H3/H3T Air Lift Suspension/Lift kit? Possible? Insane?

[mavrikjc]

So I've been around on this forum since before I bought my H3T Alpha last year (hell, this forum inspired me to buy my H3T) and started the slow process of building a list of mods/accessories/etc. for my H3T but one of the biggest decisions that impacts a lot of others is lift kit.

Has anyone seen/done a compressed air lift-kit for an H3? I bought my wife a LandRover LR3 before I bought my H3T and it has a factory airlift system that only gives about 1.5" lift but is awesome. I know AirLift makes various things that will work for the H3T but not sure the pros/cons of this or even if it would give me effectively what I am looking for (about 4" of lift like I'd get from a Rancho lift kit with a lot less pain).

Can anybody point me in the right direction or is this a pipe dream?

(Apologies in advance if there's a thread on this topic I just haven't found)

 

[3Hummers]

Don't remember a thread on this topic. I would have to think about this and spend some time under the truck. How to mount, front half shaft angles, tie rod and ball joint angles, limiting straps.... Chris may have some ideas on this or Bebe's and a few others. I know Ron B did it on his H1 and Eric has a kit out for an air bag suspension system for the H1 but don't know of anyone that has done an H3.

 

[mavrikjc]

Don't remember a thread on this topic. I would have to think about this and spend some time under the truck. How to mount, front half shaft angles, tie rod and ball joint angles, limiting straps.... Chris may have some ideas on this or Bebe's and a few others. I know Ron B did it on his H1 and Eric has a kit out for an air bag suspension system for the H1 but don't know of anyone that has done an H3.

So it sounds like Rancho or custom solution is about my only option eh? Did I hear Tuff Country stopped making their kit for the H3/T?

 

[alrock]

Not sure what you could really do on the front with airlift; I don't think there's much room to do anything without getting into ugly angles on parts. On the rear it should be easier, though you're still somewhat constrained.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I've been considering doing a non-parallel 4 link suspension on the rear of mine - which would allow me to stack airbags on top of the springs to change the amount of rake in the truck... benefit is it'd keep the vehicle level no matter how much crap...err.. rescue gear I have in the back... front, I'm just going to do a rancho lift.

 

[mavrikjc]

Thanks for all the input... For a truck that's my daily driver and weekend toy, now I understand why so many "crank the t-bars up and buy 35's" lol. Since I've got the H3T Alpha (a bit beefier suspension/steering/power) I'm starting to wonder if that-bar/35s approach (maybe with a 1" body lift) isn't my best initial option till I figure out what I really want to do next...

thoughts?

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk 2

 

[MaxPF]

4" of lift on the front with a simple air lift would max out, if not exceed, the droop travel on the half shafts, which is A Bad Thing™. The Rancho lift, like all true IFS lifts, adds a bolt-on subframe which drops the lower A-arms and diff 4" to maintain stock half shaft geometry.

Rear lifts are comparatively easy. The simplest method is lifted springs+longer shocks. The downside is the cost of good springs. When you buy a Rancho lift this is how they lift the rear A spring-over with stock springs will also net around 5 inches of lift (perfect for saggy springs), and has the advantage of increasing clearance beneath the axle where the springs mount due to elimination of the low hanging spring/shock retainer plate. It's also cheaper, assuming you can DIY or you have a buddy with the equipment and skills. Spring over isn't particularly difficult - you need a set of perches, a set of shock brackets, possibly new shocks (for max travel), spring retainer plates, U-bolts, and a decent MIG welder (of course you could TIG weld the brackets or even stick weld them with 70,000psi low hydrogen rod), and someone who can weld reasonably well. Removing the old perches isn't necessary, but doing so cleans up the appearance of the conversion and gives maximal ground clearance in those areas.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Thanks for all the input... For a truck that's my daily driver and weekend toy, now I understand why so many "crank the t-bars up and buy 35's" lol. Since I've got the H3T Alpha (a bit beefier suspension/steering/power) I'm starting to wonder if that-bar/35s approach (maybe with a 1" body lift) isn't my best initial option till I figure out what I really want to do next...

thoughts?

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk 2

I wouldn't - you'd be amazed at how much harsher the ride is with cranked bars.

I'm not a fan of body lifts - but mostly from a stylistic reason

 

[mudbug]

the only option is a kelderman air lift which is for HD pickups but if you research the one for a chevy then it could be possible to replicate it for the h3 using rancho parts.

 

[Big2dabank]

I have a custom air lift setup in the garage for My H2. Custom upper control arms, custom upper bag mounts, etc.. My goal was to keep truck stock height and lift as needed on the trail. I never had time to install it and am selling it, but it would have been cool.

View attachment 13525
View attachment 13526
View attachment 13527

 

[amrg]

I wouldn't - you'd be amazed at how much harsher the ride is with cranked bars.

I'm not a fan of body lifts - but mostly from a stylistic reason

The harsher ride is mostly attributed to the extended bump stop being stiffer. Ive read that the T.D. ones arent progressive, which the OEMs are. Ive played around with both on my truck and realized how much more forgiving the ride is leveled w/out the extended stops. There is a slight nose dive at hard brakes, but Id rather live with that over having my ride quality suffer the whole time.

 

[MaxPF]

I'm not a fan of body lifts - but mostly from a stylistic reason

And because they raise your CG while adding zero extra ground clearance under the frame.

 

[Steve #1]

I wouldn't - you'd be amazed at how much harsher the ride is with cranked bars.

Cranking the bars will make the ride softer not harsher as you are no longer riding on the progressive dampeners.

 

[Blake-O]

When I cranked my T-Bars and went to the Duratrac 315's, my ride is now what i would characterize as choppy and hoppy!! Not something I'd like for a daily driver but its fine for what I intend to use it for now and that's wheeling and running back and forth to my cabin.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk