What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

[H3Hummer]

Very nice black one

 

[Maria80386]

Put new front ends on both. About 8k each. Did a new seat cushion and leather cover for the driver’s seat in the Alpha. New front and rear cameras in both, front windshields with tint, a little more tint on the front side indows, and new front speakers on the Champ.
Gave both a spa day for a total detail. Forgot to get a pic while both were clean.

 

[Schwarttzy]

Fresh powder coating on the OEM H3 Bull Bar and tow hooks

 

[H3Hummer]

wow, shiny and bette than new

 

[rascole]

Took my son and a co-worker to Big Bear and ran Gold Mountain, I gotta stop letting him drive, it gets tiring running around spotting. Had to stop at RTI Rock for a poser shot.

 

[06 H3]

How’s SAS life @rascole

 

[rascole]

Loving it, wish I had it out more. New LS will be done soon then the swap journey begins.

 

[zebra]

just replaced a cracked heater core outlet fitting.
should hold coolant from now on & stop spraying it all over the cat / O2 sensors

 

[650Hawk]

Finally got around to changing out the trans fluid/filter (170,000 miles!), but the fluid looked pretty good/red, so I'm guessing that it was done prior to me buying it (at 98,000mi).

 

[Korby7]

First run with the new Mickey Thompsons. WAY better tire than the Federal Couragias I cheaped out on previously trying to save money when I did the straight axle conversion. Super quiet on the road for a mud terrain.

 

[Ranger Tom]

Hello all, new to the forum. I purchased my 07 H3X at the end of June (project vehicle)
So far I have:
Gutted the entire interior, cleaned all metal and back of panels
Taken the seats to the upholstery shop to have new leather put on(still waiting to get them back)
Installed new Sony stereo
Added a backup camera
Fixed all the instrument lights that no longer worked
Fixed the factory stereo harness
Installed the stereo microphone to the onstar mic
Steam cleaned the carpets
Replaced the sunroof motor
Replaced the sunroof seal
Replaced the headliner
Fixed the drains(now go through the floor not the firewall)
Installed a 4:1 transfer case
Installed a tranny cooler
Replaced all drive train fluids front to back
Replaced all driveshaft joints
Currently working on replacing all the lights
Adding a steelcraft winch holder, no winch yet.
New rotors and pads all the way around
Trying to fix the ac
Gobi ordered about 6 weeks ago, still waiting

Hopefully one day I will be able to get on some trails.

 

[Schwarttzy]

This video provides an update on the ongoing development of the 2nd-generation H3 Hummer Rock Slider and its subsequent truck variant, the H3T. Recent testing of the rocker panel protection has confirmed the perfect fit and production readiness of all brackets and ribs. While the full-length step plate prototype requires minor adjustments to meet production standards, including fine-tuning its dimensions, addressing bend limitations, and enhancing its aesthetic appeal, overall progress has been highly positive. We are now nearing the stage of initiating production for these innovative and enhanced rock sliders.

 

[06 H3]

Being bolted to the legs can't the slider pivot off the legs allowing the slider to shift up into the body? If it bolted together up and down, not side to side, it would fix that.

Unless I am not seeing the part that would prevent it from shifting upwards. Cool design and nice to see you still making new things for the H3.

 

[Schwarttzy]

Being bolted to the legs can't the slider pivot off the legs allowing the slider to shift up into the body? If it bolted together up and down, not side to side, it would fix that.

Unless I am not seeing the part that would prevent it from shifting upwards. Cool design and nice to see you still making new things for the H3.

I believe there must be a misunderstanding regarding the design. The term ‘legs’ is unclear. The rock sliders consist of four primary components: brackets, ribs, a step plate, and a skid plate. To maximize the strength-to-weight ratio, I’ve designed an I-beam-like structure. Be assured that these sliders are designed to maintain their position and will not shift upward. I'm confident that the resulting rock sliders will exceed the original design in terms of stability and durability.

 

[H32NV]

I just did a round of maintenance that got to be a deeper rabbit hole than expected. The plan was to flush the transmission fluid, diff fluids, oil and air filter change, and fix a broken leaf. I had my 4l60e replaced under warranty at 66k, there is 155k on the truck now and I haven't flushed it.

