58Bisc
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Now that Thor is no longer around, we will be seeing used bumpers bought and sold. With this in mind, I thought I would do an install thread with pictures based off of the Thor instructions.
THORparts Front Bumper Installation…
Like most off-road specific parts, installation requires some factory
parts to be removed and some parts to be modified.
Before beginning…take a quick look and make sure your bumper has arrived in one
piece.
Depending what options you have ordered…your bumper should come with all the
necessary mounting hardware taped to each individual part. The hardware should remain
associated with its particular part to avoid confusion during assembly. Please read the
directions thoroughly before beginning. You will need only basic hand tools, a drill, and
some sort of cutting device to trim the plastic inner fenders (cut-off wheel).
Step 1. Disassembly…
The installation is much easier if you strip the entire nose off your H3. This
includes the bumper, the plastic filler piece directly above it, and the chrome
grille itself. All of these pieces get replaced except for the stock chrome grille.
Begin by removing the chrome grille. It uses a combination of 10mm bolts and
plastic snap-clips. Exploded diagrams of your truck can be found on the internet
in numerous locations.
Next remove the front skid plate from the underside of the truck. The THORparts
bumper does not accept GM’s later (08-10) style skid plates. GM’s early style
(06-07) skid plates will work with some modifications. For this reason
THORparts offers its own skidplate that fits correctly right out of the box. If you
cannot find an early skidplate or don’t want to mess with making it fit…drop
THORparts an email. We keep skidplates in stock.
Next remove the Tow-Hooks, the stock sheet-metal bumper, and the plastic filler
panel. You’ll want to un-bolt the stock driving lights from the filler panel, and reuse
them in the THORparts light pods (if purchased). Carefully un-plug the stock
wiring serving these lamps, and tape the pigtails up and out of the way.
Once you have the outer parts removed...the stock plastic shroud around the
radiator must be removed. This is held in place against the radiator support with
small plastic clips, and comes off without much issue.
On 2008 - 2010 models...you'll have to remove the radiator crash bar that sits
behind the stock bumper. It simply un-bolts from the frame rails.
Next, you’ll need to re-route the refrigerant line that crosses in front of the
radiator. Do not separate or break any AC hose connections…as this line can be
moved without affecting your AC system. Simply unbolt the vertical brace that
the hood latch is attached to. This brace can then be re-installed with AC hose
behind it, rather than in front of it. This will allow more room for the THORparts
grille to be installed. This brace also makes a great location to mount your winch
controller (see Step 4).
At this point the front of your H3 should be stripped down to the radiator support
and its ready to start bolting on new parts.
Step 2. Installation of the bumper…
Begin by test-fitting the THORparts bumper to the frame rails. This should be
done without your winch mounted to it. At this point, it is easiest to forego the
tow-hooks and simply use a couple of the stock mounting bolts to hold the
bumper in place. It helps to have a buddy nearby as the bumper is quite heavy.
After getting a couple bolts installed into the frame rail flanges…install the (4)
supplied bolts, nuts, and fender washers into the rear portion of the bumper.
These will help to pull the bumper into its final position. Get the bumper
positioned to your liking and make sure it is sitting level and true. It is
recommended that you temporarily re-install your chrome grille, and take a few
measurements to make sure you get the bumper on straight.
Step 3. Installation of the grille…
Unlike other designs…the THORparts bumper has a separate grille (and light
pods, if purchased) that mounts directly to the body of the truck, and it does not
get connected to the bumper at all. Start by placing the grille piece on top of the
bumper you just installed. You’ll immediately notice several items that need
addressed.
The grille is designed to have a gap between its bottom and the top of the bumper.
This is because the body of the H3 is mounted in rubber bushings and flexes
separately from the frame. Use some spacers to maintain approximately ½” of
space between the bumper and the grille. This will position your grille at the
correct height and you can mark the locations of the (4) mounting studs.
The grille mounts to the radiator support with (4) ¼”-20 studs. Holes must be
drilled to do this. A 5/16” bit and a power drill works great. If you need to adjust
the gap between the bumper and the grille…a round file can be used to elongate
the holes and give you some adjustment. It’s a good idea to paint the exposed
metal where you drilled holes to prevent rusting.
