2007 H3 axles R&R

[H3HummerLineX]

2007 H3 axles R&R

Just wondering if anybody has replaced there right and left axle half shafts on their H3. Is it a daunting task or is it something that can be done in an afternoon in the driveway??

 

[cgalpha08]

Just wondering if anybody has replaced there axles on their H3. Is it a daunting task or is it something that can be done in an afternoon in the driveway??

I take it you are talking about the entire axle, not just the shafts?

It really is just undoing some bolts, swapping, and then re doing said bolts. (easier said than done)

The rear axle is pretty simple, (disclaimer, I have never done it) but off the top of my head this is what has to be disconnected:
U bolts, shocks, drive-shaft, brake lines, abs lines, and diff breather have to be disconnected and the brake caliper. Naturally take the wheels off, maybe rotors and hubs depending on what the new axle has already on it.

The front it easy too. 3 bolts are all that holds the front diff in. (cross-member and two outboard bolts). You have to take the cv's out and undo some things on the front suspension, as well as the drive-shaft. Its not so much the number of items as it is the rust that you have to deal with. I.E. rotors rusting to hubs, etc.
I know there is a how to on here already of how to remove the cv's. I will tell you that when CJ and i swapped my front diff last Saturday, we didn't remove the cross-member, and left the cv's sitting in the hubs (loosely), it can therefore be done that way, takes a little more wiggling and muscle though.

 

[rsc]

Depends, do you have a new one built up and ready? If all you have to do is unbolt the axle u-bolts, rear hangars, d/s and brake lines to wheel out the old axle. Swap the wheels over, roll it back in place and reverse the disassembly steps before bleeding. Thats a quick job. If you have just a bare axle it will take longer.

 

[H3HummerLineX]

Sorry guys, I meant the front right and left shafts.

 

[justin94tt]

It can be done in the drive way, if you search there are threads that have detailed instructions. If you are not mechanically inclined, it will probably take you at least half a day or longer. Becareful when removing and installing new seals if you rip the new ones you will have a leak and be doing it all over again.

 

[Best4x4]

I've got it down to 30min per side using hand tools. Make sure to use AC Delco Axle Seals!!!! The National Brand ones do nothing but leak.... Not a hard job really, once you've done it you figure out the sequence and it goes quickly.

 

[H3HummerLineX]

Great. Thanks for the info. Sounds like the hardest part will be jacking the vehicle up and finding jack stands to fit underneath it lol

 

[H3HummerLineX]

I know this is something a lot of guys have done in the field from snapping one, so I was hoping that it was an easy fix

 

[Best4x4]

Yeah I only jacked up one side at a time (mainly as a CYA in case something did decide to fall). I placed the Jack Stand on the frame just behind the front tires and just in front of the transmission cross member.

Hardest part for some people is the rust around the knuckle/hub assembly. I soaked mine overnight before my initial install and I was able to break them free pretty easy, but my H3 is also from the south so rust really isn't an issue on my H3's.

I used a small bottle jack to raise/lower the lower control arm which made breaking the upper ball joint a breeze.

Hardest thing for me was the darn axle seals..... I wasn't going to replace them, but then I was like I'm this far into it I might as well do them, so I made the mistake of removing the old ones before finding out no local auto parts stores had a set in stock.... Order them before to save yourself the trouble or get them from your local GM Dealer. I ended up installing/removing my setup 3 times until I finally narrowed the leak down to the National Oil Seals vs the Cardone CV's. Once I used the AC Delco Axle seals the leaking 75/90w stopped and I've had no more issues. So far the Cardone brand new vs reman CV's have been great. I haven't wheeled it hard since, but 100.00 for a set is a darn good deal vs OEM units for 250.00 each.

 

[cbetts]

Hardest part for me is popping the lower ball joint. Do NOT use a pickle fork unless you are replacing the ball joint altogether. The BFH method works but may take some effort and time depending on your endurance.