1) Remove the front drive shaft to get to the pan to drain it and change the filter. *Noticed that the front drive shaft CV had spun out all its grease. Sent to Bill's Englewood Driveshaft to rebuild.
2) Replaced filter and gasket and flushed ACDelco Dex 6 through until clean. *Wow, shifts better and drives better uphill now.
3) Flushed both diffs with Lucas 75w-90, cast iron mod front diff - open, rear diff e-locker unit. *Replaced rear ring and pinion +bearings/seals last year with Yukon, fluid was dirty but looked like normal wear in. nothing on the magnets.
4) Front diff rattled when going downhill and off accelerator, @4speedfunk told me of a redneck fix to re-tighten the pinion bearing nut on the GM 7.6, worked like a dream.
5a) Had a broken rear leaf for about a year, mid-pack. Replaced both packs with General Spring Catalog packs, somehow the new perch point was 1/2" rear ward and now the tires almost rubbed on the wheel well. *big repair.
5b) Took to Denver Spring and Suspension, they moved the perch point to center, and added +1" arch in the springs which I had done previously and forgot about.
5c) While in the shop at DSS, the starter failed. Go figure.
5d) New starter, new AGM cell battery
6a) Got front driveshaft back from Bill's.
6b) Installed it in the parking lot of Wines of Colorado in Woodland Park, CO (on the way to 4wheel the Alpine Loop with family). It ain't much, but it's honest work. After downing a luxurious lunch I got my hands dirty in the parking lot.
6c) Somehow it was 1/2" longer and wouldn't fit between the front diff yoke and transfer case input flange. I did the trip in 4-HI with RWD only.
7) Took apart the cross member for the front diff once back home, put back together, and somehow it fit again? Just knocked off some rust from scrapes and repainted it.
8) Somehow, with no rock chips at all, last winter I woke up to a crack in the windshield that appeared from nowhere after an arctic blast. Just quoted for a new OEE windshield and it is $318 from Insight Auto Glass.

And now we're ready for the rest of the fall camping season.

With a 3 and 5 year old, the LY6 swap has made no progress. I cannot believe how expensive and time consuming it is to have children these days. the preschool hours are cleverly minimized so that they minimize paying their staff, putting more pressure on parents, preschool pickup is not timed with elementary school even though they are across the street, and a modest preschool in my area is about $1,700 per month per kid part-time, totaling $3,400 per month, our alternative is $4,500/month or $6,000/month. Can't wait for the second one to be in public school, while our minimized elementary hours are a challenge for working parents, we are lucky to have a 9/10 rated school in our front yard. Hoping that budget and time opens up for this.

 

[06 H3]

I believe there must be a misunderstanding regarding the design. The term ‘legs’ is unclear. The rock sliders consist of four primary components: brackets, ribs, a step plate, and a skid plate. To maximize the strength-to-weight ratio, I’ve designed an I-beam-like structure. Be assured that these sliders are designed to maintain their position and will not shift upward. I'm confident that the resulting rock sliders will exceed the original design in terms of stability and durability.

I apologize, I should have used the term bracket. What prevents the slider from pushing upwards off the bracket. Is sheer clamping force of the bolt between the bracket and slider preventing the slider from moving upwards?

Example, can you set the height of the slider, off the bracket or is it preset by keying into other components?

 

[Schwarttzy]

I apologize, I should have used the term bracket. What prevents the slider from pushing upwards off the bracket. Is sheer clamping force of the bolt between the bracket and slider preventing the slider from moving upwards?

Example, can you set the height of the slider, off the bracket or is it preset by keying into other components?

Each set of laser-cut and bent 3/8-inch steel brackets is bolted to the frame rails with 10mm bolts. Two 1/4-inch 5052 aluminum ribs, formerly one 3/8-inch 5052, are bolted together using 2 Grade 8 3/8-inch thick bolts to the brackets, 2 Grade 8 3/8-inch thick bolts to the skid plate, and 1 3/8-inch bolt to the upper step plate. Three of the brackets feature a 1-inch thick 5052 aluminum I-beam style support between the two sets of combined ribs for the skid plate. In total, there are 3.5 inches of ribs supporting the skid plate and 14 3/8-inch grade bolts holding those ribs securely. These rock sliders are pure beef. There is no adjusting of the height.

 

[06 H3]

If you come down on a rock extremely hard what is preventing the slider from shifting upwards? The tension of 2 pieces bolted together or does the leg key into the slider to make it act like 1 unit

 

[Schwarttzy]

If you come down on a rock extremely hard what is preventing the slider from shifting upwards? The tension of 2 pieces bolted together or does the leg key into the slider to make it act like 1 unit

The two 2 Hex Flanged 3/8-16 Grade 8 Bolts you circled in yellow don't allow the rib to move. The hole has maybe 0.01 of an inch of clearance for the bolt to move.

 

[rascole]

The two 2 Hex Flanged 3/8-16 Grade 8 Bolts you circled in yellow don't allow the rib to move. The hole has maybe 0.01 of an inch of clearance for the bolt to move.

I like the modular design, makes for personalizing it easier. For me the aluminum wouldn't last, rocks eat them up pretty quick. I have plenty of friends with alu skids and they get gouged bad. The extra bracket and extra vertical braces seem like they would help distribute the load. Are going to sell the brackets alone as an option?

 

[zebra]

got the catch can installed about a week ago but ain't got around to doing a write-up yet (because there ain't no info on this board about them).

 

[Schwarttzy]

I like the modular design, makes for personalizing it easier. For me the aluminum wouldn't last, rocks eat them up pretty quick. I have plenty of friends with alu skids and they get gouged bad. The extra bracket and extra vertical braces seem like they would help distribute the load. Are going to sell the brackets alone as an option?

