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Spare parts for the trail

08Alpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
62
Location
Central OHIO
Just started doing a few mods to the 3 so I can get it trail ready still have a few things to get. UCP and sliders top the list. I am also wanting to put together a spare parts kit. I have seen the carnage with Busted tierods, hoses and such.
I'm looking for some input.
 

Pappibri

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,611
Location
Cohoctah, MI
First things first is like you said.. UCP and Sliders.. have to protect the belly of the beast.. I think a length of hose, tie rods and maybe a spare rack... I guess a extra serpentine belt might come in hand, and it dont take up no space.
 

08Alpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
62
Location
Central OHIO
Thanks, ya space would be the issue. But I guess I could always get a roof rack. Haha something else for the list. I thought I would lift the hood get some ideas of "what would leave me or someone stranded". Tie rods would be good idea.
Does the H3 have a lot of Metric hardware?, I found out the mount bolts for the Nerf bars were metric:whaa:
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,558
Location
Arizona
Pretty much all metric.

A spare half shaft is highly recommended for any trail ride.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapataint
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,564
Location
Scottsdale
Spares I carry: half shaft, tie rods, u-joint (small, lightweight). I will sometimes carry Bigunit's spare steering rack but less inclined to do so now as the Scorpworks steering rack mount is working so well. Really, you need things that can break on the trail but are reasonable to carry. For example, a front diff or transfer case may fail but those aren't reasonable to carry. Other things might fail, like a driveshaft, but you can get off the trail without those items.

Besides spares, you need the specific tools to do those repairs: 35mm socket for the hub nut (and test fit it first as some sockets fit, others don't); 21 mm open end wrench for the inner tie rod nut; 21mm deep socket for tie rod end nut; 24 mm socket and box end wrench for the steering rack; tie rod puller or small sledge to loosen tie rod end and ball joints for tie rod and half shaft replacement; breaker bar and/or impact with a lot of torque; bungee cords to hold stuff out of your way during these repairs; deep socket for ball joint nuts (forget the size - 21mm or 22mm?); spare fluids: brake, power steering, engine oil, grease (which can be used in the diff, at least to get you off the trail), water.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,437
Location
Meridian, ID
halfshaft 2 tie rods and thats about it. Tools and directions on how to change em if you dont know how.
 

jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,051
Location
Cabool MO
I would add a good pry bar for pulling the half shaft out of the front dif. After this trip it showed a few tools I was missing. Alex
gave a good list of needed things in his post.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,564
Location
Scottsdale
We got a good tip from Dwaine regarding pulling the half shafts it should be pulled from opposite sides at the same time so it is pulled straight out. It would come out more easily that way
 

jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,051
Location
Cabool MO
That's why I wedged the screw driver in on the top side and had the pry bay on the bottom. Snap on tools has a nice 36 or 42" pry bar that would make it much easier. There will be one with me next time.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,219
Location
Tardville
I carried an entire front end. Sounds crazy but its actually very small and light-weight, once you knock it down by components. It all fit in a single surplus Pelican case:

A pre-assembled spare AAM-7 with correct gearing.
Spare half-shafts.
Spare inner stub shaft for the drivers side.
Spare steering rack.
Spare outer tie-rods.
Spare front driveshaft.
Spare CV boots.
CV-grease.
Tools for swapping everything.
Two jugs of gear lube.
Two jugs of PS fluid.
Hand cleaner & shop towels.
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,558
Location
Arizona
Inner tie rods - where they thread into the outer tie rod, is where I have seen them fail.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapataint
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,558
Location
Arizona
IMO ABN, 4 reasons: (1) price - way too expensive for (2) replacing a stock part that can break but in fact, very few will break (a lot of tie rods failures went away when GM replaced the 14mm rods with the 16mm rods on the H3 (3) changing the tie rods (both inner & outer) if one breaks is not very difficult to do if you do break one on a trail; and (4) OEM tie rods are not very expensive to replace.
 

ABNTROOP

HIPPO
Messages
1,985
Location
Vancouver, Wa
When did the upgrade from 14 to 16 occur? I had gotten the impression that it was a recurringly weak part poking my nose around the forum.
 

DJinCO

Well-Known Member
The web site for BulletProof is a not the best I have seen. Hard for me to really understand what I need and what the cost is for those items. May be a fantastic product but the web site tells me too difficult to maneuver so I may just steer-clear (pun intended) and go with something else.
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
Wouldn't putting the bulletproof tie rods on put more strain on the already weak point, the rack? You don't bend or break the tie rod, it goes to the next weak spot, right? Kind of like the H2's with the half shafts. Correct me if I'm wrong. In just a dumb H2 guy lol
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,219
Location
Tardville
Oh, and pack 4speedfunk in a large Pelican case, with air holes

I'm cool with that...just remember to give me one of those little gerbil water tubes to suck on. And maybe some wood chips just in case I gotta go dooky.
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,558
Location
Arizona
When did the upgrade from 14 to 16 occur? I had gotten the impression that it was a recurringly weak part poking my nose around the forum.
The '06 and early '07's had the 14mm tie rods. The change-over to 16mm happened sometime in '07.
 
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