in need of help

[Tactical h3]

hey everyone my front dif cross member bushing finally went i got a whole new front drif cross member bar with bushing but wanted to know is this an install i can do my self or should a take it to a shop thanks

 

[alrock]

I think you can do this yourself in the garage. You probably want a jack under the diff to support the weight of the diff but other than that it should just be a few bolts. I'm sure someone that has done the "Speedy" fix will chime in.

 

[skippy]

Is it the one that holds the diff if so you have to take the axle out not hard but if you are not mechanically minded it could get difficult

 

[alrock]

Why would you have to take the axle out? It holds the diff at the rear end of the diff, well away from the axles? It's not the side support, it's this one

 

[f5moab]

No axle removal necessary for the crossmember/bushing.

1. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle
2. Remove the engine shield. Refer to Engine Shield Replacement
3. Remove the oil pan skid plate. Refer to Oil Pan Skid Plate Replacement
4. Support the front differential assembly.

Following numbers correspond to the illustration.

1 Front Drive Axle Mounting Bolt Tighten 110 N·m (81 lb ft)

2 Crossmember Nut (Qty: 4) Tighten 70 N·m (52 lb ft) plus 200 degrees

3 Crossmember Bolt (Qty: 4)

4 Crossmember

 

[skippy]

I thought it was the Diff mount sorry

 

[f5moab]

In a sense it is, it supports the butt end of the diff....:cheers:

 

[Tactical h3]

thanks F5 for the help i am going to try and tackel it next weekend i all ready have the new cross member can i re-use the nuts and bolts that are there or would you suggest to get new ones i will also take pics to post up in the tech section incase anyone need to see the job

 

[f5moab]

GM does not mention new bolts/nuts and that is one thing they are usually very serious about. However, a degree added to a torque is 'usually' a designation that the bolt/nut is torque to yield. And torque to yield bolt/nut should be replaced.

I would say add some Loctite 242 (Blue) for assurance and make sure the torques are followed (four frame bolts only). (Personally, due to possible vibration issues, I would use 271 (Red); however, under some circumstances, heat is needed to ever remove the nut from the bolt and then you need to replace. But I have found that a large breaker bar can usually replace the need for heat. And if not, a good hair dryer over a period of time will heat the threads up enough for removal in the future.)

DO NOT add Loctite to the diff bolt....