One thing after another

[SolidusJ]

I just can't win right now with her...:sigh:

- I'm having a head unit problem to the point I have a switch to shut it off and when the bass hits it shuts off or when my e-fan comes on it shuts off.

- About a month ago at time the steering is really tight like there is no fluid in the system in low RPM's. It sucks making a turn and the steering quits on you and coming traffic almost takes you out.

- Monday my blower resistor melts and takes the harness connector with it, $45 bucks to fixes it but once again sucks not having heat at 0550.

- The new one is I always flick my key and she would start well now the starters just running and not cracking the engine. If I hold the key till it starts shes good but on the way home today I had to do this 3 times.

I love her death and shes only at 51K I really don't want to start all over with a new truck or dare I say a car?

 

[06 H3]

ehhh well it sounds like its not the trucks fault. I mean the headunit is aftermarket, the E fan is aftermarket so they sound like electrical install issues. Seeing the other 2 are electrical related maybe something is going on electronically in general.

 

[3Hummers]

Chris may be on to something

 

[deserth3]

How old is your battery? Sounds like it's weak. Also check both ends of the cables going to your battery. Especially the ground strap. Though I'm not sure where that is.

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[06 H3]

Deserth3 is on the money. For some reason bad battery terminals and a bad battery make this truck go haywire. No idea why though it just does. I had issues and it was bad terminals. I say start simple. Check the battery and terminals then go from there

 

[SolidusJ]

How old is your battery? Sounds like it's weak. Also check both ends of the cables going to your battery. Especially the ground strap. Though I'm not sure where that is.

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Deserth3 is on the money. For some reason bad battery terminals and a bad battery make this truck go haywire. No idea why though it just does. I had issues and it was bad terminals. I say start simple. Check the battery and terminals then go from there

Swapped out the terminals a few years ago but my batter is from late 2011 so I'll plug a meter to it and see how much it drops during crank. Thanks for IDEA GUYS!!! Also I cleaned off all 4 ground points a few months ago with the head unit thing going on :thumbs:.

 

[amrg]

Ive replaced my terminals, solved my electric issues. 6 months later, same issues came back! Checked the terminals and they had corrosion on them, cleaned em and so far so good. All I can say is it seems the H3 is extreeeeeemely sensitive when it comes to this!
As for the blower harness, I had it replaced on my 09 last week. I think it lets go every 5 years coz I had it replaced on my 06 3 years ago! (5 years from purchase)
Lastly whenever you add somethin aftermarket, expect some issues with them (usually not installed correctly or something lose)

 

[Renagade132]

Also make sure it's not the Tsunami connectors, because if enough moister builds in them, the current will drop considerably!

 

[deserth3]

Since you have a volt meter I'll add this. I apologize if this seems to simple.
To check the ground. Place the volt meter between the negative battery terminal and a good metal connection on the truck.
The best ground will ideally read 0 volts. The higher the voltage the worse the ground.
You are looking for the lowest number posible.

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[CaseyS]

Its probably your engine. You should pull it and put something else in there

 

[alrock]

CaseyS for the win!

 

[LagunaH1]

Its probably your engine. You should pull it and put something else in there

Yeah! Like, say a 6.5 Turbo Diesel :hans:

Sounds like the other suggestions about battery, ground, etc are spot on. Let us know how it all turns out

 

[Humvdood]

Hey, I'm new here so I don't know how much my word is worth - but I've installed several head units in H3s.
Did you use a GMOS unit? Some people don't mind not having the factory chimes and Onstar but it can cause other electrical issues if you just cut out the OEM harness and tap your new one in.

If you used the existing 12v constant - that wire is tiny and isn't made to pull the kind of ohms you might need. You might try running a direct 12v (fused) to the battery if you haven't.

Also, what wire did you use for the accessory wire? If you used one in the ignition harness - it could be freaking out your passlock which could be causing some ignition issues.

Just my two cents.

 

[SolidusJ]

Hey, I'm new here so I don't know how much my word is worth - but I've installed several head units in H3s.
Did you use a GMOS unit? Some people don't mind not having the factory chimes and Onstar but it can cause other electrical issues if you just cut out the OEM harness and tap your new one in.

If you used the existing 12v constant - that wire is tiny and isn't made to pull the kind of ohms you might need. You might try running a direct 12v (fused) to the battery if you haven't.

Also, what wire did you use for the accessory wire? If you used one in the ignition harness - it could be freaking out your passlock which could be causing some ignition issues.

Just my two cents.

I got the GMOS-01 that I had for years because I enjoyed having my bluetooth, one day I lost my cool and banged around the harness and the deck died on my. After a whole lot of this and that I put dielectric grease on the BCM and now have power but now it won't shut off and I lost my BT and door chime. I redid the harness checked the door jam sensors EVERY ground is cleaned just can't pin my problem.

 

[atvspeed4]

I had to buy another GMOS unit after my first one started glitching on me. Might have to go that route.

 

[SolidusJ]

I had to buy another GMOS unit after my first one started glitching on me. Might have to go that route.

