Passenger Key Lock

[zebra]

Anybody else annoyed by only having a keyhole on the driver's door? In addition to us starting to get weak/lazy lock actuators, we rarely carry the clickers - partly because of this problem & partly because unnecessarily actuating all the doors just to open the one puts unnecessary wear on the rest of the motors.

Have any of y'all installed a key lock on your front passenger door? Would it be as simple as digging up the RHD part numbers for the lock cylinder & linkage, then drilling a hole in the door?

 

[alrock]

I haven't had an issue with the door lock actuators so it's never really crossed my mind to have a key for the passenger door. Additionally, you can program the vehicle so that the only door that unlocks on the initial unlock click is the driver's door. See the owner's manual for details, if you're interested.

 

[Bigunit]

That's right Alrock, my clicker /remote is set to open the driver's door only on the first click and all the other doors only on the second click. 4 H3s/H3Ts in over the past 13 years and yet to have an actuator go out. I guess, I've been lucky.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

 

[zebra]

I haven't had an issue with the door lock actuators so it's never really crossed my mind to have a key for the passenger door. Additionally, you can program the vehicle so that the only door that unlocks on the initial unlock click is the driver's door. See the owner's manual for details, if you're interested.

but what the clicker won't do is unlock the front passenger door without also actuating both rear doors & the back gate. 9 times out of 10, we don't need to open any of them other doors, so it'd be just more extraneous actuations wearing the lock motors out faster. the driver's door is already intermittent, and the first H3 we looked at before buying this one had 3 out of 5 doing the same thing.

it's already bad enough that there's no way to make it quit auto-locking all the doors when you start moving or auto-unlocking everything when you take the key out. as much as we love this truck, those are some of the most aggravating things about it. unlike most people who swap vehicles before parts have time to wear out, we plan on keeping this thing for at least the next 10-15yrs if we can, so parts longevity would be nice - especially when discontinued parts stocks start running out (like with my C5).

 

[zebra]

that & the clicker batteries have been dead for about a year & it ain't been a big enough deal to replace them because we usually use the key anyway.

one other useful thing the Hummer should've had (like on my 2000 vette - which also only has a keyhole on one side) is when you use the key to open the driver's door, a second turn unlocks the other side... and a third pops the trunk.

 

[650Hawk]

Personally, I've never seen a lock actuator motor wear out. More common is issues with the remote, but that's usually a battery issue and has nothing to do with the actuator motor in the truck/car. Most vehicles nowadays have only a single key lock on the driver's door. While I wouldn't mind having one on the rear hatch/door, the others are not a big deal to me. Opening a single door, while it requires unlocking all of them with the remote, locking them back up is just as easy with the remote. BTW, you can program the truck so that only the driver door unlocks (or even none of them) when you put it into park/remove the key rather than all of the doors. I do like the way your 2000 Vette works, but I rarely if ever unlock my truck with a key rather than the remote, so it's kinda moot...

On the other hand, I carry only one FOB; for my H3, and use just a key for my wife's Tahoe since I don't want 2 different FOBS on my keychain. But other than the rear hatch, it really isn't much of a big deal to me.

As for adding a lock to the passenger door; interesting idea but the available parts/mechanism might or might not be compatible used in a "mirrored" configuration. Additionally, it's not just a "hole" drilled in the door; the edges are rolled. Not really sure that it would be worth the work involved, rather than working on getting your keyfob working correctly.

 

[alrock]

I think we're all going to appreciate the relative simplicity of the H3s over the coming years vs. the technology-first position of many new cars. Good luck finding a keyhole on a lot of cars in the future, or control over seat belt warnings, or any of the other things that will be automated/regulated/dumbed down for us.

