SAS on a skid....

[4speedfunk]

It doesn't get much easier. Here's everything you need, minus shocks & brakelines....

I bought this axle awhile back, from a guy that was upgrading to a Dana 60 in his full-size Blazer (trail rig only). It was completely rebuilt, and he ran it on the trail for a total of three 1-day excursions...the third trip which resulted in a broken u-joint on the passenger-side. This also screwed up the outer chromoly shaft. I replaced the u-joint on that side with a new Spicer one, and also swapped the mangled outer shaft for a used GM one from my stockpile. I swapped the drivers-side outer shaft also, just so they matched. This was an 8-lug, 3/4-ton axle with Corp 10b knuckles...all of which has been replaced with Dana flat-tops and 6-lug hubs. It now has chromo inner shafts and Spicer outer shafts. I bought it simply because its already set-up for an H3...4.56 gears and an E-locker. Its in fantastic shape, and it would be perfect for somebody looking for a budget SAS.

SPECS...

AXLE:
GM 3/4-ton Corp 10 bolt. Large tube/low pinion
Eaton E-locker
Yukon 4.56 gears (no re-gear required for 5-cylinders!!)
Stock GM cover
Stock Spicer yoke
Fresh diff bearings (under 100 miles)
THORparts 3-link H3 brackets, fully welded (lower links, shocks, springs, upper link tower, and track-bar)
Yukon Chromoly inner shafts - 30 spline
Stock Spicer outer shafts - 19 spline
Fresh Moog ball joints
New Spicer u-joint on passenger side
Dana 44 flat-top knuckles - milled, drilled, & tapped
Stock Steering arm studs, cones, & nuts
THORparts ABS hubs and caliper mounts - 6 lug with metric studs
New Timken hub-bearings (GM large)
Stock Spicer spindles (GM large)
Used Warn lock-outs
Fresh hub seals & spindle seals

SUSPENSION:
THORparts frame plates
THORparts adjustable coil buckets & (4) capture plates
Ballistic Fab adjustable shock towers
Super lift JK +6" springs
THORparts link bars (2" x .250" wall DOM), pre-welded
Ballistic Fab creeper joints & bushings on each link (with jam nuts)
Ruffstuff lower frame link mounts & upper frame mount
Ballistic Fab track-bar mount (inboard)
Track bar (1.5" x .250" wall DOM), cut & welded by installer
Heim joints on track bar (with weld bungs & jam nuts)
All hardware

STEERING:
Nissan Xterra box, rebuilt & ported by WTO *
Nissan Xterra pitman arm, re-tapered for 1-ton GM DRE
Billet passenger-side crossover steering arm
Tie rod (1.5" x .250" wall DOM), pre-welded
GM 1-ton TREs
Drag link (1.5" x .250" wall DOM), cut & welded by installer
GM 1-ton DREs (with weld bungs & jam nuts)
Hydraulic hoses to/from box
Sleeves for box mount, cut & welded by installer
Adapter fittings for GM power-steering pump to hydraulic hoses

*Ram assist available for $250 extra (includes ram, hoses, brackets & tie-rod clamp).

SHOCKS, BUMPSTOPS, & BRAKE LINES NOT INCLUDED! (Must be sized after installation)
REAR LIFT NOT INCLUDED! (SOA with stock leafs is recommended)
REQUIRES YOUR H3 CALIPERS, ROTORS, AND ABS SENSORS!

$4700.00

I have many more similar axles on deck (all Dana 44s), and I will be selling them off throughout this year. Prices vary depending on the build.

 

[H3slate]

Nice!!

Could you make that e-locker work with the existing locker controls on the newer adventure package trucks?

 

[gfbh3t]

Nice job. Good deal I would be all over that if I didn't already have it.

 

[4speedfunk]

H3Slate...yes, if you're Hummer came with a front e-locker then its even easier. You simply connect the pigtail to the switch & relay that GM has already supplied for you. Gfbh3t has an 09, and his SAS locker is wired up the same way. If you have an 06-08, you will need to wire up the locker with a typical switch/relay rig...not difficult.