Currently, there are no plans to sell the brackets alone but a plan to sell replacement parts is in the works. I'm curious how just the brackets could be useful to you? I have been thinking about the possibility for the summer of 2025 having the option for a steel and aluminum combo of 1/8 steel backed by 1/4 aluminum skid plates for those who think they can destroy my rock sliders. However, I have two thoughts having said that. First, most people need to hold a chunk of 5052 3/8-inch thick aluminum and realize how excessive it feels. Second, as long as the part does its job and demonstrates its durability, gouges should be looked upon as badges of honor. For example, I don't want a knight in shining armor. I want a banged-up, dirty, and well-used knight in armor because I know that they've been dragged through hell and survived.

 

[rascole]

Currently, there are no plans to sell the brackets alone but a plan to sell replacement parts is in the works. I'm curious how just the brackets could be useful to you? I have been thinking about the possibility for the summer of 2025 having the option for a steel and aluminum combo of 1/8 steel backed by 1/4 aluminum skid plates for those who think they can destroy my rock sliders. However, I have two thoughts having said that. First, most people need to hold a chunk of 5052 3/8-inch thick aluminum and realize how excessive it feels. Second, as long as the part does its job and demonstrates its durability, gouges should be looked upon as badges of honor. For example, I don't want a knight in shining armor. I want a banged-up, dirty, and well-used knight in armor because I know that they've been dragged through hell and survived.

Brackets would for those that wish to build the complete slider from steel and to change the design that best suits their needs. Some like the rails close to the body, others like myself like to have them stick out further to protect the expensive doors and fenders from rocks, walls & trees. Also used as a ideal step for reaching the roof rack without having to be a ballerina (tuu tuu's and camping don't mix).
You have made a great design and have done most of the hard part, I bet you would sell a lot of brackets if offered and shipping would be a fraction of the sliders. But, just my 2 cents.

 

[06 H3]

Currently, there are no plans to sell the brackets alone but a plan to sell replacement parts is in the works. I'm curious how just the brackets could be useful to you? I have been thinking about the possibility for the summer of 2025 having the option for a steel and aluminum combo of 1/8 steel backed by 1/4 aluminum skid plates for those who think they can destroy my rock sliders. However, I have two thoughts having said that. First, most people need to hold a chunk of 5052 3/8-inch thick aluminum and realize how excessive it feels. Second, as long as the part does its job and demonstrates its durability, gouges should be looked upon as badges of honor. For example, I don't want a knight in shining armor. I want a banged-up, dirty, and well-used knight in armor because I know that they've been dragged through hell and survived.

While 5052 3/8 may feel excessive. I can promise you it is not. I had rocky road sliders and bent the hell out of them. So, I got a new set, and with an exo cage tying into the frame in multiple spots and also taking load from the slider at the A and B pillar applying it to the cage. I still bent the rocky road sliders.

From there I used the rocky road sliders but cut the 1x1 .188 wall brackets/legs off of them and used (7) 1.5x3 .25wall legs and welded them to the frame. It worked for a year or so but I actually cracked the frame. So all of it came off. welded up the crack.

I did big 3/16 frame plates to distribute the load. then 1.5x3 legs again but then pie cut another 1.5x3 leg and welded the two together to give the legs more strength. That welded to 2x4 .25wall "sliders." Finally after 6 years they are still as straight as they were when I put them on. No cracks at the frame, no bending, no issues.

With that said, I understand the H3 market, does not want or need a weld on option, they do not need beef as much as that but the point of my post is that every time I thought it was sufficent, it wasn't. Bolting aluminum parts together that do not key into each other makes me curious about how they will hold up. 5052 may feel excessive but once you lay a 6k lb rig on it, it wont feel excessive.

 

[Schwarttzy]

While 5052 3/8 may feel excessive. I can promise you it is not. I had rocky road sliders and bent the hell out of them. So, I got a new set, and with an exo cage tying into the frame in multiple spots and also taking load from the slider at the A and B pillar applying it to the cage. I still bent the rocky road sliders.

From there I used the rocky road sliders but cut the 1x1 .188 wall brackets/legs off of them and used (7) 1.5x3 .25wall legs and welded them to the frame. It worked for a year or so but I actually cracked the frame. So all of it came off. welded up the crack.

I did big 3/16 frame plates to distribute the load. then 1.5x3 legs again but then pie cut another 1.5x3 leg and welded the two together to give the legs more strength. That welded to 2x4 .25wall "sliders." Finally after 6 years they are still as straight as they were when I put them on. No cracks at the frame, no bending, no issues.

With that said, I understand the H3 market, does not want or need a weld on option, they do not need beef as much as that but the point of my post is that every time I thought it was sufficent, it wasn't. Bolting aluminum parts together that do not key into each other makes me curious about how they will hold up. 5052 may feel excessive but once you lay a 6k lb rig on it, it wont feel excessive.

I'm not surprised Rock Road's bent up. Before the first H3 Hummer was produced, I knew those sliders wouldn't hold up to much heavy-duty usage. It's partly why I designed mine in the first place. Rock Road and I are not playing the same game.

Anyway, I'm very confident in the design and strength of the 2nd Gen Rock Sliders I have developed. I have 7 sets in production right now and I feel like a child waiting for Christmas day.