water box was filled with water.

I believe the lid is not sealed and allowing water to drip down into the air box. I will be RTVing the air box shut to prevent future leaks


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Good find I’m gonna check it


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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
( spare transfer case, roof handles, grille, grill guard ) I would definitely be interested in those items ,depending on where you are ??

My masochism is making me hold out again, watch this spot is the best I can say. [emoji52]


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