Clicking/Popping noise when turning? I can feel it in the floorboard.

[lKeithStone]

Today I took my H3 back to the dealership for the same problem they tried to fix a week ago. Originally they thought it was the CV Axel Boot. I can hear and feel 3 or 4 pops underneath the driver floorboard when making a sharp right turn/I did hear it faintly when turning left one morning. They are telling me it is the frame mounting spacers? They said it's the body and the frame making contact that's making the noise. Has anyone here had to replace the frame mounting spacers before? Did you here the popping noise while turning before you replaced them? They quoted me $1,700 to fix - hopefully this is the problem and I don't have shell out more money because they guessed wrong again.

Thanks!

 

[Dennis]

CV Joint me thinks

 

[Best4x4]

My Alpha made some nasty sounds after I took it off road, but I honestly think it was the torsion bars from flexing after my off roading. On the drive home the suspension settled back down and the popping basically went away. My Mitsubishi Montero's all did basically the same thing until the IFS suspension settled back down. Now if you hadn't flexed it from one extreme to the other and it's doing this from just highway driving, I'd inspect your bushings, ball joints, and CV's.

 

[rsc]

I thought I had CV issues, turns out I just need a diet- my seat was creaking and groaning in the turns.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

add to possible noises, the differential mount - I put a spacer between the bolt and the frame and cured all the clunking and clicking noises that I used to get

oh yeah, and $1700 to replace body mounts is obscene

 

[Steve #1]

There was a batch of early - mid 07s that the body mount bolts were to long and would make contact with the frame when turning. My dealer removed a small amout of material from the end of the bolts so they would not make contact. You may also want to check this thread http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...ore-POP-CLUNK-CLANK-from-body-mounts-!-HOW-TO

 

[4speedfunk]

Don't pay some idiot to work on your truck...thats driveway DIY stuff. Its a $5.00 fix.

H3's are famous for being squeak machines. Truly the loudest, creaking, groaning, squeaking, popping 4x4 I've ever owned. Everybody...I MEAN EVERYBODY that owns an H3 needs to periodically crawl underneath and tighten every bolt they see. Skid plates, body bushings, steering rack, axle mounting bolts, U-bolts, etc....all seem to be prone to coming loose. As the frame flexes...this stuff can make weird noises that seem to come & go for no reason. While you're under there...grab some spray lithium grease and squirt a shot on the Control Arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and the torsion bar pockets (hex-shaped hole in the lower control arms). On the rear, squirt the leaf-spring bushings (on the forward pockets), and also the shackle bushings (at the rear of the spring).

 

[lKeithStone]

My Alpha made some nasty sounds after I took it off road, but I honestly think it was the torsion bars from flexing after my off roading. On the drive home the suspension settled back down and the popping basically went away. My Mitsubishi Montero's all did basically the same thing until the IFS suspension settled back down. Now if you hadn't flexed it from one extreme to the other and it's doing this from just highway driving, I'd inspect your bushings, ball joints, and CV's.

No, it's definitely only when I make sharp right turns. It's a rather loud popping noise.

add to possible noises, the differential mount - I put a spacer between the bolt and the frame and cured all the clunking and clicking noises that I used to get

oh yeah, and $1700 to replace body mounts is obscene

Thanks for the advice!

There was a batch of early - mid 07s that the body mount bolts were to long and would make contact with the frame when turning. My dealer removed a small amout of material from the end of the bolts so they would not make contact. You may also want to check this thread http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...ore-POP-CLUNK-CLANK-from-body-mounts-!-HOW-TO

Thanks for the link! That sounds like exactly whats going on with my truck. The dealer seems like they found the issue. I do know that a few hummer techs work their as it used to be the old hummer dealership.

Don't pay some idiot to work on your truck...thats driveway DIY stuff. Its a $5.00 fix.

H3's are famous for being squeak machines. Truly the loudest, creaking, groaning, squeaking, popping 4x4 I've ever owned. Everybody...I MEAN EVERYBODY that owns an H3 needs to periodically crawl underneath and tighten every bolt they see. Skid plates, body bushings, steering rack, axle mounting bolts, U-bolts, etc....all seem to be prone to coming loose. As the frame flexes...this stuff can make weird noises that seem to come & go for no reason. While you're under there...grab some spray lithium grease and squirt a shot on the Control Arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and the torsion bar pockets (hex-shaped hole in the lower control arms). On the rear, squirt the leaf-spring bushings (on the forward pockets), and also the shackle bushings (at the rear of the spring).

I understand this could probably be an easy fix, but the problem is I live in an apartment without a garage and it's 5 degrees outside with snow on the ground.

Here let me explain my story....

It started off about 3 weeks ago when I found this Grey 2006 Hummer H3 with 78,000 miles on it. Went and test drove it at Willis Auto Campus in Des Moines Iowa. After I test drove it I knew I had to have it! I ended up buying it the next day ($15k).

