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Need some opinions

TXH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
269
Location
Prescott AZ
Well as I posted not too long ago I had ordered a set of hankook dynapro m/ts in 315/75/16. When I brought in the T to pick up the tires one wouldnt balance out. Turns out I bent a rim and would need to use my spare which is a chrome h3 rim and doesnt match the set. Meanwhile guy brings in lifted truck rolling on 20" black rims and brand spanking new Nitto Trail Grappler M/Ts in 315/75/20. Guy says "I wanted the best tires not the noisiest" Returns the whole set. Hmmmm do a little talking with the manager and walk out with the whole set for 1100! I love the tires so far but have one question. While cranked over (a good deal over but still) they will rub and pop against the inside of the fender. Should I be looking at a daystar 1" body lift to maybe eliminate the problem or is it not really worth it? Anyone else rub with 35" M/Ts??
Here she is by the way. I will be taking the center covers off tomorrow as it looks better without them as you can see in the third pic

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H3slate

Brush raked
Messages
983
Location
Tualatin, Oregon
Wow! New tires and wheels look good!!

Where are you rubbing? Most of us with 35's or even with 33's rub on the sway bar at full lock up front. I wonder if the offset is causing the rubbing?
 

TXH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
269
Location
Prescott AZ
I am pretty sure im rubbing the sway bar that was where I rubbed before but I will have someone crank it over tomorrow morning and I will look to be safe. I don't think Im rubbing anywhere else. Its only happened bad once and that was in reverse turning pretty hard over. I dont think with the level and upgraded bumpstops shocks etc that I could rub just by braking but I have heard what sounds like rubbing when braking on occasion.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,677
Location
Scottsdale
I rub the swaybar with smaller tires than you have. I just turn the wheel back a hair after I reach full lock and then there's no rubbing. If you're rubbing the fender liner or other plastic that's of course a different story.
 

TXH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
269
Location
Prescott AZ
I hadnt seen any signs of it so lets hope im not. If I am it looks like Ill have to find a solution.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
You might try coming down a little on the torsions to see what happens.
I have my winch off working on it so that lightened the front end and it came up and now I have more rubbing than usual.
The sway bar arm angles down more when you go up and that in my case is where it rubs sometimes.
 

08SolarFlareH3

Super Swampers
Messages
2,525
Location
Finger Lakes, NY
The new wheels and tires look good! even if the rims are a bit on the big side. You got a real good deal, I just looked them up on Discount Tire's website and the wheel/tire combo sells for $2,134. I agree that they will look better with out the center caps.

My 33x12.5's before leveling didn't rub and after leveling they rubbed on the sway bar. Same with my 35's, they didn't rub at all before and they do after leveling.

Do you have any issues with rubbing on full stuff while flexing due to the offset on the wheels?
 

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
Hey man I had same issue with my T Just after I got my new wheels on... It was worse when backing and only happened when I turned fully locked... (tires were literally skidding on concert) I took it back and got it re-aligned and haven't had an issue sense...
 

TXH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
269
Location
Prescott AZ
Hmmm well Im pretty sure its just the sway bar and it makes sense that I would notice it more now since the ARB and winch are off. I don't think I will do the 1" lift block with all the trimming since it seems as long as I avoid full over its not too bad. Does anyone know how much of a difference I will have now when airing down???? These rims look alright but dang functionality is way better haha. Should I expect a drop in performance offroad?? BTW removed the center caps and painted the hubs way better! More pics tomorrow

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alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,677
Location
Scottsdale
With lower profile tires you won't get the same airdown performance as with the 16s you had on before. Less sidewall flex, less sidewall to grab onto rocks, walls, etc. For your camping, expedition trips etc. I think you'll be fine. If you wanted to do Moab or rocky trails you might want to put on the 16s (assuming you still have them)
 

skippy

Well-Known Member
Messages
471
Location
brisbane australia
i like the look of those tyres
i also had a little rubbing with the 35's until i changed the offset of the rims for the rancho lift!
it rubbed on the mud flaps and the sway bar
now there is no rubbing
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
After you get your front end stuff back on and see if and where it is rubbing the anti-sway bar you might try one other mod.
When I was re-constructing my front end to take advantage of another 1/2 of shock travel and have everything clear my BP tie rods, you might recall I also installed custom cut to length and adjustable longer links on my anti-sway bar.
I also later than this image rounded off the corners of the end of the anti-sway bar at the top to clear the wheels.
DAH_5085-1.jpg
 

TXH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
269
Location
Prescott AZ
With lower profile tires you won't get the same airdown performance as with the 16s you had on before. Less sidewall flex, less sidewall to grab onto rocks, walls, etc. For your camping, expedition trips etc. I think you'll be fine. If you wanted to do Moab or rocky trails you might want to put on the 16s (assuming you still have them)
Yup got four 315/75/16s on h3 rims sitting in the bed right now. If I ever plan on rock crawling they will be going back on. My guess though is I wont be doing much crawling

After you get your front end stuff back on and see if and where it is rubbing the anti-sway bar you might try one other mod.
When I was re-constructing my front end to take advantage of another 1/2 of shock travel and have everything clear my BP tie rods, you might recall I also installed custom cut to length and adjustable longer links on my anti-sway bar.
I also later than this image rounded off the corners of the end of the anti-sway bar at the top to clear the wheels.
DAH_5085-1.jpg

Ill have to remember that next time I have the money to do some upgrades. I would love to get my hands on a set of the BP tie rods!
 

Nacho

Now with Chese
Messages
1,240
Location
SoCal
Looks good, now the trailer needs matching rims.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
 

reaper

Well-Known Member
Messages
527
Location
Denver, Colorado
When I was re-constructing my front end to take advantage of another 1/2 of shock travel and have everything clear my BP tie rods, you might recall I also installed custom cut to length and adjustable longer links on my anti-sway bar.

Hey Hunner, where does one pick up a pair of those tie rods? And will they work with my Rancho lift? My current tie rod angle is straight across, it would be nice to have those without that curve.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Well I went thru BulletProof Steering Systems.
http://bulletproofsteering.com/
It looks like he is making two models but even though you are lifted the Rancho has the knuckles that are supposed to put the tie rods back about normal.
Mine are the Trail Proof size diameter. Plenty big.

I had to convey all the parameters of fitting them to the H3 and tell him what things had to be changed for fitment from his standard parts.
Using the Rancho lift with the higher knuckles will be like almost starting over. Using what changes he made in the bolts for his clevis to attach to the H3 rack will work but you will have to follow his list of things to measure to make one straight across. I would think it will also be shorter. The mis-alignment space may be different also.
Randy priced those higher than full size pickups I guess because of the changes in mine to fit an H3 at about 231/2 to 24 inch torsion set.
The bend was an added expense as well. He also followed up with some custom bolts after I ground off the ones that hold the inner to the clevis so they would clear the frame. He had them made and plated with thinner heads.
If you drill down on his web site and find the measurements he wants, do some homework and then call him. He is very knowledgeable about this stuff and you will learn from him how to do this.
It's not rocket science but it's more involved than just knocking out a tie rod. You have to consider the full travel up and down and what clearances you need.
I ended up using longer anti-sway bar links for everything to clear.
I hope he will work with you on this if you decide to go that way.
I thought the Rancho maintained about the stock angle of the tie rods just higher up using their knuckle?
If you have not read all the things I posted or for some reason I removed some of it, be aware you will have to drill out the taper in the knuckle to fit the bolts.
I drilled one set but when I traded I put new ones on the 06 and kept the drilled ones which are now on the Alpha.
Does Rancho sell only the knuckles??
 
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