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New problem (intermittent clunk / thump directly under arm rest / center console)

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,311
Location
Wisconsin
I've now got a new CV and ujoint to install on my original OEM drive shaft.
So the wasted money on the other shaft is a bit of a pisser.
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,311
Location
Wisconsin
Yes, that is what happens when you get woo 'D by the cheapest prices on Amazon.
Actually, it really is a decent prop shaft just the balance is off. It is really robust and welds are decent.

Today I took the time to rebuild the oem prop shaft. It went pretty well albeit i must have been half asleep as I got the splines off by two lol.
So now instead of an absolutely flat laying prop shaft it is crooked by a few degrees.
I'm not pulling it apart if I can help it because the boot seems pretty fragile.

I took it for a test ride and it seems real smooth.

By the way the CV is a rather interesting design. I pulled it all apart and made certain to grease it with the tube of grease they sent with it. I made triple sure the snap ring was seated and the bolts were re-tourqed after taking my little test drive.
 

H3Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
528
Location
LUXEMBOURG in EU
never enough grease inside, i filled it up until it drop out :wink: like the U joints, once installed, pumped grease in till it ran out of them :)
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
892
Location
WI
Buy the AC Delco drive shaft. Rock Auto. It's made by AAM, an original equipment mfgr for GM which supposedly made the original and wheel hubs. Seemed like good quality to me. Duplicate of original shaft. There's a lot of posts how the aftermarket CV's don't last. I pulled off the u-joint end caps and there seemed to be a decent amt of grease in mine. My original shaft has 185k miles on it and could probably go another 40k. If you peel the GM sticker back, there's an AAM foil and hologramed sticker beneath it.

Oh one thing: For whatever reason, the spread on my new shaft's u-joints was too wide to fit into the yoke saddle. Possibly by about 1.2mm under considerable c-clamp pressure. I guarantee there were NO needles out of position, no grease pressure, no swarf or any debris on the end of the trunions, or inside the caps. I inspected them VERY CAREFULLY multiple times with a small screwdriver, etc. If that were the case it would also be off-set, one side longer than the other (which it wasn't). In the end it was getting late in the day and I just shaved a little off each cap with the cut-off tool and installed it. I could have knocked out my old d/s u-joint since its like a 2yr old greasable Spicer. I'll look into it next summer. Other than that the quality was great.

Drive Shaft Stickerr Pic.jpg
 
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Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,311
Location
Wisconsin
So, took the time today to redo my goof up with being two splines off center on the front drive shaft rebuild. Was an absolute B@@tch but got it done. Added some Lucas Thick and extra tacky (CV grease high speed low sling formula). Man that stuff is goopy lol!
Ugly green color but very tacky.
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,311
Location
Wisconsin
On a side note has anybody noticed play in there output shaft at the back snout on the TC? Mine seems to have a little wiggle to it. Not enough to get me alarmed but just a smidge.
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,311
Location
Wisconsin
So, I did some more research and testing and found out that I had some other issues with my H3. This has been a difficult couple month for more H3 and my Jeep xj. I've literally spent weeks working on both.
I digress. The H3 needed a bunch of diagnosing just to figure out that there were some other related drive train issues. One the front & rear diffs needed to be drained and examined to see if there was anything amiss. Thank God...NO! Whew!
Filled the diffs back up with 75-90Synth gear oil and moved onto looking at the front CV's. They were both intact and no ripped boots/bellows.
Figured if I'm this far into it may as well tear down the front end and check the unitized hubs. The one nearest the drivers side was cr@p. Grinding, scraping and just overall pooched.
Why did I not expect the hubs? They were just replaced with Moog, Timken hubs within the last 12-17K miles. That is why lol.
So that means the go to high end brands have gotten just as unreliable as the cheapy overseas brands.
Ordered up a set of cheapy ones and installed them Wednesday. While I was at it swapped in new ceramic front brake pads.
Test drive proved much more quiet and controlled. That's the good news.

The down side is that I'm probably due for another new set of tires. Ugh!
The tires that are on Happy H3 now cost a bundle and are high end Nokian tires.
There the Rottiva A/T plus eco path and they set me back a bunch. For those who are not familiar with Nokain tyres they are one of the best tire manufactures in the E.U.
They are located in Finland and do a lot of there testing in Siberia. In fact my actual tires came from Russia.
 

A C

Probationary Member
Messages
1
Location
NW Arkansas
Did you ever figure out what was making the noise? I'm having the same issue but mine only occurs on the highway about 70+mph when i hit a bump. I've looked and can’t find anything, and I've had a shop look for it with no luck.
 

Mayfire123

Probationary Member
Messages
2
Location
Wisconsin
So, I did some more research and testing and found out that I had some other issues with my H3. This has been a difficult couple month for more H3 and my Jeep xj. I've literally spent weeks working on both.
I digress. The H3 needed a bunch of diagnosing just to figure out that there were some other related drive train issues. One the front & rear diffs needed to be drained and examined to see if there was anything amiss. Thank God...NO! Whew!
Filled the diffs back up with 75-90Synth gear oil and moved onto looking at the front CV's. They were both intact and no ripped boots/bellows.
Figured if I'm this far into it may as well tear down the front end and check the unitized hubs. The one nearest the drivers side was cr@p. Grinding, scraping and just overall pooched.
Why did I not expect the hubs? They were just replaced with Moog, Timken hubs within the last 12-17K miles. That is why lol.
So that means the go to high end brands have gotten just as unreliable as the cheapy overseas brands.
Ordered up a set of cheapy ones and installed them Wednesday. While I was at it swapped in new ceramic front brake pads.
Test drive proved much more quiet and controlled. That's the good news.

The down side is that I'm probably due for another new set of tires. Ugh!
The tires that are on Happy H3 now cost a bundle and are high end Nokian tires.
There the Rottiva A/T plus eco path and they set me back a bunch. For those who are not familiar with Nokain tyres they are one of the best tire manufactures in the E.U.
They are located in Finland and do a lot of there testing in Siberia. In fact my actual tires came from Russia.
Did you ever figure out the clunk under the armrest?
 

Mayfire123

Probationary Member
Messages
2
Location
Wisconsin
Did you ever figure out what was making the noise? I'm having the same issue but mine only occurs on the highway about 70+mph when i hit a bump. I've looked and can’t find anything, and I've had a shop look for it with no luck.
You happen to figure out what it was? Mines the same deal
 
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