nut sizes???

[digglesworth]

So I took my sockets out to make sure I had what I needed for my upcoming job. Brake rotors and pads, new axle seals, 16mm tie rods, OD rack kit. It seems the drivers side rack bolts are 24mm... Can anyone confirm the size of the lower ball joint nuts? And do I need to take the LBJ loose or will the knuckle just swivel outta the way so I can remove the cv shaft? Anyone know the sizes of the caliper bolts or anything else in there I might need. I need to go get some 24mm stuff.

 

[Reloader]

The lower ball joint nuts take a 27 mm wrench or socket for the OE ones. Its possible that some after market ones could be different.
I have never had to break the lower ball joint loose to R/R an axle shaft. Didnt even remove brake caliper when I swapped out the broken POS EMPI unit on the trail near Tuscon a couple weeks ago. Just loosen 36mm axle nut, remove wheel and tyre, put bottle jack under lower a-arm, break tie rod end loose from knuckle, remove lower shock bolt, remove upper a-arm pinch bolt, remove small bolt (10mm head) holding brake line to upper a-arm and release bottle jack to lower assembly down. Tip knuckle out and rearward to wrestle axle stub out of wheel barren. Do this before popping stub shaft from diff unit . After replacing seal ,reverse to install. Oh and be carefull with ABS wiring.
I have considered removing about .250" from each of my axle shafts to facilitate easier removal and installation.
As far as your steering rack bolts, 24mm is correct. The listed torque value for these is something like 97 ft lb. I use blue locktite and tighten them closer to 150+ using new OE nuts as I have had them come loose after replacing my rack at the factory torque value. Last time I replaced bolts also. Passenger side rack bolts are 15mm heads and I locktite them also.
Steering rack is super easy to swap out. I remove one complete tierod assembly ( inner and outer ) to make it much easier. The boot clamp is reuseable if you are carefull.
Brakes are easy.Just be sure you get new slide pins with pads as corrosion gets these stuck. Also make sure all 4 caliper pistons glide back in with no sticking and that none of the piston boots have holes in them. Any sticking or holes and its time for a reman unit as you will have trouble down the road. Its also a good idea to open bleeder on caliper when pushing pistons in so dirty fluid does not go back to power brake unit and possibly plugging something up.
If you lived here in Phoenix I'd say bring it on over and we would have a good day wrenching. I love doing this type of stuff with fellow offroaders.
Good wrenching.

 

[digglesworth]

I will def use that as reference. Thanks a million. I don't have to do the LBJs now so glad I don't have to mess with em... I will need to bust them loose down the road since I'll be replacing all the front end stuff at 100k... I got a set of boots from a member that fit the 16mm tie rods so I'll try and salvage the clamps. What size wrench pulls the inner tie rod off the rack? Do I need to hold the rack or does the inner rod just unthread? Can I use a crescent wrench?

 

[Reloader]

I believe the inner tie rod wrench size is 36mm. same as axle nut but you need an open end wrench. If you cant find a 36 mm one or its very pricey , do what I did and grind a smaller cheaper wrench to fit as you will want to keep it with your trail spares to do trail repairs. Just remove boot clamps and slide boot outwards, if you are removing left side turn steering wheel all the way right to move steering shaft all the way into rack housing for support whilst loosening inner tie rod. Visa verse for right side. Do this before removing lines from pump as this will blow fluid all over if lines removed first. When time comes to reinstall boot inner clamps just straighten pinch points with a couple of needle point pliers and recrimp in place with a dull set of diagonal cutters if you dont have the band clamp tool. Locktite the inner tie rod with some red or blue locktite and tighten fairly tight but dont twist or damage the steering rack shaft.
When removing the outer tie rods just remove the nut completely and them strike the knuckle with a hammer sharply at the tie rod. It should pop free if it wasnt over tightened before. They dont need to be super tight. Just torque to spec. I cant tell you what that is cause I just do it from feel. Hold the tapered shaft with a 10mm wrench and tighten big nut with a 21mm ( I believe ) box wrench.
Just ask if you have any more questions.

 

[digglesworth]

I'm removing both inners to swap the 14mm for some newer 16mm. Should I wait to install the tie rods til the rack is back in and bled to be able to crank the wheel to one side, do one, and crank the wheel the other way to do the other?

 

[Reloader]

When you remove the rack be sure you center the steering wheel right to left and lock down the wheel after removing tierods. this will keep the clockspring centered in the column. Then remove the steering shaft and lines from the rack. after reinstalling rack back in vehicle, make sure its centered and reattach steering shaft and hydraulic lines. Release steering wheel and turn to right or left to put inner tie rods on. If the clockspring doesnt stay centered you will know it cause the horn will quit working and the airbag lamp will come on . Put everything back together and the last thing will be to add new fluid. Fill reservoir and start engine for a split second and shut down. top up fluid and repeat till reservoir stays full. Then turn full right to left with engine running to purge air. it may buzz a bit till air is gone. It should get quiet pretty quick. If not let it sit a while or even overnite so air can separate from the fluid. Are you replacing the rack or just removing to install new bushings on the drivers side. Either way procedure is the same.
Take a measurement from center of outer tie rod to center of other outer tie rod before removing while still on the ground and adjust new ones to this dimension. This will get your toe set good enough to get to alignment shop. Steering wheel will be off center but they will fix that during alignment.

 

[digglesworth]

Great. Thanks for all this knowledge. I just got the Outfitter Design rack kit so yes, the drivers side bushing are getting replaced with the ones from the kit. I've heard to mark the shaft where it joins the rack too to help make sure things are put back together right....

 

[digglesworth]

At this rate, I feel like I'll be spending a few days in the garage getting all this stuff done. It's been piling up all winter....

 

[humvee]

I just got the Outfitter Design rack kit

Have you driven it since installing the OD sleeve? How do you find it?

Remember to torque the sleeve bolts to spec or you're steering wont track back, and you'll damage your pump pretty quick if you're running 35's

 

[digglesworth]

Have you driven it since installing the OD sleeve? How do you find it?

Remember to torque the sleeve bolts to spec or you're steering wont track back, and you'll damage your pump pretty quick if you're running 35's

I plan on getting it installed today and dropping it off for an alignment tonight...