As some of u know I tore into my Alpha a few weekends ago. I replaced the uppers, CV's, and both axle seals. I also drained and put new 75/90w in the front diff. I drove it maybe 50 miles and I had zero leaks or seeps. Today after getting home from work I crawled under it to check something and the LF seal had a little splatter on the diff mount. Checked the other side and it wasn't as bad. Wiped em off and went for a short trip. They both had a small layer of 75/90 all around the lip of the axle seals.... Is this a common thing until the new CV/seal wear in??? I know the old CV's had basically a grove worn into them where the seals were. I'm going to keep an eye on them, but could the cold weather be at fault??? I made sure the diff wasn't overfilled and it was fine. If they need replaced already they're just gonna seep a while lol.
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New Axle Seals are seeping....
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MaxPF
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Are the new CVs remans? Perhaps they are grooved...
08H3
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Did you use the Kent Moore tool when installing the CVs? Could be a tear in the seal from the splines when installing.
USMC_TOP
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No way to install them backwards right? Don't most seals still have those small angled contacts in a spiral around the ID of the seal to keep the lube in while the axel spins right? When I did seals in the past I used wheel bearing grease to lube my new seals. Maybe I was wrong for that but I never had a second leak.
Yeah I normally use grease on seals as well. The seals have a metal back and rubber front so you can't really install them wrong unless you absolutely wanted to lol. They were fine for 3 days, left for Cozumel, came back and it was 37F, went to grab GTA V for my PS4 and when I got home I saw the slight seeping. They aren't pouring out, but they aren't dry either.. I used some engine oil to lube them vs install them dry.
06 H3
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what brand? I noticed that the Orielly seals didnt last long on mine, then I went back to OEM. Some stuff on the H3 you can run any brand, cheap or OEM with no problem. Other stuff requires OEM stuff or else you will have issues, Same thing with the O2 sensor. My Orielly o2 sensor lasted me about a week then the CEL light came back on, replaced it with OEM its been fine for over 6 months.
MaxPF
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Diff vent blocked?
digglesworth
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I used some synthetic grease on the metal side. Can't remember if I lubed up the rubber part before I put the cv back in. I think I just lubed the cv a little before I stuck it in. With gear oil.... Then just wiped the surface off with a towel. good luck with it... These nuisance things are a real p.i.t.a.
MaxPF
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On the contrary, installing the seal dry willl wipe them out faster than anything. I'd definitely make sure your diff vent in clear. Otherwise, pressure builds up as the diff warms (doesn't take much either) and pushes oil past the seals.
I'll pull the hose off and take a test drive this evening.
Yeah all the other axle seals I've installed I lubed as well. I crawled under my wife's and the shafts are so rusty right before the seal they've basically sealed themselves lol. I honestly think the smooth clean surface of the new shafts is at fault for the seeping. I'm gonna check the vent line, and just keep an eye on them for now. If they start to gush then yeah time for action!
Yeah all the other axle seals I've installed I lubed as well. I crawled under my wife's and the shafts are so rusty right before the seal they've basically sealed themselves lol. I honestly think the smooth clean surface of the new shafts is at fault for the seeping. I'm gonna check the vent line, and just keep an eye on them for now. If they start to gush then yeah time for action!
08H3
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I would put a length of known good hose on before the test drive. I had a clutch job earlier this year and the shop forgot to put the vent hose back on. You'll lose a lot of fluid in a hurry.
4speedfunk
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The line isn't the issue. Its the fitting. Axle vent fittings have very small holes, and they are prone to getting clogged by rust and nasty lube. Like this one...
Grab a piece of welding wire (or a paper clip) and jamb it in there to make sure the hole is clear.
Grab a piece of welding wire (or a paper clip) and jamb it in there to make sure the hole is clear.
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MaxPF
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It's not. Smooth surfaces are needed for a good seal and to keep the seal alive. Grooved surfaces leak, and rough surfaces grind the seal lip away, eventually leaking as well.
Don't assume the sealing surfaces on the new parts are correct though. The rear output flange on my t-case was a bit undersize and it leaked like a sieve. Rather than replacing it I installed a Speedi-Sleeve and new seal and it solved the problem. Point is, sometimes parts are just manufactured incorrectly
Sucks, but I've had it happen on more than a few occasions...Yeah it's just gonna seep for a while. I do not have the time to tear it down again anytime soon with the holidays, and family stuff going on. After I sprayed em down I drove it a few miles and nada zip nothing, but I don't have my hopes up lol. I just can't believe they're leaking. I mean I'm very OCD when it comes to my rigs and doing the job right lol. It's not like the CV's just slid in lol, I had to lube em and tap em in with a rubber hammer (on the end of the CV).
Gonna order about 4 of the seals online at 8.00 each vs 20.00 in the stores around here!
Gonna order about 4 of the seals online at 8.00 each vs 20.00 in the stores around here!
digglesworth
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That's the way to do it.... Stock up... . Im waiting to close on a new house. Once I get outta this apartment, I'll have a full basement to start stock piling. Lol
. Im waiting to close on a new house. Once I get outta this apartment, I'll have a full basement to start stock piling. LolThey still leak...... I am extremely disappointed in how these seals do anything but seal..... When I order the new ones I'm going with the AC Delco's vs National's and I'm going to pack em with grease and coat the CV with grease as well. If they leak after that I dunno I might trade my Alpha in for an 07 Adventure and call it a day lol. Always the little things in life that just gotta bug the heck out of ya lol.
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MaxPF
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Don't be surprised if the new AC Delco seals are Nationals as well. Along with Chicago Rawhide (owned by SKF) and Timken, National (owned by Federal-Mogul) is one of the largest seal manufacturers. They may be THE largest for automotive seals. Easy way to tell is the color of the conformal coating on the seal's shell. National uses red, CR uses green, and Timken uses orange.
FWIW I have used many National seals without issue. I'm still suspicious that the seal surface on the CVs are the problem rather than the seals themselves. Only way to tell is to measure their OD and runout.