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Tube Doors write-up

SlcHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
368
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
Finally doing a write-up of a set of tube doors I put on for the past few months, similar to Acer4LO's great write-up (http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13328-Hummer-H3-Tube-Doors-Acer4LO).

First off, a couple of things I plan on addressing on these doors, hopefully soon;

1) The mirrors that came with them are too low for best visibility, at least for me (shorty here).
2) Requires using all 4 tube doors. Ideally I'd like to be able to keep the back doors on to give my dogs better shade and protection. I need to do exact measurements but I believe the tabs at the end of the front doors can be cut off to allow this.
3) Rear tube doors only have two mounting points (top and middle) for front part of the rear fender and seems too flimpsy for high wind speeds. As an interim fix I used plexiglass to give the bottom stablilty but plan on trying to do some additional welding to help.

Pics of the bare tube doors and how they are mounted, etc;

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Pics of the passenger side where I've added some some safari nets from https://www.safaristraps.com, links provided below;

Front Door - https://www.safaristraps.com/2-cargo-net-medium-41x24/
Rear Door - https://www.safaristraps.com/2-cargo-net-24x24/

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Pic showing that the line up of the rear fender was not perfect but close enough for me after trying to adjust it for too long;
IMG_1162.jpg


Also, if anyone is wondering, the Cabela seat covers I picked up for $20 a seat has already proven itself to be waterproof as advertised. I parked on the street at a friends house who ended up having sprinklers that soaked part of my interior :(. And then just this past Wednesday I got stuck in some heavy rain for about 10 minutes and these seat covers were amazing!
 

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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Illinois
RE: 1.) I do agree with you about the mirrors. They sit way too low. I think the best fix for this would be to move them straight up from where you have them. Pretty easy fix actually. Cut a piece of metal to fits that shape, weld it on, drill 2 new holes, paint the thing and you’re done.

RE: 2.) I also agree with ya on this. I don’t think cutting off that little bit at the end of the front tube door will be that noticeable. Having the option to keep the back doors on is a huge plus. There has been times in the past where I only took my front doors off because taking the back ones off were just more work, especially if you are keeping them off for the weekend.

RE 3.) Definitely looks like you are going to to weld more mounting points, even if it's just one. When you go to make your permanent setup, you might want to cover the entire back of the fender so mud, dirt, and what not doesn't start collecting back there. You make it out of metal and attach it to the tube door it might help to reinforce it and make it stronger. I would like to do something like this in the future, but I first need to find myself a spare set of fender quarter panels. Not really interested spending $200 per flare so I will have to find them at a junkyard or somewhere else that they are cheap.



Another thing you might want to address is the door sensors. From the looks of it, you are using gaff tape to push down your door sensor buttons. I would weld a little tubular tab on to the doors that automatically press down the button when you close the door, similar to mine. For me the little creature comfort of having working dome lights go on/off is a big plus.

Also quick question. Are the doors mounted to the body by sandwiching the tube door mount in between the factory hinge mount and the body?

BTW this seat covers actually look really good. I'm actually surprised that you could get good of quality for such little. Obviously not perfect fit, but it looks like it does the job well if you don't want to spend $500 dollars on CoverKing seat covers.
 

SlcHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
368
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
Also quick question. Are the doors mounted to the body by sandwiching the tube door mount in between the factory hinge mount and the body?

If I understand the question correctly, no. You simply open the OEM doors, remove the 4 bolts that are easily accessible and bolt these into those same holes.


BTW this seat covers actually look really good. I'm actually surprised that you could get good of quality for such little. Obviously not perfect fit, but it looks like it does the job well if you don't want to spend $500 dollars on CoverKing seat covers.

Yeah, I've bought other seat covers that I ripped out the same day because of poor quality or simply because they'd attract dog hair and required elbow grease to remove it. These seat covers whisk all that crap away, especially with no doors lol.
 
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