I drove it for about a week and noticed a few things wrong, so I wrote them all down. Here is the list of problems I wrote down.

1. Heat/AC knobs and a few other buttons not illuminating.
2. RPM's drop when coming to a stop (sounds like it wants to die) (rough idle)
3. Steering wheel shakes when stopped.
4. Hear a clicking/popping noise from front end when turning at higher speeds.
5. Plastic pieces on left and right of windshield fading/peeling.
6. Front grille bent, not on properly.
7. Check on floor-mats dealership said they ordered when I bought the car since none were in stock at the time.
8. Ticking noise coming from passenger floorboard when accelerating.
9. Service TPM monitor.
10. Exhaust seems louder than normal.

I dropped the H3 off at the dealership with the list above.

I ended up hearing from them a few day later letting me know what they found.

[FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]1. Needs Cylinder head - Intake valves leaking had 30% leakage advised dissembled and clean parts found camshafts worn as well as rocker arms. Replaced exhaust and intake cams and all rocker arms transfer lifters to new cylinder head. Replaced head gasket and installed new head.
2. Exhaust Manifold - Replaced exhaust manifold due to broken bolts and it has a crack in it.
3. Water pump bearing/Water pump - Also found water pump bearing has failed has a severe wobble found when removing fan. Replaced water pump during repair.
4. Left front CV Axle Shaft needs replaced.
5. Front grille improperly installed - Installed mounting bolt.
6. Right front and right rear TPM Sensors need replaced and relearned.
7. Needs new HVAC Control.

All of this equaled over $6,500 in repairs!

I did buy a 4 year 48,000 mile warranty, but they would not cover since all of this was preexisting. After them having several meetings about my car and it sitting there for a few more days... The dealership ended up paying half and GM paid the other half - all was fixed and I didn't have to pay a cent.

Once I got the car back I drove it for a couple more days and noticed that the popping noise was still happening, so I took it back. I explained what was going on.

Now they are telling me that they have exhausted all the money they can put into my car and they will not cover this. This car came with a 1 month 50/50 warranty. I have drove this car for a weeks since I have bought it and now they won't fix the problem that I originally came into the dealership and complained about? It's my fault that your mechanic fixed the wrong part? I was pissed and called up the used car manager. He was a complete a** and I didn't get anywhere with him. So I called the service manager back and he is going to talk with the vice president today to see what he says. The service manager has been great throughout this entire process.

I just can't believe this car has had over $8,000 in mechanical issues and they put it on their lot!

Hoping that I hear good news from the service manager today after he speaks with the vice president. I would really like to drive my H3!!![/FONT]

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

1 - check my build thread for how to fix those lights
2 - get some MAF cleaner, and follow the directions
3 - probably related to the MAF sensor, but depending on the miles, could use a set of plugs and wires
4 - CV joint
5 - paint
6 - snap into locks (push gently) if it wobbles, replace the holders of the snaps or fix the plastic extrusions so that they snap into place (could require plastic repair)
7 - get weathertech mats
8 - possible U-joint? that's just a guess, or could be transfer case - how does it shift into 4 lock and 2 lock?
9 - check your tire pressure, or replace the batteries in the senders (requires removal of tires)
10 - this is a problem?

I'd never replace the head on a 2006 when you can buy a 2007 up motor for about the same price and get 35 more hp.

as for their refusal - go see an attorney - that's a simple breach of contract issue.

as for issues - mine had plenty of issues that would have cost a bunch to have a dealer fix.... I got it for cheaper because I bought it As-Is.

 

[Chook]

Didn't see it in the posts above but if it is fitted with 35" tires it sometimes will rub @ full lock

 

[alrock]

I've had what's likely that same noise for a long time. Haven't spent too much time looking at it, but I'm going to double check the crossmember for the torsion bars to make sure it's tight since that's a bolted in crossmember, not welded, if I remember correctly. Wouldn't take much play for it to make those noises.

 

[alrock]

I was incorrect - that crossmember is welded in, not bolted in. Not sure what causes my clunk, which could be the same as yours.

 

[deserth3]

Check your ball joints

 

[ROM4D]

I'm having this exact same issue, posted a thread on it about 2 weeks ago I think? Took it to the dealer and they checked everything out as well. Hubs, cv's, crossmember bushings etc. They couldn't find anything. Said they could feel it under the floorboards when turning but couldn't find it. Wanted to do a stethoscope test on everything and charge abothr $120. Itold them to put it back together and I'd figure it out. This is the first I've seen the link on the body mount issue. Excited to see what I find on that. I'll keep my eye on this thread to see what comes up or post if I find anything myself.

 

[justin94tt]

I had a pop sound when I would turn to the left, it ended up being the right side diff mount bushing was completely detached from the mount itself letting the diff flop around under load. Once replaced I had no more pop sound.