is there an upgrade for the front driveshaft?

[backcountryislife]

Getting a delightful sound coming about every 3rd revolution from what sounds like the CV at the front of the T-case.

Didn't make noise on the trail, didn't make noise on the way home, but now it's making a thudding noise. Changed plugs today (two were rather loose... glad I changed them!) and wanted to be sure I didn't get a code as I've heard some folks do, so I drove to town quick & started hearing this noise.


Sounds like the joint is bad, any suggestions on what to upgrade with?

 

[alrock]

I believe Bebe has a good replacement. Reaper also upgraded his thorough a CO shop.

 

[bebe]

Send it to Jess at High Angle Driveline...tell him you know me, he'll fix you up. Very cool and easy to talk too. But I don't think your driveline is having an issue - it looks fine to me. To the right of that pick there is a CV boot - what does it look like?

 

[bebe]

PS - if it's shifting fine between 4hi, 4hi lock, and 4 lo lock, it's not likely the T-case. I suggested front differential, only because noise can travel through components. Check the Diff bushing /bolt at the cross member and check for up and down, side to side and in and out play in the driveline.


The first time I broke my diff I ripped 8 teeth off of it, and it did as you are describing, every 10 feet or so it made a crunching/clunking sound. With a thump and a shudder.

 

[backcountryislife]

It's not the T case, it's either the CV in front of the T case (when spinning the wheel being under the vehicle that's where it sounds like it is) or could be forward of that.

The boot looks good, but with hand on driveshaft as spinning, it feels like it hitches there when spinning.

Getting a 4:1 case anyhow though, sick of burning clutch trying to go slower.

Guess I'll probably get to do a diff not as well... awesome.

 

[cbetts]

Getting a 4:1 case anyhow though, sick of burning clutch trying to go slower.

Guess I'll probably get to do a diff not as well... awesome.

You will LOVE having the 4:1 with the manual tranny. I hardly have to touch the clutch when crawling over rocks, just the occasional goose on the throttle to keep it from stalling.

 

[backcountryislife]

Yeah.. I think a lower ratio will make the manual actually enjoyable again. as I've done harder & harder stuff, I've noticed how much more work it requires, and how much more it works the truck. I'm excited to eliminate that factor.


Also, finding two spark plugs loose yesterday... I'm pretty sure THAT wasn't doing me any favors either!! I whine enough about power... don't need to be sending it out the plug hole!! Lower compression is hardly a good thing at this altitude. The hardest features on the trail sat are at about 11,200 feet.

 

[cbetts]

Yeah.. I think a lower ratio will make the manual actually enjoyable again. as I've done harder & harder stuff, I've noticed how much more work it requires, and how much more it works the truck. I'm excited to eliminate that factor.


Also, finding two spark plugs loose yesterday... I'm pretty sure THAT wasn't doing me any favors either!! I whine enough about power... don't need to be sending it out the plug hole!! Lower compression is hardly a good thing at this altitude. The hardest features on the trail sat are at about 11,200 feet.

Tell me about it! I make regular trips up to the 12,000 ft mark myself. You need all the power those five squirrels can muster!

 

[reaper]

Here's the driveline guy I used. This is from the google... I have his business card somewhere in the hummer if this doesn't connect you. He charged me around $500 for a rebuilt rear driveshaft with a universal joint and slip connection as I need a lengthened (this is so not going to sound right) shaft. :emb:

T & A Starter Alternator & Axel Inc provides alternator and starter sales to Englewood, CO. Call 720-389-6614

 

[bebe]

Here's the driveline guy I used. This is from the google... I have his business card somewhere in the hummer if this doesn't connect you. He charged me around $500 for a rebuilt rear driveshaft with a universal joint and slip connection as I need a lengthened (this is so not going to sound right) shaft. :emb:

T & A Starter Alternator & Axel Inc provides alternator and starter sales to Englewood, CO. Call 720-389-6614

Did they do a front for you too?

The front is a whole different animal.

 

[Bigunit]

...as I need a lengthened (this is so not going to sound right) shaft. :emb:

:asoff: :rofl:

 

[backcountryislife]

If the front is the issue, I'll be getting a CV rebuild kit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-GMC-Pickup-Truck-Front-Driveshaft-Rear-CV-Joint-Rebuild-Kit-/130576650777?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AHummer%7CModel%3AH3&hash=item1e66f99219&vxp=mtr#ht_1608wt_1059

The shaft is clean, the U joint is healthy... but it SOUNDS like it's coming from the CV...


With what is happening though, it seems like it could be a tooth on the ring gear levering the shaft so that it hits on the other end, making the noise seem like that's where the problem is.

When going down the road, it seems to be front right, but when spinning the wheel at home, it is very much making the noise at the rear CV.

 

[backcountryislife]

Did they do a front for you too?

The front is a whole different animal.

Other guys on the local forum have posted pics of CV based shafts that they've done as well. They're a company that's well trusted by local folks.

 

[bebe]

It's not the CV that's the issue, it's the flange and don't let them use the 3-R CV - it's not meant for street applications.

Just call Jess. He'll tell you what is up.

You can go back to my PBB thread and search "Drive line" for the full story.

 

[backcountryislife]

seems like that's likely not the issue anyhow... I wish it was!

 

[4speedfunk]

If all else fails...I got at least one H3 front flange sitting on the shelf. I can put a front together for you in a couple days. The shaft is nothing special but, the flange is.