H3 SOA convesion....but what to with front end?

[Bigsope]

Wanting to do a spring over axle conversion to my 2009 H3, but I am torn on which way to go on the front end. Do I use do the front half of a rancho lift or do I go to solid axle conversion?

Also has anyone else done a SOA conversion and had trouble with axle wrap?

Thanks!

 

[06 H3]

No axle wrap issues here

How do u use your h3?

 

[Bigsope]

Oh yeah. Just finished my 4th weekend at Hidden Falls, pushing more each time we go out. But I drive it to work every weekday 75 miles round trip

 

[06 H3]

the rancho spring over with disconnected sway bars will do very well and is cheaper/easier to build.

 

[Bigsope]

I read on Bebe's build they gained 6.5" in the rear and then brought it back down, which is fine, but what rancho lift should I use? Does anyone have a part number?

One other mod I was looking at was converting to the front axle with a locker, and locking the rear too..any suggestions? I am rather new to building a hummer. I ahve experience with full size Chevy trucks and some jeep stuff, but not a lot on hummers.

 

[06 H3]

Seeing you have no rear locker or 4:1 t case gearing I would start there. I am currently rancho spring over and sit pretty level.

I would lock the rear 4:1 t case and do the rancho spring over and then worry about a front locker. the front locker helps alot, but I dont have much experience with it, only used it on one trail.

 

[4speedfunk]

Just thought I would throw this out there... I have a customer that is removing an entire Rancho lift, to install a Dana 44 SAS. I might be able to borrow the kit from him, and basically blueprint the key components onto CAD. This would allow me to reverse engineer, fabricate, and sell only those items (that Rancho refuses to sell separately). Sort of like a "poor-man's front lift". I think all you really need is:

the main diff drop bracket
diff crossmember
diff skid plate
knuckles
t-bar drop brackets
outboard axle drop brackets

The Rancho knuckles and t-bar drop brackets are cast pieces but, I'm quite sure they could be replicated with a combination of welded plate & mill work. This can be done by building a fixture around the Rancho knuckles, then un-bolting them. This will leave you with a jig that precisely locates all the angles and locations of the pivot points. Basically, its like a "mold" of the Rancho knuckles that you can build new knuckles from using stick fabbing rather than the uber-expensive casting process. The Rancho outboard axle drop brackets are a very questionable design, and I would probably come up with something more substantial that replaces the entire GM bracket (rather than just extending them). Frankly I have very little interest in this project but, clearly there is a need for a "front half" kit to help out the guys that have done the SOA on the rear.

The real solution would be to do all of the above...except also incorporate an AMC-20 IFS pumpkin from the H1. Stronger and good down to 4.88s.

 

[Bigsope]

So you suggest developing the front half lift, running an AMC-20 IFS pumpkin, gear to 4.88s, get 4:1 t-case conversion and lock the rears?

BTW if your customer is intersted in selling the rancho lift, please let me know.

 

[Airborne]

Just thought I would throw this out there... I have a customer that is removing an entire Rancho lift, to install a Dana 44 SAS. I might be able to borrow the kit from him, and basically blueprint the key components onto CAD. This would allow me to reverse engineer, fabricate, and sell only those items (that Rancho refuses to sell separately). Sort of like a "poor-man's front lift". I think all you really need is:

Please make this happen.

 

[amrg]

Just thought I would throw this out there... I have a customer that is removing an entire Rancho lift, to install a Dana 44 SAS. I might be able to borrow the kit from him, and basically blueprint the key components onto CAD. This would allow me to reverse engineer, fabricate, and sell only those items (that Rancho refuses to sell separately). Sort of like a "poor-man's front lift". I think all you really need is:

the main diff drop bracket
diff crossmember
diff skid plate
knuckles
t-bar drop brackets
outboard axle drop brackets

The Rancho knuckles and t-bar drop brackets are cast pieces but, I'm quite sure they could be replicated with a combination of welded plate & mill work. This can be done by building a fixture around the Rancho knuckles, then un-bolting them. This will leave you with a jig that precisely locates all the angles and locations of the pivot points. Basically, its like a "mold" of the Rancho knuckles that you can build new knuckles from using stick fabbing rather than the uber-expensive casting process. The Rancho outboard axle drop brackets are a very questionable design, and I would probably come up with something more substantial that replaces the entire GM bracket (rather than just extending them). Frankly I have very little interest in this project but, clearly there is a need for a "front half" kit to help out the guys that have done the SOA on the rear.

The real solution would be to do all of the above...except also incorporate an AMC-20 IFS pumpkin from the H1. Stronger and good down to 4.88s.

Interesting. But how much would you expect the lift to cost? So is the diff?
Im sure there is some interest. I personally would order two lift kits if Im convinced (me and a friend)

 

[06 H3]

There is a need for this thats for sure.

