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Looking for help

myrddin

Member
Messages
8
Location
Indiana
Hi guys. I am new to the forum. I was looking to reach out to the experts, I have a question.

I am trying to get some things sorted out. I am looking to possibly trade in my Jeep (2021 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 392, W/AEV JL370 upgrade kit). All in when new I paid about 123K (?) around there. I have only put 4K miles on it... and because I work from home, I find myself driving my wife's SUV more than anything. So, I am wondering if I may be better off trading it in to pay it off and trying to pick up an H1 with the amount I have in equity (so this would limit me to a dealership I think). If I could pull this off, I would save a pretty hefty chunk of cash each month (car payment), and prob have the Hummer in return to play with. I understand they are slow; I get they need some Maintenace (I do my own work, mostly) ... But like my current jeep, it would sit more than be driven. However, if I do need to drive it, it would be in town or short trips under a couple hundred miles. My question is... help me with my sanity check somewhat... Would you folks do this, or no? I could keep the jeep and just keep throwing money at it. It is very nice to drive, def not slow... and extremely dependable. I should mention I am not new to Hummers. But I have only owned H2's (3 of them) in the past. I am a jeep guy... so gas milage and all that is not a concern for me. dependability is, and I would need to be sure I could get myself into something that isint a rusty mess, or a project on wheels... I was a mechanic (not Hummer mechanic though) so I am good with a wrench. But I am older now (sadly) so I am not able to do as much as in the past... but I have my son who can help me, when he is free.

I'll stop there... What do you think? In the end it bothers me to see my jeep just sit there... 4K miles on it... in the past year, I think I put 20 miles on it max. Each car payment is like a house payment.

thanks!
 

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H3Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
604
Location
LUXEMBOURG in EU
So for my opinion, a Jeep or Hummer or what else 4x4...If you only drive your wife's SUV, get a little off road Toy in good shape , to go play with when you want to.
Any older 4x4 will demand maintenance and rust treatment maybe and LOVE, that's why they last so long ;) But for shure and not to offense you or anyone else, I'll never pay 123Ks for a 4x4.
 

myrddin

Member
Messages
8
Location
Indiana
thanks, something to consider for sure... you talking about an RZR or something to mess with? I think I am in a position where I still need a vehicle to hop into when the situation pops up and I am alone, and just need to run out quick. that is really about it. As for as the amount. I have had a few like this, and it prob will not be my last... but between you and me. I agree. However here I am. I dont mind just keeping the jeep. I have zero things bad to say about it, and its a crazy blast to drive. whats funny is that people often think jeeps are easy to pass when they are trying to be a pain... but not a 392 ;) 470HP in a jeep can be interesting. I just don't need it, that's the problem.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,540
Location
Scottsdale
There's a lot of differences between model years, from engine to trans to other components including a/c and smaller things you wouldn't think of. Older ones like a 6.2 naturally aspirated are the easiest to work on but are the slowest by far. Newer ones, like an 06 (note that it's still an 18 year old vehicle) came with a Duramax, so there was plenty of power. The H1 owners can speak up directly but I believe many parts could be difficult to get and are often expensive. Since you'd be low miles it would not be as much of a factor; you would not want to daily driver one unless you want to do a lot of maintenance.

I'd begin perusing classifieds and investigate the different model years as you come across them to find out what you like and don't like about that particular model. Settle down on a couple that look good to you and you can bet some more specific recommendations from the group here. The right value is up to you, whether you want a $40,000 basic machine or a $200K loaded ride.

It's also important to figure out if you want a Humvee (military-sourced vehicle) or a Hummer H1 (civilian). Looks like a lot of ads sell the vehicle as an H1 when it was actually a Humvee with maybe a few creature comforts added in. Some of the members here may be able to point you to better sellers/options.
 

myrddin

Member
Messages
8
Location
Indiana
There's a lot of differences between model years, from engine to trans to other components including a/c and smaller things you wouldn't think of. Older ones like a 6.2 naturally aspirated are the easiest to work on but are the slowest by far. Newer ones, like an 06 (note that it's still an 18 year old vehicle) came with a Duramax, so there was plenty of power. The H1 owners can speak up directly but I believe many parts could be difficult to get and are often expensive. Since you'd be low miles it would not be as much of a factor; you would not want to daily driver one unless you want to do a lot of maintenance.

I'd begin perusing classifieds and investigate the different model years as you come across them to find out what you like and don't like about that particular model. Settle down on a couple that look good to you and you can bet some more specific recommendations from the group here. The right value is up to you, whether you want a $40,000 basic machine or a $200K loaded ride.