Gfbh3t...this is a "poor mans" version of your axle. I scored the entire axle for less than what just the Eaton locker costs. I think the guy was in a jamb (trying to pay for his Dana 60) so I just happened to come along with cash at the right time. It was essentially all brand new, and had almost zero miles on it. The gears, bearings, E-locker, set-up, and shafts cost $2500...so I got quite a discount. Figured I would pass it on to a fellow SAS'er. If it doesn't sell...I'll probably pick-up a mall-crawler, install the conversion, and re-sell the finished truck (or keep it for myself!)

 

[3Hummers]

Damn, if the H3 wasn't the wife's vehicle I would be all over this. Wonder if she would notice..........

 

[Romeo]

Damn I just did the Rancho lift less than a month ago and now I'm broke... Wish this was available earlier


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[4speedfunk]

I've had SAS crap everywhere for the last couple of years....sorry. It's nothing new around here...only new that I finally announced a kit! I wanted to do a few and get things perfected.
I got a buyer for that Rancho if u want to go solid.

 

[RamRod]

Man oh man I wish there was more wheelin' on the island to justify this

Looks like a great kit!


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[4speedfunk]

Just remember...you're wheeling on eggshells. You're only two IFS rebuilds away from fixing it for good!

 

[rascole]

Oh I'm so tempted.

 

[alrock]

I love the products and kits you are putting out there for Hummer owners. It's tax time y'all, save up your $$$!

 

[jakesz28]

Wow, that is tempting. I need to get moved into the new place first. But the wife is talking about a newer car and I get her old drivers.

 

[4speedfunk]

My shop currently looks like the 757 line at Boeing....got a bunch of these lined up. I am out of room and really need more space for this type of work.

 

[Alesnik]

Gday mate I tried sending you a private message but your inbox is full.

i am looking at sasing a h3 over here in Australia but we don't have access to the passenger 44 you use in these swaps. What would a complete 44 with 4.56 ratio with your abs kit and rhd knuckles no mounts be worth?

cheers, matt

 

[4speedfunk]

SOLD.


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[cowboy_tech]

How much for the SAS kit if I already have an axle?

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[4speedfunk]

Cowboy....

I have a customer that is dropping his H3 off at my shop for a full SAS/SOA conversion later this summer. I’m collecting his parts and assembling his Dana 44 right now. So,while I was ordering and fabbing the parts for his swap...I decided to also order some parts for (2) additional base kits. I’m just now assembling them, and getting prices put together. It will be a “stripped down DIY” kit...basically all the stuff you need to get your truck sitting on the SAS suspension. Then all the steering, shocks, and little pieces will be up to you, and you will need to source your own axle. This base kit would include the following:

• Frame plates
• Frame 3-link brackets
• Frame coil buckets
• Axle 3-link brackets (combo brackets for springs, shocks, & links)
• Axle upper link tower (drivers-side)
• Axle Track-bar bracket
• Link bars

Before you can drop your H3 down off the jack stands, you will need a track bar, and a track bar mount for the frame. You will also need coil springs. Once those are installed, the truck will support itself and you can finish adding all the other items. I am intentionally leaving the steering system out, as well as the shocks, bump stops, brake lines, driveshafts, etc....as these items will vary depending on your ride height and final stance. I can provide additional items or info to finish off the install. As soon as I get these kits assembled, I’ll post some photos and a price.

 

[cowboy_tech]

Cowboy....

I have a customer that is dropping his H3 off at my shop for a full SAS/SOA conversion later this summer. I’m collecting his parts and assembling his Dana 44 right now. So,while I was ordering and fabbing the parts for his swap...I decided to also order some parts for (2) additional base kits. I’m just now assembling them, and getting prices put together. It will be a “stripped down DIY” kit...basically all the stuff you need to get your truck sitting on the SAS suspension. Then all the steering, shocks, and little pieces will be up to you, and you will need to source your own axle. This base kit would include the following:

• Frame plates
• Frame 3-link brackets
• Frame coil buckets
• Axle 3-link brackets (combo brackets for springs, shocks, & links)
• Axle upper link tower (drivers-side)
• Axle Track-bar bracket
• Link bars

Before you can drop your H3 down off the jack stands, you will need a track bar, and a track bar mount for the frame. You will also need coil springs. Once those are installed, the truck will support itself and you can finish adding all the other items. I am intentionally leaving the steering system out, as well as the shocks, bump stops, brake lines, driveshafts, etc....as these items will vary depending on your ride height and final stance. I can provide additional items or info to finish off the install. As soon as I get these kits assembled, I’ll post some photos and a price.

