No drive

[hummedout]

Sounds like the front diff is smoked...or possibly a CV shaft. Drain the fluid and look for chunks or shavings on the magnetic drain plug.

The H3 is a full-time 4WD, and therefore both driveshafts spin all the time. In 4WD-Street mode, the transfer case will send the power to axle with the LEAST amount of resistance. In your case...that would be the front axle (broken = no resistance). If the front driveshaft spins, and the vehicle does not move...then the problem is definitely downstream of the transfer case (in the front axle somewhere). What you say is true. You should be able to shift to 4HI-lock mode and at least move the vehicle. But that can sometimes be difficult to do with a broken front axle. That grinding you describe when going into PARK is because the front driveshaft is free-spinning. You need to shut the vehicle off to shift transfer case modes!!! The t-case requires some time to engage...it is not instant. Try rolling the vehicle very slowly (under 2mph), with the motor off, ignition on...and press the 4HI-Lock button. This should engage the 4HI-Lock mode and send power to the rear axle. DO NOT attempt to put the trans into park in 4WD-Street mode...that grinding sound is the PARK pawl. If you continue to do this you will need transmission repair.

I currently have a used drop-out front axle in perfect condition. Its aluminum case, single-track, 4.56 geared. 155k miles. No issues...plug & play. $550 plus shipping.

Appreciate info ,here's what's confusing me is I have encoder motor off,shift shaft I turned counter clockwise fully,and rear shaft n front shaft spinning,pulled back and went forward.havevto get fluid in front diff n check tc fluid before I go around block,
Thanks for heads up on the park(pawl) thing,I don't need extra problems

 

[hummedout]

When it broke ,the next morning I drained all of 3 tablespoons of front diff fluid(had none in it) now the smoke from last nite makes sense, it was diff fluid.
Added one bag of fluid and went around block,fluid was gone,bad leak,I hadn't even looked past the big puddle.
I'm gonna pull diff plate off and drop to inspect transfer case maybe this weekend..

 

[hummedout]

Sounds like the front diff is smoked...or possibly a CV shaft. Drain the fluid and look for chunks or shavings on the magnetic drain plug.

The H3 is a full-time 4WD, and therefore both driveshafts spin all the time. In 4WD-Street mode, the transfer case will send the power to axle with the LEAST amount of resistance. In your case...that would be the front axle (broken = no resistance). If the front driveshaft spins, and the vehicle does not move...then the problem is definitely downstream of the transfer case (in the front axle somewhere). What you say is true. You should be able to shift to 4HI-lock mode and at least move the vehicle. But that can sometimes be difficult to do with a broken front axle. That grinding you describe when going into PARK is because the front driveshaft is free-spinning. You need to shut the vehicle off to shift transfer case modes!!! The t-case requires some time to engage...it is not instant. Try rolling the vehicle very slowly (under 2mph), with the motor off, ignition on...and press the 4HI-Lock button. This should engage the 4HI-Lock mode and send power to the rear axle. DO NOT attempt to put the trans into park in 4WD-Street mode...that grinding sound is the PARK pawl. If you continue to do this you will need transmission repair.

I currently have a used drop-out front axle in perfect condition. Its aluminum case, single-track, 4.56 geared. 155k miles. No issues...plug & play. $550 plus shipping.

Where do you live n how much is shipping

 

[4speedfunk]

South of Indy…46151. I’ve shipped many of these, probably around $100.

 

[4speedfunk]

Pic of the front diff here…

Suspension part out…

The usual…another THORparts SAS/SOA build. Lots of nice stock take-off parts. Make offer on anything you like. Buyer pays shipping. All from a super-clean 2006 AP model…155k miles on everything unless notes otherwise. Front bumper Rear bumper SOLD! Radiator cowling Front & rear...

hummer4x4offroad.com

 

[hummedout]

So I removed front diff cover, big chunks,what is the gear that turns the the two driveaxles,immediately following shaft from tc?
It won't hold fluid either.
So do you repair n replace gear n new seals?or get used front diff?

 

[4speedfunk]

Yes. Fix. Repair. Replace. Whatever. I keep most of the parts in stock to fix the stock IFS front diff. I also get used ones quite frequently.

If it is so bad it won't hold fluid...I would say that's an 8 or 9 on the f'd up scale. The pinion gear is ground down to nothing, and the pinion bearings are probably missing entirely. This will allow you to grab the front driveshaft and rattle the pinion in place. The pinion seal is useless at this point. I have seen this kind of damage before. It will need a complete rebuild...probably a grand or so (bearings, gears, seals, everything). Its usually cheaper to chuck it in the dumpster and bolt-in a good used unit. Especially since you are not wanting a locker, cast-iron version, or anything rare. Aluminum 4.56 single-track diffs are everywhere.

 

[hummedout]

Yes. Fix. Repair. Replace. Whatever. I keep most of the parts in stock to fix the stock IFS front diff. I also get used ones quite frequently.

If it is so bad it won't hold fluid...I would say that's an 8 or 9 on the f'd up scale. The pinion gear is ground down to nothing, and the pinion bearings are probably missing entirely. This will allow you to grab the front driveshaft and rattle the pinion in place. The pinion seal is useless at this point. I have seen this kind of damage before. It will need a complete rebuild...probably a grand or so (bearings, gears, seals, everything). Its usually cheaper to chuck it in the dumpster and bolt-in a good used unit. Especially since you are not wanting a locker, cast-iron version, or anything rare. Aluminum 4.56 single-track diffs are everywhere.

Ok so I'll buy a front diff used and put it in,wonder why I can't make the rear wheels stay active?
Removed encoder motor and rotated shaft,was able to get it in 4high locked and 4 wheel low,but it just hops into neutral or 4 high locked for whatever reason,no noise or anything just goes to neutral,well park won't hold it still ,using parking break,why would it not manually stay in a 4 wheel locked mode high or low?

 

[4speedfunk]

You probably have t-case issues as well. Even with proper maintenance and no abuse, most plastic shift forks will begin to fail at 150k miles. Failing shift fork symptoms are often masked by the full time 4wd. You might notice some binding or lazy shifting between modes but, rarely will you get stranded. This is because whatever mode you get stuck in…will still move the vehicle down the road.

However once the front is disconnected (on purpose or by failure), then t-case problems are revealed. It become super obvious that the t-case will not stay where you put it, and if it slips back into 4HI-street mode…you’ll go nowhere. That could be what’s happening on your rig.