It's also important to figure out if you want a Humvee (military-sourced vehicle) or a Hummer H1 (civilian). Looks like a lot of ads sell the vehicle as an H1 when it was actually a Humvee with maybe a few creature comforts added in. Some of the members here may be able to point you to better sellers/options.
Thanks, this helps me to look at my idea a bit differently. I was thinking Humvee only due to the simplistic design of the whole thing. I like the 4 man, but unsure if I want a hard top or soft top... I know with the jeep, soft is more noise... I also like the simple design because if I get caught in the rain, I may/should be OK due to no fancy electronics (my jeep 392 I have now would be a mess after the inside got wet). I dont need a vehicle that I drive every day, or even all the time. Just something to drove when if needed... or to just get out on the weekend. It would be a 2nd/3rd vehicle to me. 99% of the time we just drive my wife's SUV. other times I take whatever car is last in the driveway (kid's). so, I think it might work? I think I am going to see what a few dealershiops will do for me on trade in on my 392. If thats too low (prob will be) I will see what I can list it for. I cant really do anything unless I trade or sell... so while working on that, I will keep looking at trucks for sale.

Side note: I did find one with a 6.5 bolted to a 3 speed. I think the motor is the <> motor "diamond motor" but can't say for sure. its clean. Has a raptor liner on the body and interior. Thoughts on that configuration? I think it might be a 98? I also found a few raptor lined in FL (but I am in Indiana, so ???)
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,348
Location
United States
Another option would be trading down to a JL Rubicon (or even a lower trim). Still nice truck but keeping it more modern. I only offer that since you said you are a Jeep guy
 

myrddin

Member
Messages
8
Location
Indiana
Another option would be trading down to a JL Rubicon (or even a lower trim). Still nice truck but keeping it more modern. I only offer that since you said you are a Jeep guy
yes, I thought of this too. Def would still want a Rubi. but there would be a big cost savings for dropping to a sport. And who cares if it sits forever, I guess. I just keep thinking this is my chance to get back into the Hummer world... granted all I had were H2's But I enjoyed messing with them. Could be since I don't really need an on the go every second kind of vehicle... it's the right time to try out a Humvee... I was (at one point in my life) a mechanic, and also a frame tech... Just not for a Humvee/Hummer H1. But I think that at least reduces the learning curve for me some. The worst thing for me is that I am an older guy now, with a not so good back... so that's a complication :(
 

3Hummers

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
10,452
Location
Central Texas
HMMWVs are much cheaper than civilian H1s but many states won't title/register them and a lot of insurance companies won't insure them.
1992-93 6.2 NA, A/C doesn't work well when it works. Great offroad truck, tops out about 58 MPH. I love my 92. ( only made 300 of them )
1994-1997 6.5NA, 6.5 TD and 350 gas engines available. the 6.5 NA gave you 10 mph higher cruising speed. 6.2 and 6.5 are pretty bullet proof. 350 gas, way underpowered and lower torque. HVAC system was ok but parts no longer available. #8 cylinder issues on the TD motors.
1997.5-2002 6.5 TD more. #8 cylinder issues through 2000 model year. Upgraded AC. TT4 ( I'm not a fan for offroad )
2003 Didn't happen
2004 6.5 TD with a CAT controller. Alpha 1st wave interior. Not much support for the CAT electronics
2006 Duramax and Allison. Best H1 made. Power, torque, comfort. I towed my brother's 1994 HMC4 back to California in one of my Alphas. Even going through the passes on 15 I held 70 mph. To buy one these days you are looking at high 100's to low 200's.
To buy almost any nice H1 these days your entry price starts in the 60/70s and goes up. Many nice ones, even the older ones are in the 100K range. You can buy a nice HMMWV with a 6.2/3 speed, no air in the high teens to mid 20s. If you want a GEP/6.5TD with no air the price goes up 7-10K. Slantbacks and certain models bring good sized premiums.

This is a very generic breakdown of the years and options. I didn't go into much detail. Check out Adventure Accessories website for a more detailed model year breakdown. They are fairly simple trucks to work on if you have done much wrenching. I do a lot of my own work and if you stay on top of the maintenance the trucks are very dependable and the maintenance costs aren't that high. The horror stories you hear are from people who take their trucks to dealerships and get raped. Interior parts are tough to come by, most mechanical parts are still available. Low production models like the H1 Alpha have a lot of unique parts so I would stay away from them.
 

myrddin

Member
Messages
8
Location
Indiana
HMMWVs are much cheaper than civilian H1s but many states won't title/register them and a lot of insurance companies won't insure them.
1992-93 6.2 NA, A/C doesn't work well when it works. Great offroad truck, tops out about 58 MPH. I love my 92. ( only made 300 of them )
1994-1997 6.5NA, 6.5 TD and 350 gas engines available. the 6.5 NA gave you 10 mph higher cruising speed. 6.2 and 6.5 are pretty bullet proof. 350 gas, way underpowered and lower torque. HVAC system was ok but parts no longer available. #8 cylinder issues on the TD motors.
1997.5-2002 6.5 TD more. #8 cylinder issues through 2000 model year. Upgraded AC. TT4 ( I'm not a fan for offroad )
2003 Didn't happen
2004 6.5 TD with a CAT controller. Alpha 1st wave interior. Not much support for the CAT electronics
2006 Duramax and Allison. Best H1 made. Power, torque, comfort. I towed my brother's 1994 HMC4 back to California in one of my Alphas. Even going through the passes on 15 I held 70 mph. To buy one these days you are looking at high 100's to low 200's.
To buy almost any nice H1 these days your entry price starts in the 60/70s and goes up. Many nice ones, even the older ones are in the 100K range. You can buy a nice HMMWV with a 6.2/3 speed, no air in the high teens to mid 20s. If you want a GEP/6.5TD with no air the price goes up 7-10K. Slantbacks and certain models bring good sized premiums.

