• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

H3 water temp

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Absolutely ridiculous! I am running brand new prestone dex cool, new OEM radiator I put in around February, new fan clutch and NO thermostat and I am still hitting 224 water temp in 95 degree weather with the A/C on. MSC did the cooling mod I wanted to do with a 180 stat and is told me he was running 181 with the a/c on in 100 degree weather with that he is running an ARB which blocks flow. I have a winch, lights and a trans cooler in front but I shouldnt be at 224.

WTF is wrong? I am running basically a brand new cooling system.
 

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
And what would cause the water pump go bad besides a leaking seal and freezing up?
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
Is there a little propeller/impeller thing in the water pump? Maybe that thing seperated from the shaft somehow and now the shaft is turning but not the spinny-thing on the inside....
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
On my wife's 07 the radiator blew 3 weeks after we bought it. Replaced the fan clutch, radiator, thermostat (stupid new 190 temp), fan belt, idler pulley, and belt tensioner. In doing all that I found my OEM waterpump pulley wobbling, and making a lovely growling sound. It was toast at 76k. Replaced it, finally got all the air out of the system and it runs 204-210 tops on the road. In traffic or slow speeds the fan clutch engages and it'll go from 213 down to 202-204F.

My Alpha with the oem cooling setup vs the efan sits at 198-206F at speed, in traffic it'll climb to 213, but once again when the fan clutch engages the temps go back down my Alpha has an ARB and winch to boot. Efan temps were min 213-237F = epic fail.....
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
The I5 seems to be a PITA to get the air bubble out. It took a good amount of drive cycles, and manually burping it to get all the air out.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
ill keep trying bubbling it out...my buddy jumped the gun and said it might be a combustion chamber leak and that it heat was escaping from the head gasket and leaking into the water jackets. I did a compression test

130 Cyl 1
142
135
148
152 Cyl 5

I spoke to MSC on the phone, what a great guy. Very knowledgable when it comes to cooling. His mods have him set up to never go over 190. I want to get to that. He mentioned the lack of a thermostat might allow the fluid to travel through the rad too quickly and it might not allow it to cool. He said I can hose clamp the hose a bit to see if it slows the flow and get it to cool better.
 

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
Cylinder 1 is low, more than 10% down from 4&5. That will need to be addressed, but as long as it is running well leave it be for now. I am running a very similar setup to MSC's thermostat setup. I see about 206 w/out using the a/c on the hwy at 90-95 degrees outside and 65 mph. With a/c on it runs about 215, same as last summer before I put in my e-fan. I hate it, but the H3 just runs hot.
 

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
F5Moab posted this about 18 months ago:

Normal compression for a new engine should be around 215 psi. The lowest reading should not be less than 70 percent of the highest reading. • When the compression measurement is normal, the compression builds up quickly and evenly to the specified compression on each cylinder.




• When the compression is low on the first stroke and tends to build up on the following strokes, but does not reach the normal compression, or if the compression improves considerably with the addition of three squirts of oil, the piston rings may be the cause.




• When the compression is low on the first stroke and does not build up in the following strokes, or the addition of oil does not affect the compression, the valves may be the cause.




• When the compression is low on two adjacent cylinders, or coolant is present in the crankcase, the head gasket may be the cause.






Your leakdown test are very high. Normal cylinder leakage is from 12-18 percent.


• Make a note of any cylinder with more leakage than the other cylinders.




• Any cylinder with 25 percent leakage or more requires service.








•Record the cylinder leakage readings for each cylinder. In excessive leakage situations, inspect for the following conditions:
• Air leakage sounds at the throttle control module or air inlet hose may indicate a worn or burnt intake valve or a broken valve spring.




• Air leakage sounds at the exhaust system tailpipe may indicate a worn or burnt exhaust valve or a broken valve spring.




• Air leakage sounds from the crankcase, oil level indicator tube, or oil fill tube may indicate worn piston rings, a damaged piston, a worn or scored cylinder bore, a damaged engine block or a damaged cylinder head.




• Air bubbles in the cooling system may indicate a damaged cylinder head or a damaged cylinder head gasket.




Will it last another 75K? Could, and could also start burning oil at any time. Need some more testing to determine if it is just problems with the cylinder head.


​
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
First time doing a compression test. How I did it.

Pull the fuel pump fuse

Foot all the way down on the gas

Crank it over and hear it go over 4 times then stop

Check the reading

I am not losing coolant but I Defintely deserve dumbass of the year award. I could of sworn I bought 50/50 premixed coolant I bought straight up dex cool without the mix. Let me go crawl in a hole. Well my cooling problem is probably fixed now that I have let coolant out and put water in


But I have bigger problems to fix now
 

Xlr8n

Well-Known Member
Messages
140
Location
Midwest
First time doing a compression test. How I did it.

Pull the fuel pump fuse

Foot all the way down on the gas

Crank it over and hear it go over 4 times then stop

Check the reading

I am not losing coolant but I Defintely deserve dumbass of the year award. I could of sworn I bought 50/50 premixed coolant I bought straight up dex cool without the mix. Let me go crawl in a hole. Well my cooling problem is probably fixed now that I have let coolant out and put water in


But I have bigger problems to fix now


Let us know if the new mixture cures your problems.

FWIW, there is really no good reason not to run a thermostat. If you have a good working thermostat in place, any issues with overheating or running hot lies elsewhere and you are just putting a bandaid on the problem.

The biggest issue with not running a thermostat is you are prolonging the engine getting up to actual operating temp which can affect performance and longevity of the engine components and fluids. They are designed for primary operation at a set tempature.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
I have a mod where I will still be running a stat but never finished it a few days ago so I have been running no stat for a short period of time.
 

Can007

Well-Known Member
Messages
374
Location
Palmdale, CA
Sorry to hear that bro!!!! What about your oil? When was the last time you changed it? Have you noticed a milk residue on the oil cap or when draining the oil. This 95 to 100 degree weather can have a nasty effect on cars.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Update: all is well! My dumb ass found out I had 100% coolant and no water in the rad I could of sworn I bought 50/50 pre mix. I dumped some out added water I'm assuming I'm still at 70/30 but with no stat I'm running 200 temp in traffic in 100 degree weather. Now I will add the stat and go 50/50 mix and I should run about the same. It's nice with my cooling mods to sit in traffic in 100 degrees with the motor at 200 and the trans at 180
 
Top