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Rascole's Rancho SOA install

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,714
Location
Bellflower, CA
Worst 3.5 weeks I’ve had. Well almost. Started my install the week before Christmas, right when one of the largest chain of rain storms hits SoCal. I had 2 weeks off work dedicated to this project and only got to work on it 2 days. Then a 6 week work schedule of 6/12 hour shifts killed my motivation. So an hour after work and a little on the weekend and I am almost done. Still waiting for our friends shop Wicked Creations to squeeze me in to do the SOA, next week (fingers crossed).

I was fortunate enough to buy the Rancho and a CI diff with E locker from Panzer. From the start I had planned on making a few upgrades which added to the delay. The front cradle was slightly bent and Rancho replaced it under warranty. I took the new cradle to my friends shop and he added the cut out for the steering rack and reinforced the sides/ears since that’s were the last one was bent. The trailing arms that attach to the frame and rear cross member was bent and I straightened it out and reinforced it too. That I did myself at work.

While the front end was apart I replaced the leaking steering rack and power steering pump. Drivers side top ball joint was bad and had to replace the UCA at the last minute. Found out the hard way that rims with 4.5” backspace 8” wide and 35” tires don’t work, tires rubbed the UCA and I had to use 1.25” spacers.
While I had LCA’s off I decided to replace the lower ball joints, figured it’s cheap enough and now’s the time to do it. Ran into a problem with the grease zerks hitting the CV shaft and breaking off. The geometry from Rancho lowers the hub just enough so the shaft hits the top of the zerk. Had to use flush plugs and will have to add a zerk to grease on occasion.
For now I am using shock extenders on the front until I figure out what shocks to use, they work great but do limit drop. UCA has about 1” clearance before it hits the stop. Right now the front is 25" hub to fender and the CV is only at a slight angle with about 1" of clearance between the LCA and the jounce/bump stop.
Replaced all the brake lines with 6" longer ones from Crown Performance, that was a journey, at some point someone put O rings in all the fittings. O rings do not belong in there.
Anyways, almost done and some small items to follow up with and it will all be done.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,714
Location
Bellflower, CA
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All jacked up and ready to go.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,714
Location
Bellflower, CA
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Used a 2" x 4" x.25" wall rectangular tube to make the reinforcements for the trailing arms. Got to use the plasma cutter for the first time.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,714
Location
Bellflower, CA
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Cutting the new U channels down to size.
 

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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,714
Location
Bellflower, CA
20170107_130642 (1280x720).jpg
I used shock extenders as a temporary fix until I decide what shocks to use. They work but bottom out 1" before the UCA hits the stop, might be a good thing I guess. A shock is cheaper and easier to replace.
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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,714
Location
Bellflower, CA
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Even though the instructions say to use 4.5" backspace rims like I have, I still had to use 1.25" spacers. I guess the wider tires on 8" rims is just enough to push the tire in.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,714
Location
Bellflower, CA
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And this is how she sits looking like a pre-runner until the rear SOA gets done. I already replaced the rear bump stops with new Timbren ones and plan on going with new leaf springs with a lower arch to keep it level.
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Hell yeah...quite the journey there...that's about the standard when working with H3 at least that's what I think

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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,714
Location
Bellflower, CA
SOA is ready for welding. Took 6 hours to cut off and grind the old mounts to prep for welding. Now for the pro to tack up the mounts. After all is done going to de-arc the springs to level it back out. If I'm correct, factory springs have a 8.75" arch, my springs only settled .75" over 11 years and 135K miles, Deaver says that is good. They can de-arc up to 4" if needed on the factory springs.

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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,714
Location
Bellflower, CA
Got it back yesterday from the welders and wow, what a difference. Sits a lot higher now. I'm at 26.5" on the front and 28.5" on the rear hub to fender. Next step is to have the rear springs de-arched by Deaver to lower it another 3" and it was suggested to use a longer shackle to compensate for the longer springs and help with travel. That should net me a 2" over all drop in the rear and I am going to lower the front to .5" lower then the rear for a slight rake and compensate for when it's loaded with gear. When that is all done I have to evaluate the drive shaft and pinion angle. The shaft is pulled out about 2" from the TC with a slight leak and driveline vibration starts about 70 MPH.
The rear sway bar is removed and I can not tell a difference.
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Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Hmmm, weird that your shackle angle is that far back
I believe mine looks like his...idk if my spring are toasted or the frame bushing that are worn out might have to do something with it...but idk which is why I'm adding airbags.

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