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H3T Sure doesn't look like 35s fit...

FactoryOrdered2010AlphaT

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
Location
Canada
35 x 12.50 R18...

WhoSaid35sFit_1.jpg

WhoSaid35sFit_2.jpg

This is a stock H3T Alpha that came with 285 75 R16. The t-bars have never been touched and I measure 21" from the H in the original hub up the fender. Should I bother trying to crank them up? I can live without the mud flaps.

(And before you ask, that wheel color is called 'chrome' but at night it totally looks black so...don't hate!)
 

mjferencak

Well-Known Member
Messages
308
Location
Elbert, CO
Might have to crank the T bars. I would have stayed with 16”personally but each his own. I run 35s with the factory rims with no issues except the inability to turn full lock. I wonder if after removing the mud flap if you’ll still rub when the suspension compresses?


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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,413
Location
Way up north, UT
Not really sure, but those wheels look like they have the wrong offset. Cranking the torsion bars will probably help, but to my untrained eye the wheels are out too far which is going to increase the swing of the outer edge of the tire and cause clearance issues.

Also the mud flaps are probably eating some of the clearance you normally have.


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FactoryOrdered2010AlphaT

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
Location
Canada
the wrong offset.

They're only +15 and factory rims were +38. So it was coming into contact with the calipers without the spacers, which are 1.5" (38mm.) They are 'far out'...by the +15, and then by those tires are wider by another +16 on each side (than stock 285s), if I understand the math. Seems like more than +31 sticking out there though. Math is hard.


WhoSaid35sFit_3.jpg
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
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As others have said, you have several reasons for the rubbing but first, get your truck leveled abit. At 21" center of hub to fender you are 2"-2.5" below what is considered a leveled height (you can go up to 24" but you risk alot of wear on your suspension, axles).
I am running +10 offset with 35s. That pushes the wheel 28mm out. In your case +15mm has the wheel out 23mm. I had to remove my mud flap as it robbed me of 0.5" clearance.

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alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,460
Location
Scottsdale
I've run 35s on OEM rims with OEM mudflaps with no issues. Looking at that last pic, that offset is pretty significant and it will stress your front end, including your steering rack. If you take this H3 off road, please be sure to reinforce that steering rack if you have not done so already. We watched one H3 with wheels offset like that break his rack on his first trail with the new wheels.
 

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
Wide tires + spacers = way too much offset, lots of rub. Crank the torsion bars and lose the mudflaps before they get ripped off. I don't see how the wheels would be coming into contact with the calipers 18" wheels have plenty of space between wheel and caliper.
 

FactoryOrdered2010AlphaT

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
Location
Canada
cracked anything

Err...I meant cranking - did you have to raise the front by cranking the T-bars.

Is that Wrangler Duratrac LT 35X12.50R18 or LT 35X12.50R17, in case inquiring minds want to know? Either way Goodyear shows 34.8 x 12.50...

Nitto Ridge Grappler 35x12.50R18LT shows 34.76 x 12.52 inflated...

...ET18 without spacers? The XD134 ADDICT 2 must have a generous amount of space compared to what I'm trying to fit.
 

FactoryOrdered2010AlphaT

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
Location
Canada
Crank the torsion bars and lose the mudflaps before they get ripped off.

So far no-one 'here' has said not too... I guess since it's reversible I should at least try. Will see if I can find a private shop willing to give it a go. It's that or back down to 33 or 34. Maybe the change in stance alone will be enough to keep me 'entertained' for a year or two while I sort out reinforcing the steering rack and replacing the original factory shocks.
 

mjferencak

Well-Known Member
Messages
308
Location
Elbert, CO
Yea I like side wall too but there aren't a lot of nice looking after market 16's out there. And for 16 Nitto only makes 265 (boring) and 285 (been there x 9 years). Where's the fun in that?

I run the Nitto Terra 315/75/16 which are 34.49. Might want to go that route or do the SAS


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mjferencak

Well-Known Member
Messages
308
Location
Elbert, CO
Solid Axle Swap (SAS). A member on here, Thor, does a SAS kit for these trucks. Look him up on YouTube.


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FactoryOrdered2010AlphaT

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
Location
Canada
no rub of any kind - works and fits perfectly!

Hey denlion, if you get a chance can you measure from the center of the wheel hub up to the wheel well. I hung a tape measure off a straight edge held to the inside of the wheel well and it's 21 on both sides.

Anyone else got a second to measure?

Thanks in advance for the feedback.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,413
Location
Way up north, UT
They're only +15 and factory rims were +38. So it was coming into contact with the calipers without the spacers, which are 1.5" (38mm.) They are 'far out'...by the +15, and then by those tires are wider by another +16 on each side (than stock 285s), if I understand the math. Seems like more than +31 sticking out there though. Math is hard.

So if the wheels you have are a +15 offset, and you added a 38mm spacer, you turned them into a -23 offset which is why they are sticking out so much. Offset is measured like this:

ATV-Wheel-Offset-Explaination-1024x768.jpg

The more positive offset a wheel has, the farther into the wheel the axle hub is. The more negative the offset, the less the axle hub sticks into the wheel. You gave yourself negative offset so the axle hub isn't in as far as it should be for proper fitment and suspension/steering geometry. If your wheels were already +15, then that is 23mm too little offset from where they should be, depending on the width . If these 18" wheels with only a +15 offset were hitting the rotors, even if the rim is a 12" or so wide rim, they should easily clear the calipers. The factory aluminum wheels are 16" x 7.5" and clear the calipers just fine. Looking more closely at your pictures, I have a feeling the wheels are hitting the face of the calipers with the spokes, rather than the inner circumference of the wheel as one usually sees. This would explain needing a spacer to move the wheels out far enough so that the spokes aren't hitting the calipers.

Truthfully, you need to return those wheels and get some that fit correctly. There is no valid reason 18" wheels should not fit correctly aside from the issues of improper offset and insufficient clearance between the spokes and the calipers. If you bought those from a wheel shop (either online or locally) then they did you a huge disservice by selling you wheels that did not properly fit for the application.
 

lancej70

Probationary Member
Messages
2
Location
Las Vegas, NV
I have 20x10 -18 offset / 35x12.5x20 and have no rubbing issues in drive. Reversing my Rt front wheel rubs when turning 1 turn to the Rt on the outside of the tire on the rocker. I'm cranked to 23.5" Crank it up and get rid of the spacers and you should be fine with a positive offset.
offset
4d8f50fb01662e0c8c6d43e6b9e2cd4d.jpg
911c8d408242a33c71f50e939b52b9e8.jpg


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FactoryOrdered2010AlphaT

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
Location
Canada
To quote the mechanic, after cranking it up even further during my second trip there today: "I've giv'n her all she's got captain, an' I canna give her no more."

Such a tight fit with the swing from this bolt-on spacer. We may try something different later but these rims require something to clear the calipers. May have to trim/remove the flaps in the interim. But...I think we're going to run with this setup rather than dropping back down to 305's

Stay tuned kids!
 
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Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
Maybe I missed it but why not just have them mount wheels that fit properly? A -12 or -18 offset wheel is what most wind up with when using aftermarket wheels.
 

amrg

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1.5" plus your current wheels are alot. If you really dont want to change the wheels or remove the spacers (or go with thinner spacers) then your options are limited to removing the mud flap, cutting the body or doing a body lift.

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