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H3 Transfer case issues

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
Drove to Daytona airport to pick up my girlfriend a few nights ago and started feeling a weird vibration, looked under and oil was everywhere. Towed it home and after investigating the rear output shaft on the t-case has a ton of play. Just need some advice on what should be replaced so I don't get robbed by having to buy a new t-case.
I have a video but it won't upload so here's a pic. IMG_3362.JPG


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Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
667
Location
Yucaipa & Santa Maria
If I'm not mistaken it looks like the bearing spun out of the case past the seal. The output housing may be replaceable; depends on the condition of the output shaft also. Also check the U-joints.
 

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
If I'm not mistaken it looks like the bearing spun out of the case past the seal. The output housing may be replaceable; depends on the condition of the output shaft also. Also check the U-joints.

Hopefully it is, u-joint is shot and what caused the problem. Thanks for the input.


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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Holy smokes! That’s the output bushing. Looks like it has walked clear out of the housing. Never seen that one before.

Rear half of the case is probably junk from the bushing spinning in the hole. Hard to say until you take it apart.
 

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
Holy smokes! That’s the output bushing. Looks like it has walked clear out of the housing. Never seen that one before.

Rear half of the case is probably junk from the bushing spinning in the hole. Hard to say until you take it apart.

Yeah I was surprised to see that also, hopefully since it cleared the housing it didn't ruin the rear half but we shall see


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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
A trick I use on stuff like this...
I take a small punch and peen the area of the case, where the bushing spun. Basically I add a bunch of small dimples into the aluminum ID, so the new bushing OD fits tighter. When you press-in the new bushing, the dimples grip it tighter and keep it from spinning. I use this same method quite often on Dana hubs. Sometimes the races fit too loosely in them...so the dimple-peen trick keeps me from throwing away an otherwise perfectly usable hub.
 

jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,056
Location
Cabool MO
Locktite green retaining compound is to glue races in. When mine came out the new bushing was real sloppy in the old case half. But I installed a rebuilt 4:1. I glued a new output bushing in it before I installed it. I had to replace the slip yoke on the driveshaft because it was chewed up too.

They sell the rear half of the case new on Ebay pretty cheap.
 

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
Locktite green retaining compound is to glue races in. When mine came out the new bushing was real sloppy in the old case half. But I installed a rebuilt 4:1. I glued a new output bushing in it before I installed it. I had to replace the slip yoke on the driveshaft because it was chewed up too.

They sell the rear half of the case new on Ebay pretty cheap.

Can you link the rear half in case I need it?


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awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
Shop said rear half is bored out 1/8inch and the new bushing won't fit even if they use the green locktite. They said they would put in a new t-case for $2600 but that's not an option. So my only and final option is the rear half of the t-case but the shop doesn't want to do it. I can tow it somewhere that is willing to do it or if I feel assured I can tackle it myself that could also be an option. How hard is it? I'd be fine with taking it on at home but my lack of tools still worries me

Update: bushing screwed up the t-case so now my option is to put in a used t-case. Anyone have any advice for looking for one? Should I consider doing a 4.10 instead of what is on my truck now.


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Last edited:

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Clamp the case to a mill, and clean up the scarred bore. Then press-in a sleeve. Then finish mill the ID of the sleeve to fit the OD of the new bushing. Then press-in the new bushing and put it back together.
$2600 for a new t-case is crazy. You can get used ones for $500-$900.
 
Last edited:

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
Clamp the case to a mill, and clean up the scarred bore. Then press-in a sleeve. Then finish mill the ID of the sleeve to fit the OD of the new bushing. Then press-in the new bushing and put it back together.
$2600 for a new t-case is crazy. You can get used ones for $500-$900.

sadly the shop wasn't willing to do anything other else than a new t-case but my cousin has a connect with jasper and got me a rebuilt case for $1100



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jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,056
Location
Cabool MO
I know when that happened to mine the drive shaft slip yoke and rear case half were junk. I saved the whole transfercase for a later project, still have not opened it to see what else was damaged. Bought a 4:1 case on Ebay for $400 and put a new chain and bushings in it. So the rebuilt 4:1 case probably cost me about $700 and that was with me doing all the work.
 

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
I know when that happened to mine the drive shaft slip yoke and rear case half were junk. I saved the whole transfercase for a later project, still have not opened it to see what else was damaged. Bought a 4:1 case on Ebay for $400 and put a new chain and bushings in it. So the rebuilt 4:1 case probably cost me about $700 and that was with me doing all the work.

Good to know and honestly I don't have the time with school and all to dig myself into it, hoping everything ends up good now


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