Sagging rear springs - fix vs. bandaid?

[alrock]

My rear springs with 105,000 miles on them (and only driven to church on Sundays!) are sagging about an inch and a half to two inches vs. stock ride height. I need to address this of course.

So, I have a few options:
1) New OEM springs, about $140 per side plus shipping. Let's call it $330.
2) Re-arched springs, with another leaf, for $280. Reputable shop with a good history on re-arched springs
3) Cheating with extended shackles for $40.

So, can I cheat with just adding shackles on worn springs? That would presumably bring the ride height back up but what happens with performance of the springs?

Also, I'm comfortable (sorta) working with one spring at a time but I'm less comfortable removing both springs at one time and then dropping them off at the shop for re-arching. With less things attached on the rear end there's more room for error. The shop wants $325 for this labor.

Re-arching - I don't see bushings as an orderable item for the OEM bushings. I assume there are bushing at each end and I'd want to replace them, right?

So . . . pros, cons, guidance?

 

[07Custom]

If you think you can do it, go spring over axle! I'm having the same problem...I think and SOA seems to be the best fix. I'm just a ****ty mechanic for the most part and am afraid to try this.

 

[4speedfunk]

You guys need to check out Speedy's spring mod in the "Builds" section (Bebe's long travel build). I've been experimenting with some springs and I think Speedy's fix is spot-on and real cheap, too. Probably would work equally well with SO or SU leafs. I can't speak for everybody...but in my case, its not actual saggy springs. Its too much vehicle weight.

 

[Portager]

I don't know how much weight you're carrying in your rear end but I'd start be weighing the 3 and comparing it to stock weight. Could be the springs are fine.

I know I'm carrying more weight in the rear than I should be. ... Stop looking at my a$$, I was talking about the SlantBack, the cargo slide and all the crap on the cargo slide. You should see it when I'm hauling 36 gallons of water for the sluice. Talk about water weight!

 

[07Custom]

It's funny, that picture of the spring backward arching looks very similar to mine. I would consider adding springs and clamps, but I think that may not be enough for my rig since bebes already had the SOA going on. I emailed you a pic of my rear spring set up which is weird. I'll talk with ya later!

 

[Hunner]

I'm not a believer in shackles, as I have stated my case and experience with those. I think that is a temporary fix and will flatten the springs, by changing the leverage on them.
I will go for re-arch when it's my time and discuss any added leaves at that time. However if the re-arch is done with some lift and the ride is good I'm not sure adding any leaves for the normal load will be necessary.
What I may do is discuss an overload that only comes into play when I am loaded heavy and towing. The rest of the time I want a good flexing spring.
If the metal is not fatigued to begin with and is capable of a re-arch, to be determined by the shop, I think it is best to have them both done at the same time to help prevent any confusion and to get them the same. They should have bushings.
Just my idea based on trucks I have had done in the past.
I noticed a couple of weeks ago with 52,000 miles, loaded up for wheeling and the lake, towing my boat the rear does go down more than it used to.
Perhaps air bags would be the solution in my case. That way I can adjust for the load and situation but have the regular flexy ride for on and offroad.
I would think even with short front hangers, with no front lift there might be too much lift with a spring over without sacrificing spring action in order to get it down.
I'm sure some creative options will start appearing as we get up there in mileage.
Stock shackles loaded

Extended shackles loaded showing the spring pack separating and the end of the top leaf being forced down.

 

[speedy]

I wish you lived closer:sigh: I would be all over this:gaah:

Go with option 2 with the extra leaf.Have them make the second spring longer to help with the bending at the rear of the springs.
A re-arch with out the support of another spring will just sag again.
I'm not sure you even need your springs re-arched just beefed up.But until someone tries it we won't know:corn:

 

[MaxPF]

Go SOA. Otherwise, of the three options you listed, replacement with OE springs is best. Here's why: shackles alter pinion angle, which could cause driveline vibes. Re-arching high mile springs means you are yielding already settled springs, which will cause them to settle faster. Further, adding an extra leaf will increase the rate of the springs, making them ride harsher.

 

[Xlr8n]

Seems the OE springs, primarily the main arch, were under rated for the weight and load of the H3. Adding any additonal weigh at all seems to cause the negative bend near the loop.
Wouldn't the OE springs still be prone to this fatigue even if you go SOA?

 

[alrock]

I like the fact that the consensus is . . . heck, there ain't no consensus! Great discussion.

I'm leaning towards the Speedy recommendation but the toughest obstacle is simply getting the springs to the shop. I haven't figured out a way to take the springs off and then drive the truck to the shop :wink:

 

[davidh3]

:corn:I can't help anything, but I just say Good Luck to you admin

 

[speedy]

I have already added the second leaf to Bebe's stock springs.The ride is excellent as good or better then her stock 08 H3.
If i had used what is referred to as an add-a-leaf which has a high spring rate and is designed to create lift and carrying capacity the ride would be harsh
Starting on post 75 http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...ravel-H3-Build-Thread-A-Boy-Howdy-Story/page5 you will see what i used and how it came out.Remember this is a SOA and a spring under may be different.