Also, notice that the plastic inner fenders will need to be trimmed. These are
commonly cracked or broken from hitting water puddles at high speed...and many
owners will notice cracks along the front edge of them. So, trimming them is
sometimes a good idea just to clean up the jagged edges. A substantial part of
each of the inner fenders will need to be removed. How much trimming is
required, is up to each individual. A Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel works
great, and the plastic can be cleanly cut. Go slowly and remember…you can
always trim more away…but you can’t put it back on.
Test fit your grille onto the radiator support. It is easier to access the studs by
loosening the inner fenders where they attach to the truck. This will allow you to
get a hand in behind them and install a flat-washer and nylon locknut onto each
stud. Some H3 owners will notice a conflict where the rigid AC line enters the
radiator support. If so, this line must be re-shaped to clear the new grille. The
line is aluminum tubing and it can be bent with your bare hands. Be sure not to
kink or crimp the tubing, or your AC system will loose its charge. Bend the line
only enough to clear the new grille.
If you purchased the optional light pods with your bumper kit…now is a good
time to install them. Each pod attaches to the grille with (4) ¼”-20 bolts, nuts,
and washers. You may notice additional trimming of the inner fenders is required
as you put the pods in place. The lighting pigtails that you tied up previously can
now be rerouted down and through the oval window in backside of each pod. The
wiring is held to the radiator support with plastic clips, and you’ll have to cut
these to get the extra slack needed to reach the new pods.
Install your stock lamps into the pods using the (3) 10-32 screws provided.
The face of the pods must be removed/installed with a twisting motion, to allow the
internal tabs to clear the opening. Its tight…but be patient, they do fit.
If you did not purchase light pods…install the blank-off plates to cover the holes
in your THORparts grille. Pods can be purchased easily added at a later date.
Check to make sure all fasteners are tightened, and that the grille fits snuggly and
does not rattle. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN! Small ¼” fasteners do not need
more than 10 ft.-lbs of torque.
THORparts Front Bumper Installation…
Like most off-road specific parts, installation requires some factory
parts to be removed and some parts to be modified.
Before beginning…take a quick look and make sure your bumper has arrived in one
piece.
Depending what options you have ordered…your bumper should come with all the
necessary mounting hardware taped to each individual part. The hardware should remain
associated with its particular part to avoid confusion during assembly. Please read the
directions thoroughly before beginning. You will need only basic hand tools, a drill, and
some sort of cutting device to trim the plastic inner fenders (cut-off wheel).
Step 1. Disassembly…
The installation is much easier if you strip the entire nose off your H3. This
includes the bumper, the plastic filler piece directly above it, and the chrome
grille itself. All of these pieces get replaced except for the stock chrome grille.
Begin by removing the chrome grille. It uses a combination of 10mm bolts and
plastic snap-clips. Exploded diagrams of your truck can be found on the internet
in numerous locations.
Next remove the front skid plate from the underside of the truck. The THORparts
bumper does not accept GM’s later (08-10) style skid plates. GM’s early style
(06-07) skid plates will work with some modifications. For this reason
THORparts offers its own skidplate that fits correctly right out of the box. If you
cannot find an early skidplate or don’t want to mess with making it fit…drop
THORparts an email. We keep skidplates in stock.
Next remove the Tow-Hooks, the stock sheet-metal bumper, and the plastic filler
panel. You’ll want to un-bolt the stock driving lights from the filler panel, and reuse
them in the THORparts light pods (if purchased). Carefully un-plug the stock
wiring serving these lamps, and tape the pigtails up and out of the way.
Once you have the outer parts removed...the stock plastic shroud around the
radiator must be removed. This is held in place against the radiator support with
small plastic clips, and comes off without much issue.
On 2008 - 2010 models...you'll have to remove the radiator crash bar that sits
behind the stock bumper. It simply un-bolts from the frame rails.
