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SAS steering...

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
This is way out there for most H3 guys but if you want to go solid axle, this thread shows you how to port a box for ram assist, and also touches on how to hook it up to the H3 chassis.
I prefer to use a Nissan Xterra steering box (also known as a "Delphi" box). These are very common, cheap, and fit the H3 very well. To hook it up you must get ask the appropriate adapters. I use JIC (-6 AN) hydraulic hoses and fittings. At the box you will need a 16mm female flare-to-6AN for the supply and a 14mm female flare-to-6AN for the return. You will also need a 16mm male o ring-to-6AN adapter for the supply line where it connects to the stock GM ps pump...
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Porting for ram assist is optional and if you want to do this mod, you will need two 1/4"NPT-to-6AN fittings, and some caps...
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Of course...you'll need a tap and a couple drills...
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Start by stripping the internals and get the box down to a bare casting. I left the sector shaft bearings in place but you'll want to cover them to keep shavings out of them. I have shown the two tap points for the ports with some machine ink. Start by punching them and using a smaller but to drill a pilot hole...
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Next, enlarge the hole to the proper size (7/16") and tap...
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The side port is easy. The top port however requires some extreme care when drilling and tapping. The idea is to drill into a small horizontal passage inside the casting. I use a magnet to help corral the shavings...
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When done...check to make sure you intersected the passage correctly. I inserted a small drill bit into the passage to show the intersection. Spend some time to de-burr the passages and make sure there are no obstructions...
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Tap this hole and install the adapter fittings. If you use Teflon tape, be sure to pull off any residual tape so it won't break loose and get lodged inside the box...
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Rinse and clean the box casting thoroughly...you cannot be too clean!
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Now reassemble with a new seal kit...
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Once done, you can grind the Nissan input shaft to accept the Hummer steering clamp, and also drill & ream the pitman arm for a GM 1-ton drag link end...
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When it comes time to mount the box to the frame, make sure you install tube sleeves on the four mounting bolts. This will prevent you from crushing the frame rail when you tighten them. Also you should always plate the frame rails. They are very flemsy and designed to collapse in a collision...so they should be beefed up before doing any SAS mods.
 
Last edited:

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Beautiful. I just did my ram assist and felt it was a worthy upgrade. As for reaming the stock pitman is that what your running now or are you still running your custom one you made?
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I'm still running a custom one on my rig. But, all future rigs will use a re-tapered (top-down) stock Nissan Pitman arm. I couple this with a matching length steering arm on the passenger-side knuckle. The result is a much shorter (fore-aft) steering set-up, less stress on the box, and a slightly slower feel at the wheel. The shorter steering arms could allow the front axle to be shifted forward approx. 1" over stock and get a tad more tire clearance at the rear of the fender openings.

Plus, it gets me away from the somewhat complex method of fabbing a custom Pitman arm.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
I think when it comes to designing the shorter steering arm/pitman arm setup it can be done with a straight drag link but because I didn't design it with that in mind if I use the shorter hole on mine it will interfere with my track bar bracket so I would have to put a small bend In it.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
From an old post

After you put these adapters in the pump and box you need to go get lines made. The adapters all make it -6AN fittings for the hookup of the line. Go to Napa or a hydraulic line shop and have them make 2 lines. Both lines should be 54in long. This will leave plenty of slack. Take out your old stock lines. One line is the high pressure line. It must be rated for high pressure it has a JIC 90 degree elbow -6AN female fitting. then 54in of high pressure line and a straight swivel JIC -6AN line.

The other line is the return. Its a 54in line also but has a -6AN JIC 90 degree elbow and then the other end is open with just hose that slips onto the bottom of the pump.

The pressure line is the smaller 14mm opening the return is the 16mm bigger opening in the box
 
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