I think Alex needs a vacation.Maybe California for a long weekend:wink:

 

[3Hummers]

Alex works for an ice cream company, everyday is a vacation.

 

[speedy]

Alex works for an ice cream company, everyday is a vacation.

I'll work for ice cream:giggle: Shouldn't take more then a few hours.

 

[Xlr8n]

I have already added the second leaf to Bebe's stock springs.The ride is excellent as good or better then her stock 08 H3.
If i had used what is referred to as an add-a-leaf which has a high spring rate and is designed to create lift and carrying capacity the ride would be harsh
Starting on post 75 http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...ravel-H3-Build-Thread-A-Boy-Howdy-Story/page5 you will see what i used and how it came out.Remember this is a SOA and a spring under may be different.

I think Alex needs a vacation.Maybe California for a long weekend:wink:

The added single long leaf looks to be a viable soluton. Do you feel you would benefit from a friction pad between the main leaf and your added leaf? Looks to be getting a good workout at that contact point. Have you experienced any noise from it?

 

[06 H3]

great discussion. Speedy did you buy the chevy leaf new or just from some junkyard?

 

[Hans3T]

I'm an interesting case. When I lifted the truck one add-a-leaf was not enough. Added another add-a-leaf and extented rear shackles and that brought them up a ton. The ext-shack has sort of flattened the spring out, like Hunner cited, but not too bad yet. I don't keep a ton of stuff in the bed at all times...probably 50lbs total if even.

Keep us in the loop, as I am definitely interested in learning the best way to beef-up the rear springs - other than going the modified SOA route.

>Sent using Tapacrack<

 

[06 H3]

Is yours a bit rough hans? I'm trying to figure out if there's a difference between a specific add a leaf or adding the 63in Chevy leaf.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[bebe]

Let me see if I can explain......

Add-a-leafs are a higher [read-firmer] spring rate because they lift and support the vehicle weight...because of that, they ride rough.

An OEM leaf spring is a progressive rate spring. Meaning as it flexes it gets stiffer, if it stays within normal on road driving conditions it is softer.

The reason for adding a progressive rate spring is it will support the weak Main leaf and not add any firmness to the ride. No lift, just support.

When I added my extended shackles I also added the Sway-a-way Load Pros which helped keep the springs from sagging until we did the SOA. This was just a temporary fix until I could take the truck to the next level.

I think adding one progressive rate leaf long enough to support the main leaf should solve all the issues. The Chevy 63" (1/2 ton, 3/4 and 1 ton - you want the 3/4 ton or Chevy 2500) can be picked up in just about any junk yard ($50 for a pair of full spring packs).

 

[alrock]

I'll work for ice cream:giggle: Shouldn't take more then a few hours.

Let's compromise - I'll meet in you in Vegas next Monday!:wink:

 

[bebe]

Drive out here Alex, you and I can do some day runs while Rick works on your Truck - you need to see Fordyce and the Rubicon anyway.

 

[MaxPF]

How long are stock H3 packs? I thought they were shorter than 63"... ???

 

[bebe]

I don't remember exactly (54"?) - but yes...much shorter, and they have a offset centerpin. That's why the Chevy springs were perfect, (they are centered) so by cutting the one end off short and leaving the other long, you have an offset leaf that fits perfectly!

 

[MaxPF]

I'm running 56" springs on my K5, which are asymmetrical as well (26" on the leading side, 30" on the trailing). If there are compatible springs commonly used on other vehicles it makes it easy to build your own packs. In my case, I took an aftermarket 4-leaf 4" lift pack with no Overload designed for a regular tension-shackle app in a Suburban and certain pickups, removed the bottom leaf, added the overload from my old 52" pack (to control axle wrap), and am using it in a compression shackle setup. Overall, it nets me probably around 6" of lift with a fairly soft rate. I did save the bottom leaf, in case they settle too much down the road. The original 4 leaf 52" springs are getting swapped to the front in place of the 48's, where they will give a better ride and better support the heavy Cummins. This is a common swap on K5's, although guys usually run 3 leaves rather than 4... but they don't have an 1100lb engine under the hood I may have to add a fifth leaf, but I think 4 will be fine since they were designed for a 1/2 ton capacity truck.

Anyway Alex, Bebe is right - you can add a suitable leaf and see if you like it. It's a cheap, easy mod. Just make sure you have new center bolts before you start. You can even play with building your own spring packs out of suitable donor springs, which is one of the advantages leaf springs have over coils.

 

[bebe]

Anyway Alex, Bebe is right - you can add a suitable leaf and see if you like it. It's a cheap, easy mod. Just make sure you have new center bolts before you start. You can even play with building your own spring packs out of suitable donor springs, which is one of the advantages leaf springs have over coils.

A new set of U-bolts too....they are for the most part...not re-useable. They stretch.