A 4in lift and SOA axle will allow you to put your rig into situations to further expose the front diff. The AMC 20 is a good idea and I contemplated it but I feel there are other design flaws that need to be addressed. For 99.5% of the people I think a rancho/spring over will do them well. For the .4% left a rancho/spring over with an AMC20 H1 diff it will fit the bill. The small last .1% goes into SAS or bebe IFS mods because they are concerned with a beefy front diff the next weak link will break.

 

[Bigsope]

By doing the Rancho and rear SOA you are left with the AA&M diff, and 28 spline axles which are weak. Any issues breaking them? I plan to do some serious wheeling but its still a daily driver. Thoughts?

Does anyone have information on upgrading the t-case to 4:1?

Do i have to goto an OEM ADventure case or is there an after market case that will work?

 

[06 H3]

4:1 is bolt in. The AAM-7 diff keep wheelspin down and hope for the best. First one was user error, 2nd one was great actually it was still aluminum which is weaker but lasted me for 2-3 years with no issues but failed. 3rd one I put in is holding up great and even ran a hammer trail with it. then swapped it out for another one and that one blew up due to improper install. Now I have the other one back in and is issue free for now.

 

[Bigsope]

I found several cases with around 5 different part numbers, only differences were codes NR4 and NR6..which t-case am I looking for as far as part # ect...any ideas where to get one in central TX?

 

[06 H3]

4speedfunk just got a new one he should be able to tell you or message Zach on the forum.

As for diffs I probably am blowing it up and outta proportion. The AAM can last a few years on hard use but have a spare sitting in the garage.

The main reason I hate the AAM is because of the troubles I went through since September which all could been avoidable. The issues I had pushed me over the edge to go to a bigger axle

 

[Bigunit]

I found several cases with around 5 different part numbers, only differences were codes NR4 and NR6..which t-case am I looking for as far as part # ect...any ideas where to get one in central TX?

The Borg Warner NR6/4494 is the 4:1 transfer case (the GM part # that I had saved is #24247592.

 

[4speedfunk]

The t-case you want is GM #24247592. It comes with the encoder, and pre-filled with fluid. Shop around online, many GM sources sell them...anywhere from $1150 to $1300. Swap is a no-brainer...but does take some muscle. Get the mating gasket also...#15642511.

IMO...the rear 8.6 is pretty robust unit. If concerned, then upgrade to cro-mo shafts. The diff and R&P are proven performers and I really think this little axle is tougher than it looks on paper. The down side is...its still a semi-float with c-clips. If that scares you then you need to go for a Sterling or 14-bolt but, only for the hardest of hard-core wheeling. Be prepared to do some custom ABS work to retain the electronics after the upgrade. Frankly...if your wanting that hardcore of a wheeler, then I would swap to a 205 or Atlas t-case at the same time. In which case the electronics will be disabled anyway...so you can ignore the ABS thing on the rear axle.

 

[4speedfunk]

You are correct Bigunit. That number seems to be the latest, greatest, version of the 4494. There are many different numbers for previous versions...with all sorts of different little changes & updates. Plastic forks, fill plug locations, Alpha or non-Alpha....it doesn't matter. The 24247592 fits em all, and its got the good stuff inside it.

 

[Bigsope]

So rear locker, upgrade the t-case to 4:1, SOA, and front half of rancho lift should get me to that great on the trail and get me to work compromise I am looking for. Thank you all for your help!!! IF anyone runs across a used lift please let me know! trying to do this for under 4000 and lift really blows my budget!

 

[Airborne]

subed for t case pn

When you do all the mods don't forget to do a build thread!!!! We all love seeing the progress and the how to aspect of it.

 

[06 H3]

You will love the setup it puts my rig on trails where people say "How the hell did an H3 make it out here" very capable setup for aure

 

[Bigsope]

I will make sure to take pics and document it. Likely to take some time but will be well worth it. Found a t-case for 1100 new and the lift is on autoparts warehouse for 2500 with 400 rebate. Any suggestions on a locker?

 

[Bigunit]

Forum member named Zack might be able to source a OEM Eaton locker for you. ARB lockers are really good but require an on-board air compressor to operate.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapataint

 

[Panzer07]

I will make sure to take pics and document it. Likely to take some time but will be well worth it. Found a t-case for 1100 new and the lift is on autoparts warehouse for 2500 with 400 rebate. Any suggestions on a locker?

4wheelonline.com has the lift for 2,100 free shopping and u still qualify for the rancho rebate something worth looking over Buddy use those extra bucks towards some other parts.


Sent From Someone Else's iPhone 'Cause I'm Too Broke To Own One.

 

[amrg]

4wheelonline.com has the lift for 2,100 free shopping and u still qualify for the rancho rebate something worth looking over Buddy use those extra bucks towards some other parts.


Sent From Someone Else's iPhone 'Cause I'm Too Broke To Own One.

The cheapest I got was $2,065 on JCwhitney. Add a coupon code (its listed on their site) and you get $100 off. Thats $1,965 and free shipping! Planning to go through with them when Im back hone as they quoted me $430 shipping to my location (international).

You would have to make an offer (something below 2k and they will tell the lowest is 2065)