 

[4speedfunk]

CGalpha and I just did this last Saturday, and we tried a different method. We were able to remove the three main diff mounting bolts...slide the AAM-7 over to the passenger-side about 2"...and that gained enough room to pull the driver-side halfshaft out of the diff without separating the lower ball joint or removing the hub. Then once the driver-side shaft was out...we shifted the entire center section over as far as we could in the other direction (until the oil pan stopped it), and that gave enough room to pull the passenger-side halfshaft. We were also pulling the center section too, so those bolts would need to be removed anyway. Not sure it would be worthwhile, if you were only doing a halfshaft swap...but it is possible to pull the shafts with the hubs and lower ball-joints in place.

H3 hubs like to weld themselves to the knuckles. Prying them off usually results in mangled backing plates, and a slide-hammer puller seems to be the best method. The three bolts that hold the hubs to the knuckles, are coated at the factory with thread locker, and they will fight you all the way out. As always...PB Blaster is your best friend.

 

[H3HummerLineX]

I will soak it with liquid wrench the day before. Nice thing is this was done less than 3 months ago. I lifted it to high and tore the boots apart. So now they need replaced again.

 

[cbetts]

CGalpha and I just did this last Saturday, and we tried a different method. We were able to remove the three main diff mounting bolts...slide the AAM-7 over to the passenger-side about 2"...and that gained enough room to pull the driver-side halfshaft out of the diff without separating the lower ball joint or removing the hub. Then once the driver-side shaft was out...we shifted the entire center section over as far as we could in the other direction (until the oil pan stopped it), and that gave enough room to pull the passenger-side halfshaft. We were also pulling the center section too, so those bolts would need to be removed anyway. Not sure it would be worthwhile, if you were only doing a halfshaft swap...but it is possible to pull the shafts with the hubs and lower ball-joints in place.

H3 hubs like to weld themselves to the knuckles. Prying them off usually results in mangled backing plates, and a slide-hammer puller seems to be the best method. The three bolts that hold the hubs to the knuckles, are coated at the factory with thread locker, and they will fight you all the way out. As always...PB Blaster is your best friend.

I never thought about doing it this way. I like it! Did you even lift the tires off the ground?

 

[rsc]

Hardest part for me is popping the lower ball joint. Do NOT use a pickle fork unless you are replacing the ball joint altogether. The BFH method works but may take some effort and time depending on your endurance.

I had forgotten about the pickle fork. Good information there, someone might try to use one if they didn't know better.

 

[Best4x4]

I did it without ever disconnecting the lower ball joint from the knuckle. With the hub off, I had enough play to get the CV's out.

 

[H3HummerLineX]

Hmm. Good to know.

 

[digglesworth]

Yeah. Last time I pulled mine, I left the lower ball joint in place. Was able to pivot the knuckle outta the way enough to pop the cv outta the hub. Left the brake caliper and everything on. I did undo the brake line and abs wires from the upper control arms as to not pull them too tight and damage them.

 

[H3HummerLineX]

Cool. I know you are able to do that with some cars sometimes.. I will certainly try that first. I appreciate all the good information

 

[Best4x4]

Once you have the upper control arm ball joint disconnected let the abs wire hang loose as well as the brake line from the uca, then disconnect the lower shock mount. Then you can let the lower control arm fully drop which once the hub is loose gives you enough room to remove the CV.

My first round of CV removal/install was 2hr a side due to never doing it and issues with the axle seals. Next round was 45m-1hr per side, then finally I've got it down to 30m per side. It also helps that nothing is seized together!

 

[H3HummerLineX]

In think what worries me now is how many times this has to be done during the life/owning the H3. are there any other aftermarket replacements that don't have this problem from the geometry being wrong after tortion lifting?

 

[Best4x4]

If you wanna delete replacing the CV's only real fix is a SAS. CV's are like any other mechanical part. They're constantly spinning, flexing, and exposed to the elements. Eventually either the boot is going to tear, or the bearings/CV will wear out. I have no problem changing them out. My Alpha has 125K on it and the OEM units were still in pretty good shape with the exception of a torn boot due to road debris/age. I've seen street H3's with nearly 150-200K on the original CV's without any issues. Just depends on what the CV's are exposed to and how the H3 is used or setup. If you don't have the Tbar's cranked past 23.5 you should get a good life out of them.