This is a very generic breakdown of the years and options. I didn't go into much detail. Check out Adventure Accessories website for a more detailed model year breakdown. They are fairly simple trucks to work on if you have done much wrenching. I do a lot of my own work and if you stay on top of the maintenance the trucks are very dependable and the maintenance costs aren't that high. The horror stories you hear are from people who take their trucks to dealerships and get raped. Interior parts are tough to come by, most mechanical parts are still available. Low production models like the H1 Alpha have a lot of unique parts so I would stay away from them.
Wow, this is so helpful. Thank you very much. This is the kind of thing I was looking for.
 

myrddin

Member
Messages
8
Location
Indiana
HMMWVs are much cheaper than civilian H1s but many states won't title/register them and a lot of insurance companies won't insure them.
1992-93 6.2 NA, A/C doesn't work well when it works. Great offroad truck, tops out about 58 MPH. I love my 92. ( only made 300 of them )
1994-1997 6.5NA, 6.5 TD and 350 gas engines available. the 6.5 NA gave you 10 mph higher cruising speed. 6.2 and 6.5 are pretty bullet proof. 350 gas, way underpowered and lower torque. HVAC system was ok but parts no longer available. #8 cylinder issues on the TD motors.
1997.5-2002 6.5 TD more. #8 cylinder issues through 2000 model year. Upgraded AC. TT4 ( I'm not a fan for offroad )
2003 Didn't happen
2004 6.5 TD with a CAT controller. Alpha 1st wave interior. Not much support for the CAT electronics
2006 Duramax and Allison. Best H1 made. Power, torque, comfort. I towed my brother's 1994 HMC4 back to California in one of my Alphas. Even going through the passes on 15 I held 70 mph. To buy one these days you are looking at high 100's to low 200's.
To buy almost any nice H1 these days your entry price starts in the 60/70s and goes up. Many nice ones, even the older ones are in the 100K range. You can buy a nice HMMWV with a 6.2/3 speed, no air in the high teens to mid 20s. If you want a GEP/6.5TD with no air the price goes up 7-10K. Slantbacks and certain models bring good sized premiums.

This is a very generic breakdown of the years and options. I didn't go into much detail. Check out Adventure Accessories website for a more detailed model year breakdown. They are fairly simple trucks to work on if you have done much wrenching. I do a lot of my own work and if you stay on top of the maintenance the trucks are very dependable and the maintenance costs aren't that high. The horror stories you hear are from people who take their trucks to dealerships and get raped. Interior parts are tough to come by, most mechanical parts are still available. Low production models like the H1 Alpha have a lot of unique parts so I would stay away from them.
question. What are your thoughts on the 2010 M1123? I am looking at one that has some touches to it that I like... I see its a 6.5 and it has the 4 speed trans. So, it may work better for me on the hwy, and its newer than a lot I have looked at (if you can say 2010 is newer anyway). He has all records. its clean and maintained.

thanks
 

3Hummers

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
10,452
Location
Central Texas
question. What are your thoughts on the 2010 M1123? I am looking at one that has some touches to it that I like... I see its a 6.5 and it has the 4 speed trans. So, it may work better for me on the hwy, and its newer than a lot I have looked at (if you can say 2010 is newer anyway). He has all records. its clean and maintained.

thanks
The 1123 has an enhanced drivetrain and suspension. It is a better driver than the M998 but is a slightly more complicated truck than the 998. The Optimizer engine is a definite upgrade to the 6.2 NA.
 

myrddin

Member
Messages
8
Location
Indiana
The 1123 has an enhanced drivetrain and suspension. It is a better driver than the M998 but is a slightly more complicated truck than the 998. The Optimizer engine is a definite upgrade to the 6.2 NA.
thanks buddy... I will check it out a bit closer. He doesn't have a top or doors... but it has good records and has some of that Kevlar paint on the body and tub (which I like). and all led bulbs. I don't know what else... but Ill check it out.
 

myrddin

Member
Messages
8
Location
Indiana
Guys. New question. I called to get a binder from my insurance company on the 2010 M1123. They didn’t know how to work with the 6 digit VIN. Is this normal? Do you know a workaround? Should I tell them something that can help?

Kind of stuck at that point. I’m trying to work up a buyers sheet and total cost for me to trade in my jeep and get into the M1123. But the finance company needs an insurance binder to move forward.
 

3Hummers

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
10,452
Location
Central Texas
Guys. New question. I called to get a binder from my insurance company on the 2010 M1123. They didn’t know how to work with the 6 digit VIN. Is this normal? Do you know a workaround? Should I tell them something that can help?

Kind of stuck at that point. I’m trying to work up a buyers sheet and total cost for me to trade in my jeep and get into the M1123. But the finance company needs an insurance binder to move forward.
As I said in post #8, many insurance companies won't insure a HMMWV. Try State Farm.
 
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