Next, you’ll need to re-route the refrigerant line that crosses in front of the
radiator. Do not separate or break any AC hose connections…as this line can be
moved without affecting your AC system. Simply unbolt the vertical brace that
the hood latch is attached to. This brace can then be re-installed with AC hose
behind it, rather than in front of it. This will allow more room for the THORparts
grille to be installed. This brace also makes a great location to mount your winch
controller (see Step 4).
At this point the front of your H3 should be stripped down to the radiator support
and its ready to start bolting on new parts.
Step 2. Installation of the bumper…
Begin by test-fitting the THORparts bumper to the frame rails. This should be
done without your winch mounted to it. At this point, it is easiest to forego the
tow-hooks and simply use a couple of the stock mounting bolts to hold the
bumper in place. It helps to have a buddy nearby as the bumper is quite heavy.
After getting a couple bolts installed into the frame rail flanges…install the (4)
supplied bolts, nuts, and fender washers into the rear portion of the bumper.
These will help to pull the bumper into its final position. Get the bumper
positioned to your liking and make sure it is sitting level and true. It is
recommended that you temporarily re-install your chrome grille, and take a few
measurements to make sure you get the bumper on straight.
Step 3. Installation of the grille…
Unlike other designs…the THORparts bumper has a separate grille (and light
pods, if purchased) that mounts directly to the body of the truck, and it does not
get connected to the bumper at all. Start by placing the grille piece on top of the
bumper you just installed. You’ll immediately notice several items that need
addressed.
The grille is designed to have a gap between its bottom and the top of the bumper.
This is because the body of the H3 is mounted in rubber bushings and flexes
separately from the frame. Use some spacers to maintain approximately ½” of
space between the bumper and the grille. This will position your grille at the
correct height and you can mark the locations of the (4) mounting studs.
The grille mounts to the radiator support with (4) ¼”-20 studs. Holes must be
drilled to do this. A 5/16” bit and a power drill works great. If you need to adjust
the gap between the bumper and the grille…a round file can be used to elongate
the holes and give you some adjustment. It’s a good idea to paint the exposed
metal where you drilled holes to prevent rusting.
Also, notice that the plastic inner fenders will need to be trimmed. These are
commonly cracked or broken from hitting water puddles at high speed...and many
owners will notice cracks along the front edge of them. So, trimming them is
sometimes a good idea just to clean up the jagged edges. A substantial part of
each of the inner fenders will need to be removed. How much trimming is
required, is up to each individual. A Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel works
great, and the plastic can be cleanly cut. Go slowly and remember…you can
always trim more away…but you can’t put it back on.
Test fit your grille onto the radiator support. It is easier to access the studs by
loosening the inner fenders where they attach to the truck. This will allow you to
get a hand in behind them and install a flat-washer and nylon locknut onto each
stud. Some H3 owners will notice a conflict where the rigid AC line enters the
radiator support. If so, this line must be re-shaped to clear the new grille. The
line is aluminum tubing and it can be bent with your bare hands. Be sure not to
kink or crimp the tubing, or your AC system will loose its charge. Bend the line
only enough to clear the new grille.
If you purchased the optional light pods with your bumper kit…now is a good
time to install them. Each pod attaches to the grille with (4) ¼”-20 bolts, nuts,
and washers. You may notice additional trimming of the inner fenders is required
as you put the pods in place. The lighting pigtails that you tied up previously can
now be rerouted down and through the oval window in backside of each pod. The
wiring is held to the radiator support with plastic clips, and you’ll have to cut
these to get the extra slack needed to reach the new pods.
Install your stock lamps into the pods using the (3) 10-32 screws provided.
The face of the pods must be removed/installed with a twisting motion, to allow the
internal tabs to clear the opening. Its tight…but be patient, they do fit.
If you did not purchase light pods…install the blank-off plates to cover the holes
in your THORparts grille. Pods can be purchased easily added at a later date.
Check to make sure all fasteners are tightened, and that the grille fits snuggly and
does not rattle. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN! Small ¼” fasteners do not need
more than 10 ft.-lbs of torque.