That would be great. Shipping cost would also be a lot cheaper.


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[4speedfunk]

True. I get asked daily “what does an SAS cost?” It’s nearly impossible to put a number on it because there are so many variables that effect price. A DIY swap can be as cheap as $3k...or a turnkey swap can be as much as $14k. I think a “base” kit is the way to go. It will get you the minimum stuff you need, and leave the details and axle build up to you. And, like you say...I’m not shipping 600 lbs of parts across the country.

 

[rascole]

I am looking to start gathering parts for a swap next year. As far as sourcing an axle, if I were to buy a new builder axle what are you minimum recommendations for axle components? What dimensions WMS to WMS and tube length L & R side? Please let me know when you get the kits together and if you need a deposit.

 

[4speedfunk]

Preferably, you want a GM Dana 44 from 73-80. You can also use a Corp 10-bolt from 79-91. Every 1/2-ton or 3/4-ton GMC or Chevy 4WD truck from 73 to 91 came with either of these axles. So they are very cheap and easy to find.

Both of these axles are nearly identical, the main difference being the center casting and inner shafts. They are the same width from 1973 to 1991, and they are all passenger-side drop. Both were available in either 6-lug or 8-lug versions (1/2-ton or 3/4-ton). The center housing is the same width regardless of the year or tonnage. The track width for 6-lug axles is 67.5" The track width for 8-lug axles is 69.5". This is difference in track width is entirely in the hubs themselves, and the hubs can easily be swapped to add or subtract 2" in width. The 67.5" width fits the H3 perfectly, and these 6-lugs versions share the same wheel bolt pattern as the H3. Don't sweat it if you have an 8-lug axle. Simply swap the hubs and you're good to go.

The Dana 44 diff has the advantage of being used on everything (Ford, GM, Jeep, IH, blah blah)...so diff parts are easier to find. The 76-later GM D44s have thicker walls on the axle tubes. The 3/4-ton versions have stronger axle shafts. Some 70s GM trucks came with a flat-top knuckle on the passenger-side...something you'll need for crossover steering. The D44's center casting is slightly narrower than the 10b which gives you a tad more room for brackets and such.

The Corp 10b only came in GM trucks, so parts can only be robbed from GM trucks. Trust me...there are millions of them out there. Its not hard to build one but, the only guys messing with 10b axles are full-size chevy wheelers. So you loose out on all the millions of Jeep & Ford guys selling used parts. The early 28-spline versions are weak...try to find a 30-spline (1989-up) model. The 10b was never offered with flat-top knuckles, but the Dana 44 ones bolt right up. In fact...all the outer parts interchange between the D44 and the 10b.

IMO...there is no strength difference between the D44 and the 10b. However, there is five times the market for the Dana axle...something that really pays off if you are shopping on craigslist or ebay. Used D44 parts are everywhere.

 

[rascole]

If I do go the builder route what are the dimensions for tube length and pinion location? I may be able to get a deal on a Currie Rock Jock from friend.

 

[4speedfunk]

Build the housing to stock 73-91 GM spec. That way you can use off-the-shelf shafts. I’ve built a few high pinion, passenger drop, D44s by re-tubing Ford pumpkins...same basic idea as building a Currie but without the price tag.

Edit: I also add some more caster angle when I weld the inner-C’s to the tubes.

Edit II: Currie might have GM rock jocks already made and sitting on a shelf. Same axle dimensions for a 25 year run. Surely you’re not the first to buy one.

 

[rascole]

Does your brake conversion work on the old style knuckles?

 

[4speedfunk]

Old style?