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H3 Rox Ebay 3"front level and 2" rear lift

Newkid

Member
Messages
6
Location
Michigan
What do you guys think about this kit? I am looking for a little more lift than cranking the torsion bars but don't want to deal with the sagging of the Rancho kit. I also know about the SOA conversion and air bags but I think that would be over kill for my purpose (mild off road more aesthetic than anything). I would also be adding the better bump stops and 35" tires as well. Also the heaviest thing I need to tow is two atv's in a snowmobile trailer.

Would 3" stress the angels in the front too much?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROX-2006-20...iter_Display:5.3L&hash=item2c69bd677d&vxp=mtr

In case the link doesn't work:
3" Torsion Key (x2)


2" Rear Shackles (x2)


Pro Comp Nitrogen Shocks (x4)


Installation Hardware

$330.00 (including shipping)
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
Any replacement torsion keys arent necessary. Stock keys have enuff adjustment. Rear shackles would net you more lift in the rear.
 

Airborne

Just a regular dude
Messages
294
Location
Utah
hmm I like burning money....

That would be ok for a mall cruiser/wheeler. You will prob (more like only a matter of time) break that stuff. Procomp are "ok" shocks but I'm sure you would be better off getting shackles from one of the guys that makes them and knows the hummer. ie schwartzy http://schwarttzy.com/shop/h3-2-extended-shackles/
The term "military grade" always turns me off. Buzz words like that don't mean ****. I'm in the military and trust me there are plenty of different styles of steel we use from armor to rifle barrels.
All in all you will save money if you do the torsion crank, get the shackles that will actually hold up, and then get the procomps from somewhere else. A broken shackle makes for a bad day on the freeway going 75 mph after you hit a hole.
Thats what Paulo means about burning the money.
But you are on the right track and welcome to the forum!!! :)
 
Last edited:

954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
hmm I like burning money....

That would be ok for a mall cruiser/wheeler. You will prob (more like only a matter of time) break that stuff. Procomp are "ok" shocks but I'm sure you would be better off getting shackles from one of the guys that makes them and knows the hummer. ie schwartzy http://schwarttzy.com/shop/h3-2-extended-shackles/
The term "military grade" always turns me off. Buzz words like that don't mean ****. I'm in the military and trust me there are plenty of different styles of steel we use from armor to rifle barrels.
All in all you will save money if you do the torsion crank, get the shackles that will actually hold up, and then get the procomps from somewhere else. A broken shackle makes for a bad day on the freeway going 75 mph after you hit a hole.
Thats what Paulo means about burning the money.
But you are on the right track and welcome to the forum!!! :)

Sorry I was in a bad mood.

Yea schwartzy shackles are awesome with the tbar crank. Some 35's and I have the Daystar 1" body lift. That's much better then that ebay lift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
The daystar body lift, Schwartzys shackles and cranking your t bars will all cost you about the same as that kit... That's including an alignment after you crank your t bars. Do some research and save up for shocks. There's a few good options out there for replacements. There's plenty of opinions on shocks floating around the forum. Try and find the ones that best suit your preference... That's a way better way to spend your money (since you probably aren't sending it to me)...
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,565
Location
Scottsdale
If you somehow manage to raise the front end 3" - whether with an aftermarket kit or by cranking the torsion bars - you will **** the front end pretty good. The front end components are not designed to constantly operate with those angles and you will be putting a lot of stress on ball joints, steering rack and tie rods and the CV joints in the axles. You can minimize the wear and operate much more safely with raising the front end about an inch or so. I would not recommend setting the front end higher than 23.5" when measured from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender.
 

Newkid

Member
Messages
6
Location
Michigan
If I am not mistaken 21.5" is considered stock here (sagging can change that). If that is true and I crank the torsion bars to 23.5" that is exactly 2" of lift and when adding the 2" shackles too the rear that would net me 2" of lift. Do you think that would be ok alrock? I read your post about the problems you had when cranking to high (alrock) and I don't want to run into that so I will stick to 23.5" like you recommend. my main concern is if the front is at 23.5" and I add the 2" rear shackles will the rear look too high?
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
alrock is spot on about the front.... so I'll only focus on the back.

Those shackles are terrible. To get 2" you need 4" (and actually more like 5 because the axle isn't centered on the spring). Thus, you now have an 8" long shackle in the back - and it's stamped out out maybe 1/8" steel. 1) it's too long and can bend (very bad things happen when that happens) while cornering; and 2) now the lowest point on your Hummer isn't the front spring mount (which is bad enough) but it's the back - and it will get caught. Add to that problem that once it's caught it doesn't have enough rigidity because of the thin steel to survive any kind of impact. Bring walking shoes.

Back in the 70s/80s people would make their cars preying-mantis-like with lift shackles... they were inappropriate then, and are inappropriate now.

That's not to say that schwartzy shackles are bad - they're an improvement over stock because 1) they don't lift too far, and 2) (most important) their designed to be a lot stronger than stock with heavier steel and better bracing.
 

Newkid

Member
Messages
6
Location
Michigan
So is it worth getting the 2" shackles? I could crank the torsion bars, leave it leveled and just add the .5" bump stops and new shocks.
 

Schwarttzy

Sponsor
Messages
1,371
Location
Rockford IL
I think the extend bump stops would negatively effect the ride. After I cranked my torsion bars and install my extended shackles the ride became soo much smother. I think it's because my H3 no longer rests on the jounce bumper (also called the bump stop, but jounce bumper is correct term for the H3) and has a little bit of travel before hitting the jounce bumper. You do get a bit of front end dive, but I don't have a single problem with it. I'm actually rather upset about people even mentioning front end dive because of how much of a none issue it is for me.

Also if you do install the extended shackles, I recommend getting my High Clearance Leaf Spring Mount. This way you can run the factory shocks with no problem at all. The High Clearance Leaf Spring Mounts match the lift of the extend shackles and also protect things. Anyway, I've still got the factory shocks from the day my vehicle was built on it still and it rides great. I get complement on the ride quality all the time, apparently it surprises people how smooth the ride is. (However I eventually want to upgrade to Fox shocks some day, mainly because they look cool. I would go with bilstein shocks for more travel, but I think the fox shocks will be smoother.)
 
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