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H3 looking for a posi front Diff

Helllo I have a 06 h3 and im trying to find a poai track that will fit in that front end something like a tru track or sure track diff... Can anyone tell me what works and also maybe the Mfg and part # if possiable THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!!!!!
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,216
Location
massachusetts
Unfortunately the options for the front of the H3 are limited. You should upgrade your front diff housing to the cast steel version and your choices are an Elocker, ARB, or for a limited slip Engineered Performance (clutch type) but it requires sending your carrier to them to rebuild.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Eaton selectable e-locker. That's about it. Any full-time locker (spool) or automatic part-time locking diff (limited slip) will probably play hell with the Stabilitrac. I'm guessin the computer needs full un-limited slip for the numerous electronic traction devices to function correctly when the t-case is in 4HI-Street mode. That's the hunch I have, and I keep waiting for somebody to prove or dis-prove this. Anybody care to weld-up the spider gears in a stock AAM-7 and go for a drive? Probably not a good idea. Here's why I think so...

The factory rear e-locker on ALL H3's only works in 4LO-Lock. Oddly enough, Stabilitrac is defeated in 4LO-Lock. In 2009 a front e-locker was added as an option. Its interesting to note that the front can only be activated AFTER the rear e-locker is engaged...which can only happen in 4LO-Lock mode. So the front e-locker is like a secondary level of "lock" that can only be used if the first level of "lock" (the rear) doesn't get you out of a jamb. The front cannot be activated by itself...not sure why. Both lockers will be defeated the second you shift out of 4LO-Lock...and as suspected, Stabilitrac is re-activated at the same time. Long story short...Never does the H3 allow Stabilitrac and Lockers to be used at the same time. I think this bizarre wiring scheme is a clue to the sensitivity of the H3's sensors and traction systems. Another clue is that other GM trucks use an automatic Gov-Lok unit in the rear...while the H3 has the electric locker, that operates as a single track when its not activated. When you look at all these characteristics...there must be a reason the H3 comes with e-lockers instead of posi-type units. I think it has to do with the Stabiltrac. I think any cross connection of axle shafts in 4HI-Street mode will confuse the Stabilitrac. The computer needs absolute un-restricted, free-spinning, wheels at all four corners to work properly. Any automatic locker will have some limit to its slip...some resistance...and that's the problem.

I know a couple people have re-wired their factory e-lockers to work in all t-case modes. Not sure how well that works with the Stabilitrac. I have an add-on front e-locker and I rarely use it. It's wired completely separate from any over-rides and I can turn it on at any time. I have not got the nerve to see what happens if I just locked it and drove around in 4HI-Street mode. I would probably get some Stabilitrac freak-out on the first corner I turned.
 
Why couldent you put in a switch to the switch used inside for stab. track after the fact to turn it off altogether, then you should be able to run lockers or anything ya wanted to with no affect because Id bet that the info comes from switch back to the computer.
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,216
Location
massachusetts
The traction control does not get confused by aftermarket lockers or shafts turning at same rate. It is not some scary magic unknown. The system uses wheel speed sensors at each wheel and constantly checks and compares wheel speeds. If one wheel is spinning faster than another it applies brake modulation to the wheel that is spinning faster. Throw an old school detroit in the back and the wheel speed sensors will detect that both rear tires are spinning at the same rate and do not need modulation. Its not going to freak out or blow up.
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,216
Location
massachusetts
And...stabiltrac is totally different than traction control. Stabiltrac is only available on automatic H3s and uses the various speed sensors, accelerometer and yaw sensor on the steering column to apply brake modulation in the even of an emergency evasive maneuver such as a slide or sharp turn etc. The traction control in fact remains on even in 4low and uses brake modulation on the front wheels to try and distribute torque to the wheel with the most traction. On all three of my 2006 H3, even holding the button down would not completely shut the traction control off.
 
Ya hello again, I was out in the woods and we are always in water n mudd and I was on a old trail with deeep holes and I followed this one buggys trail around this bad hole and he had aparently ran over a small to mid size pine tree and pushed the root wall up some and it was under water and could no be seen and the skid plate in front got on ot and got hung up, and the tires started to spin and it was 1 in front and 1 in back I was po,ed to say the least I could not get the other wheels to turn to pull me off they were in great shape on good ground ect. I dont know anything about this so called control stuff I dont know if that stiablity control would do anything or not what do you think and what about the traction control which I dont have does that work at all? and if so what does it take to get it and install? thanks Snookeehook
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Traction control is not the issue. It's the Stabilitrac that concerns me and the yaw control is the reason.

Back when my H3 was new....I pushed it to the limit and intentionally induced drift situations.. It did exactly what it was supposed to do.....slowed me down. I think on dry pavement a posi might not be a problem....but as soon as things get slick....I see the Stabilitrac lighting up on turns because of the inherent squirrellyness that a posi can produce.

Like I said.....it's only a hunch. I don't have a grand to experiment with it and i prefer selectables anyway.. So it remains a great question that very few (including me) care about. Jus throw an e-locker in there and go find some mud!
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Second the suggestion for going with a E-locker, it's the best and easiest option


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Exactly. The H3 is a odd-ball rig anyway, and the stock AAM-7 is total POS...so don't try to get tricky or overthink the path in front of you. Just do what everybody else does, and be glad you got that. Keep a feather-foot on the trottle and wheel-spin to a minimum. A stock H3 is no joke. They are very capable but, also...very fragile. The right driver in the right H3 can spank a built JK and drive 2000 miles home on the highway, while Jeep-boy is still loading his $60K toy onto the trailer. Its all about the foot.
 
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