 

[zebra]

truck battery's good, and it still often takes 2-3 actuations (using the remote, door switches, or ignition-based auto movement) for the lock on the driver door to fully engage/disengage but works just fine every time in either direction with the key (outside) or your finger (inside)... sounds pretty indicative of a weak lock motor. again, the previous '07 H3 we looked at did this same thing on 3 doors.

i remember digging through the manual & playing with options for a half hour when we first bought it & couldn't figure out a way to turn off the automatic lock/unlock. it's an '09 5spd, so maybe our BCM has a different load than y'all's. ours locks at 15mph & unlocks everything when you take the key out of the ignition. the other two options are lock everything @ 15 / only unlock driver when pulling key, or lock everything at 15 / unlock nothing. no matter what you do, it's going to lock you inside the truck. maybe a half-way answer would be setting mode 3.

correct OEM parts for this addition would exist: otherwise, every RHD model around the world would only have a key on the passenger door. i was just asking around on here if anybody'd actually done it & knew the part numbers or any gotchas/pitfalls with the install.

i didn't think about rolling the edges of the hole... that would be more of a pain to do correctly without having many tools here. it would at least have the rubber grommet, so maybe that'd help. i just figured this'd be easier than buying an export door (which, God forbid she get in a wreck, is exactly what i'd do in that situation.)

 

[Jeff V.]

Here's the part numbers if you want to give it a go. The key cylinder is shared with the Colorado. The inner bracket and the lock motor assembly are specific to RHD H3. I don't know if the lock motor is actually different from the US version. The parts catalog only shows that it includes the rod that goes from the motor to the key cylinder, so it has a different part number. Maybe you'll get lucky and be able to just bend a rod to fit the US motor. The bracket and the key cylinder are pretty cheap, but that assumes you can actually buy any of this stuff in the first place. It might be discontinued.

15918467 lock motor assy
19121155 key cylinder
25878780 inner door handle bracket

 

[zebra]

thanks a bunch. i wasn't getting very far in confirming any parts.
if they are discontinued, maybe i could get lucky like i did with the OEM export clear turn signal housings (with the fresnel lenses vs the smooth chinese lenses).

 

[650Hawk]

truck battery's good, and it still often takes 2-3 actuations (using the remote, door switches, or ignition-based auto movement) for the lock on the driver door to fully engage/disengage but works just fine every time in either direction with the key (outside) or your finger (inside)... sounds pretty indicative of a weak lock motor.

Actually, a weak lock motor would also show up when using the key outside or the button inside. Your issue sounds more like a weak key FOB battery to me. Pretty common issue with all FOBS on all vehicles.

i remember digging through the manual & playing with options for a half hour when we first bought it & couldn't figure out a way to turn off the automatic lock/unlock. it's an '09 5spd, so maybe our BCM has a different load than y'all's. ours locks at 15mph & unlocks everything when you take the key out of the ignition. the other two options are lock everything @ 15 / only unlock driver when pulling key, or lock everything at 15 / unlock nothing. no matter what you do, it's going to lock you inside the truck. maybe a half-way answer would be setting mode 3.

You are correct, there is no option that doesn't lock the doors once you are moving; it's likely considered a safety thing.

 

[zebra]

Actually, a weak lock motor would also show up when using the key outside or the button inside. Your issue sounds more like a weak key FOB battery to me. Pretty common issue with all FOBS on all vehicles.
...

i ain't quite following you on this one...
how would the remote's battery be the problem when all it does it command the lock motors to cycle? each electronic button push results in motor movement, which works as designed.

what doesn't work as designed is that one electronic actuation of the lock motor doesn't always result in a complete lock or unlock of the driver's door (the other 4 are fine for now), however, a manual actuation with the door key outside or flipping the lever inside always works with ease.

 

[scoreh3]

Ok just my thought on the electric lock not working....... When my battery was starting to go random doors didn’t lock with the remote. I would have to lock , unlock , relock and check them again. New battery and new terminal ends and the doors lock fine. So that my 2 cents worth.

 

[650Hawk]

i ain't quite following you on this one...
how would the remote's battery be the problem when all it does it command the lock motors to cycle? each electronic button push results in motor movement, which works as designed.

what doesn't work as designed is that one electronic actuation of the lock motor doesn't always result in a complete lock or unlock of the driver's door (the other 4 are fine for now), however, a manual actuation with the door key outside or flipping the lever inside always works with ease.

I was misunderstanding your issue. I thought that "nothing" was happening when you used the FOB, but using the inside buttons worked. Hmmm...I've never had the issue where the FOB resulted in a "partial" lock/unlock.:huh:I can't see why a weak motor would act any differently with the FOB vs the switch or key; it seems like it would be consistent. Maybe try holding the button (on the FOB) a bit longer? Or perhaps take the inside door panel loose and lube the mechanism?