Brakes

[IndyHummers]

Anyone do their own brakes on their 3 what all does it entail? Any tips or advice for a first timer? What should I do about rotors, etc? Thanks!

 

[jakesz28]

The fronts are pretty easy. I would get new pins on the front. I didn't realize each side has 2 guide pins that retain the pads in the calipers. So I did not have new ones when I put the ceramic pads and new rotors on. I don't know if a need to tell you to go to a specific place for parts but it is easy. If you just replace the pads all you need is pliers to pull the hair pin clip, maybe a file to clean the rust off the pins, then a hammer and punch possibly to drive the pins out. The calipers require a socket to remove if replacing the rotors. I used a small pry bar to slide the pistons back in the calipers by prying it both directions before removing.

 

[Xlr8n]

If you have ever changed disc brake pads, the H3's are no harder. Just clean the alignment pins with a wire brush and maybe add a touch of grease to them. If your rotors aren't grooved, then you can re-use them as-is. Some like to resurface them if you have enough material left.

 

[08SolarFlareH3]

Not sure about other brand pads but ACDelco pads come with new pins and hardware.


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[Xlr8n]

Not sure about other brand pads but ACDelco pads come with new pins and hardware.


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Good to know for next time. The NAPA's I bought did not come with any hardware.

 

[Dennis]

You might find this of some use;

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...JOB-Front-Brakes&p=30506&viewfull=1#post30506

 

[alrock]

The hardware is a nice bonus with the AC Delco pads, and I have had a better experience with the OEMs than Raybestos' best ones on the H3. Both front and rear brakes are very easy to do.

 

[deserth3]

When I did mine with non AC Delco pads, the hardware kit was ordered seperately.

 

[SolidusJ]

I just started to hear my pads chirping today after 41,XXX miles, so after reading I'm thinking AC Delco is the way to go? I was going to get EBC pads but I don't pull a lot with the T and the OEM pads did just fine and lasted almost 4 years. Any other pads I should look into?

 

[Xlr8n]

The NAPA Safety Stop pads are equivalent composition to OEM and are about $52 an axle, but you'd have to buy the hardware kit separate which is about $11.

 

[tfm-Neil]

I've had good results using Akebono pads. The Pro-ACT ceramic brake pad set for the H3 comes with the full hardware kit too.
Their basically an OE equiv. pad, should be around $70 online.

 

[4speedfunk]

EBC greenies. Love em...never goin back to anything else.

 

[SolidusJ]

EBC greenies. Love em...never goin back to anything else.

I love to get them but I saw them $120 fronts and $80 for the rear. I'm looking at $200 all together so does the EBC's come with the new pins and what not?

 

[tfm-Neil]

Unless things have changed recently EBC doesn't include the hardware kit with their pads.

For those who are really set on looking for pads with more bite I'd recommend checking out Carbotech pads. http://www.ctbrakes.com
They have 8 different pad compounds that can be ordered for the H3.
I recently did my fronts on my H3 and went with the "1521 compound" Carbotech pads, they where $138 shipped plus $15 for a hardware kit.

I'd still recommend Akebono pads as a more budget friendly option, they are probably the best bang for your buck. :thumbs:

 

[SolidusJ]

Unless things have changed recently EBC doesn't include the hardware kit with their pads.

For those who are really set on looking for pads with more bite I'd recommend checking out Carbotech pads. http://www.ctbrakes.com
They have 8 different pad compounds that can be ordered for the H3.
I recently did my fronts on my H3 and went with the "1521 compound" Carbotech pads, they where $138 shipped plus $15 for a hardware kit.

I'd still recommend Akebono pads as a more budget friendly option, they are probably the best bang for your buck. :thumbs:

Ok I still find it hard to think that I might have to pay $200 for pads all around.

 

[Xlr8n]

Ok I still find it hard to think that I might have to pay $200 for pads all around.

$104 bucks plus tax for all 4 wheels for pads at NAPA as I posted above. Equal to OEM composition so you don't have to worry about the pads eating up the rotors prematurely as many of the more aggressive pads do. In most cases the hardware can be reused with no problems. Clean the pins with a brush and lube with a bit of brake grease as recommended.

 

[4speedfunk]

Yeah...I grew up in the 80s, when I could buy all the brake shoes (drums f & r) for my 62 Belair for about $30. Just like turning rotors...them days are gone.

 

[Dennis]

I used these Brakes on my last Brake Job last January..they are awesome..and have not one single little issue..they stop perfect with no noise or vibration..they are IMO better than the factory brakes..today I still can see some of the machining marks on the rotors faces showing very little wear so far.. and virtually zero dust on the wheels..

check them out here.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-...el:H3|Make:Hummer&hash=item5ae8407b01&vxp=mtr

 

[08SolarFlareH3]

$80 for front and rear ACDelco pads

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000S2PISE/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1346513559&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000S2O4KM/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1346513612&sr=8-1


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[4speedfunk]

Thats a killer deal. Looks like they come with hardware too.

 

[SolidusJ]

I really want the EBC's but damn....

 

[SolidusJ]

Well I got the EBC's and they should be in about a week, better be worth $200+!!!!

 

[jakesz28]

I went with a ceramic pad. But my pins had a lot of wear at 52000 miles. The front will dive hard and the ABS kicks in when a deer runs out in front of u.

 

[4speedfunk]

SolidusJ...I recently tore into my H3 to do a SOA and some other mods. Since I had everything apart, I figured I would replace my rear pads at that time. I was very surprised to find both of the rear calipers were froze onto the floater pins! There was no side-to-side movement at all, and I had to PB-Blast the pins and wiggle them back & forth just to get em apart. This is normal for a 100K mile brake job...but came as a big surprise at only 29K on the clock. Guess those weekend jaunts through the mud and creeks had taken their tole.

If you don't have any...go get some "Brake Caliper Grease". Clean the pins with solvent & steel wool and re-lube them when you swap rear brake shoes. You should be able to grab the caliper after you've re-assembled it, and easily slide it back & forth about a 1/4" to 1/2". Failure to lube the pins will guarantee that the caliper will freeze up...and you'll immediately start wearing-out the brand new ($$$$) pads. Given the cost of the EBC-pads...a tiny bit of grease is cheap insurance. My ABS and TCS seem to work much better (and less often) now that the calipers are free to float like they're supposed to.

P.S. You won't have this issue on the fronts, as they are non-floating.

 

[alrock]

Brake caliper grease - is that the same as the silicone grease that comes with the AC Delco brakes and hardware? I've always removed and cleaned the pins and regreased them. I did have to replace a rear caliper that would not come apart with any efforts - PB Blaster, torch, etc. Boot was torn so I think that sped up the seizing.