Swap 3 times already since this problem has started thinking I might need to look more at the BCM.

 

[Airborne]

I would look long and hard at the gmos-01. Its not the harness that might be bad its the chime box. Try replacing that if the other suggestions dont work. After market head units will literally fry a bcm and even the PCM on the h3 and Colorados. James from the Colorado forums has seen it. And when I was learning how to tune from him i learned that first hand. For whatever reason the chime boxes cause some serious issues for our trucks. The gmos-01 is the safest but i had three with bad chime boxes.
Either way when ever I tune my PCM or even plug into the obdii I have to pull the rdo fuse or the whole electrical system goes nuts. I had a big scare one day my truck started going crazy I pulled over to scan it and then it wouldn't come back on it took relflashing the PCM 3 times to get it to start again. That was after I had hp tuners plugged in with the head unit still on.
The electrical issues sound completely related to your stereo. Subs hit-head unit shuts off-efan-head unit off. Maybe the fuse on the back of the head unit itself is loose? Also which fuse did you slave your efan off of?

 

[4speedfunk]

I don't know what any of this stuff is...but my door chime volume seems to fade in & out occasionally. I keep hoping one day it will totally go silent. So annoying.

 

[SolidusJ]

I would look long and hard at the gmos-01. Its not the harness that might be bad its the chime box. Try replacing that if the other suggestions dont work. After market head units will literally fry a bcm and even the PCM on the h3 and Colorados. James from the Colorado forums has seen it. And when I was learning how to tune from him i learned that first hand. For whatever reason the chime boxes cause some serious issues for our trucks. The gmos-01 is the safest but i had three with bad chime boxes.
Either way when ever I tune my PCM or even plug into the obdii I have to pull the rdo fuse or the whole electrical system goes nuts. I had a big scare one day my truck started going crazy I pulled over to scan it and then it wouldn't come back on it took relflashing the PCM 3 times to get it to start again. That was after I had hp tuners plugged in with the head unit still on.
The electrical issues sound completely related to your stereo. Subs hit-head unit shuts off-efan-head unit off. Maybe the fuse on the back of the head unit itself is loose? Also which fuse did you slave your efan off of?

I had the chime box go out on me in the past and what would happen is the lights inside the cab would stay on or the radio wouldn't run so thinking this I replaced the the box 3 times and re did the harness 2 times in the last 2 months. So going to the deck the fuse was fine so I popped a new deck and it stared to work again AFTER I REMOVED AND CLEANED THE BCM, so I go and check with the old deck and works again just won't shut off.

I went over to a buddy's H3 the and the the main harness from the truck that give a constant 12V AT ALL TIME is just the same as my truck so I know that's good there. Now what tells it to shut off is what's stumping me if it was the door ajar sensor the lights inside the cab wouldn't shut off but I haven't tested them yet and wouldn't know how.

The fan is patched into the PCM and power coming from the fuse block and not tapped into any fuses, it comes with it's own just need to give it power and a ground.

 

[Airborne]

What tells it to shut off are two things.. Ignition off and door ajar sensor. As long as both of those are met the gmos-01 should shut the head unit off. Does your door chime go off when it's open? How close are you to goodfellow? I will be there in the next couple months for a school.

 

[SolidusJ]

What tells it to shut off are two things.. Ignition off and door ajar sensor. As long as both of those are met the gmos-01 should shut the head unit off. Does your door chime go off when it's open? How close are you to goodfellow? I will be there in the next couple months for a school.

I lost my door chime when this all stared and when I hit the Bluetooth dose nothing and the onstar button blinks red. No clue where goodfellow is from me.

 

[Airborne]

If you don't have a chime then that is where to start. There is a small fuse in the box you could check, other wise I am putting money on the whole box being bad. So that is the symptom not necessarily the problem. Something is frying your chime boxes. Whether it's the bcm being compromised or something else. After what you have said I think it was a mixture of both. I think your bcm may fried your chime box and vice versa. Both are extremely sensitive to electrical anomalies. So both having been compromised at one time or another are creating your issues back to back. I would definitely switch chime boxes, I know, AGAIN. If you don't have a chime that mean the box isn't completing the circuit and you are getting 12v constant but there isn't anything telling it to shut the head unit off. Which is the chime box. The other electrical issues would definitely indicate that by you frying chime boxes on a bimonthly basis, there is something else up. Did you wire your system yourself? I am not implying incompetence, in fact usually if you do it yourself you would do a better job than the custom shops on a time crunch would do.. Especially with all the other mods you have done with your truck. btw kudos on the rest of that your truck looks amazing.

 

[SolidusJ]

Starting to get worse, here's a video I made plus have a new yellow top in it.
[video=youtube;Rb4bYtYIJMY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rb4bYtYIJMY[/video]

 

[SolidusJ]

Only good thing that came out with the new battery beside it being free 99 is now when the e-fan comes on or when the bass hits the radio doesn't shut off.

 

[SolidusJ]

No thoughts?