H3 running hot

[poweraidon]

For some reason my h3 is always running hot. I had a leaking radiator but replaced that already. The temp gauge is always above the middle and really close to the 4th tick mark. What could be causing this!


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[zackcrum]

Did you replace the thermostat when you replaced your radiator? If you have mud in the fins of your radiator that could cause it too.

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[poweraidon]

Did you replace the thermostat when you replaced your radiator? If you have mud in the fins of your radiator that could cause it too.

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No I didn't replace the thermostat... Was I suppose to?


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[zackcrum]

There's no written rule that you must but they do wear out and get stuck from time to time.

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[USMC_TOP]

From past threads they say our rigs get air bubbles from the rad change. Might be it. Or your clutch fan. I changed my rad last winter and never goes above the half wat mark even with AC on and climbing sand dunes.

 

[poweraidon]

I've always had a problem with the engine running hot... Not over heating but running hotter then average


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[poweraidon]

From past threads they say our rigs get air bubbles from the rad change. Might be it. Or your clutch fan. I changed my rad last winter and never goes above the half wat mark even with AC on and climbing sand dunes.

I changed it like 2 or 3 weeks ago do you think there is still air bubbles in there?


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[alrock]

I've always had a problem with the engine running hot... Not over heating but running hotter then average
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Against what average are you measuring? Are you using a Scangauge or similar or reading the dash gauge?

 

[poweraidon]

Against what average are you measuring? Are you using a Scangauge or similar or reading the dash gauge?

Lol I just base it on the middle tick on the dash gauge it's always over that


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[alrock]

Mine's almost always over 1/2 on the H3 - that's normal, at least in summer. It rarely hits 3/4 on the gauge but it's not unreasonable for it to do so on long highway climbs or when stuck in traffic.

 

[poweraidon]

Mine's almost always over 1/2 on the H3 - that's normal, at least in summer. It rarely hits 3/4 on the gauge but it's not unreasonable for it to do so on long highway climbs or when stuck in traffic.

It's always really close to 3/4 [emoji15]... Idk I'm just so used to other cars with the temp being stable in the middle. Maybe it's just me


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[Steve #1]

Depending on your model year their may be a software update that re-calibrates the needle. The gauge is really just a fancy idiot light. You need something that can get the temp off the ECM so you have a baseline for your gauge.

 

[cbetts]

It has been my experience to not trust the in-dash gauge for reliable temp readings. I would get some kind of OBD reader and get the real temp from the computer. On my gauge, just over the half mark is 190 degrees.

 

[Best4x4]

I don't trust the gauge after the 190 thermostat vs 180. I use my Scanguage II and it's 204-206 at 70-80MPH. In town it's 209-215, and when you're cruising under 40MPH fan clutch engages (you can hear the roar) and the temps will go back to around 204-206. Once you speed up and the clutch disengages the temps will climb again.

I went nuts checking my wife's H3 temps after the new water pump, fan clutch, radiator, and 190 thermostat. Once I got the air bubble out, the temps have been consistent, and I'm not worried about what the uncalibrated gauge says (temped to move the needle down by hand!!) so I have the Scangauge II in plain site and go by that.

 

[digglesworth]

X2 on the scangauge. I run 198-202 regularly. My gauge sits above half all the time. The highest I've gotten so far is around 215 or so, I think.

 

[rsc]

Mine runs all over the place. Last year when it was over 100 I was seeing 215-220 at 70 on the hwy w/out a roof rack and on 33's. around town could see over 225 with the a/c on. With all that drag added stuff I now see about 210-215 at 70 when its 85-90 outside. It cools off quick when I back off on the speed or turn off the a/c. It just feels like the condensor should be somewhere else or the radiator should have been designed with more capacity. The thermostat change didn't help us out either.

 

[Best4x4]

The radiator on our H3's is tiny/thin I do agree. My TJ/LJ would run 212-220 while the gauge never moved past 210..... Scangauge II showed me the true temps which went as high as 225-230 depending on the conditions.

I think working/real hood louvers would help out a lot. Very common to see them on TJ/LJ/JK's. I'm also curious if we could find another fan clutch that would engage sooner. When mine engages at slow speeds it does a very good job of cooling the engine down. Or the install of a small electric fan to help pull air thru say once the temp of the engine reaches 210. I think that would help out.

My Alpha has the electric fan from PCM OF NC and I was happy to hear it turn on by itself after the engine was off. It stayed on until it cooled it to around 191-193.

Anyone with real hood louvers have a scangauge II along with a 190 thermostat? Curious of the temp difference.

 

[rsc]

I have the RunCool hood louvers installed. I took some IR pictures of my H3 and my wife's H3 after each came off the highway on a 95 degree day. On hers you can see the whole hood is one solid temp where mine is cool in the front and hot at the louvers and high spots at the back of the hood. I need to take a picture of the hood on the highway to see how it sheds heat, but you can see that it is letting heat out when stopped and/or going slow.

I have a 190 degree thermostat and Scanguage.

 

[Best4x4]

Yeah I'll be looking into some louvers in the future for sure.