H3 Temp gauge and ac off.

[Lewiz VenomH3]

Yesterday while driving home my 07 h3. I got a message on the dash. It said engine hot. The temp gauge started bouncing all over the place. Outside temp was about 90°.

This morning as soon as I turned the key,the temp shot up again. Same message Came up. As i was driving to work. I got another message. Ac off. I asked some friends. They said might be the thermostat. I bought one which I will install tomorrow. Another possibility might be the coolonat temp sensor.

Can anyone shine any light on my problem and possibly any more input?

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[f5moab]

Gauge reading was bouncing all around? At first thought that almost sounds like air in the coolant system. Did you have any work done on the engine or cooling system? An air pocket moving through the cooling system will cause the temp sensor to go up/down when the pocket goes past the sensor. However, a faulty sensor as well as a bad wiring/connector can do the same. Usually a faulty thermostat will either cause the temps to go up (always closed) and stay up, or down and stay down (always open).
However, a bad sensor should set a code. The PCM looks at the initial start up values of the air temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor and if it has been over a set time period (about 8 hours), they are usually extremely close. So if the coolant sensor is way off and does not make sense (too high at a startup) a code is set.

 

[Lewiz VenomH3]

Gauge reading was bouncing all around? At first thought that almost sounds like air in the coolant system. Did you have any work done on the engine or cooling system? An air pocket moving through the cooling system will cause the temp sensor to go up/down when the pocket goes past the sensor. However, a faulty sensor as well as a bad wiring/connector can do the same. Usually a faulty thermostat will either cause the temps to go up (always closed) and stay up, or down and stay down (always open).
However, a bad sensor should set a code. The PCM looks at the initial start up values of the air temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor and if it has been over a set time period (about 8 hours), they are usually extremely close. So if the coolant sensor is way off and does not make sense (too high at a startup) a code is set.

I replaced the thermostat and coolant temp sensor yesterday. Seems to be running fine.

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[alrock]

Glad to hear

 

[Lewiz VenomH3]

Well now I have another issue. Sent to another group on facebook

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[awalsh]

I'd put new terminals on the battery, had the same issue once where it stalled out on me. A few days later wouldn't start. Ever since putting on new terminals I haven't had a problem since


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[Lewiz VenomH3]

Had another issue during a road trip. I am in Wichita Kansas. I drove to broken arrow Oklahoma this weekend.
While over there I left the stereo on and it drained the battery.
I have it a jump start and it started just fine. Drove about 2 blocks and it stalled on me.
Gave it another jump start and it just wouldn't take a charge anymore.
Bought a new battery started just fine. Started on my drive back home and about 2 hrs into the trip it stalled again.
Battery drained once again.
It was late so I called a tow truck. Luckily i was 30 min away from home.

I originally thought It was the battery because it looked swollen and wouldn't hold a charge. Took the alternator to get checked. It was the alternator aswell.
Found a alternator and replaced on Saturday. Left the battery charging for most if the day on trickle charge.
Seems to be running ok. But every once in a while when I accelerate it runs rough for a few secs again.

I had that message on pic come up after the alternator was replaced. After charging I took it for a drive seems ok. Still alil paranoid when driving it. Wish me luck

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[650Hawk]

Keep in mind that sometimes, the message on the DIC can point you towards something that is not relevant to the actual problem. I have learned that many engine issues will often trigger the Reduced Power, Traction Failed, and Service Stabilitrac messages. The way it was explained to me is that if something causes the reduced power mode, the computer will then trigger the others since it assumes that you no longer need Traction Control, Stabilitrac, even ABS...yes, stupid, but...perhaps kind of a "safe" mode minimizing complex systems?

First things first...replace the battery terminals with some good ones. Then move forward from there. That alone has solved so many issues with the H3 that it is amazing.