And we're ready to start!

[cbetts]

I take mine to the top of the Sierras every year and reach around 12,000 ft. It wasn't until I put on the Gibson Exhaust and AirDoc that it started to pull up the 20 steep slopes with ease at higher elevations.

 

[reaper]

I thought someone said it was about 1300 in parts? for $700, I might start ordering parts & turn my spare into another 4:1!

I stand corrected. After taking your 4493 apart, here's what's different: the main shaft, the ring gear, the high/lo assembly, the hi/low hub. Those parts alone to make the 4493 into a 4494 will run at LEAST $1240.91 (priced from hummerpartsonline.com). So.. probably not worth it... BUT... there are quite a few parts that I will be stealing from your case.... Now waiting on my new hub gear.

 

[reaper]

I take mine to the top of the Sierras every year and reach around 12,000 ft. It wasn't until I put on the Gibson Exhaust and AirDoc that it started to pull up the 20 steep slopes with ease at higher elevations.

I second Cbett's recommendation... we should get you an AirDoc. It's really simple, and once you put it on you'll wonder why they didn't come from the factory like that. The airdoc cuts out this ridiculuous air baffle from the top of the manifold... it just makes sense. I'll show you in person next time.

 

[backcountryislife]

I've got an intake already, not sure how it compares though.

 

[reaper]

I've got an intake already, not sure how it compares though.

Do you have the baffle? The intake hooks onto the airdoc, the airdoc is just a pipe that replaces the air baffle.

 

[cbetts]

This will explain everything! :link:

 

[backcountryislife]

Got a solid tube going to a cold air setup... but looks different than that.

 

[cbetts]

The AirDoc also comes with a bigger inlet into the airbox.

 

[backcountryislife]

AAh... mine is solid tube to the box... but the box is still there.

Any dyno info on what difference this makes?

 

[backcountryislife]

yep... 4:1 t-case will do just fine.

Ready for tomorrow... let's see what we can break next!

 

[cgalpha08]

You seem to be missing your door handle lol but thats a pretty nice angle!!

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[backcountryislife]

You seem to be missing your door handle lol but thats a pretty nice angle!!

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Good catch... the rear part broke, then a buddy f'd up the handle and linkage (thanks tom...) but I run without doors usually anyhow, so not hurrying to tear the door apart...

Btw, if you have a manual, you can switch t cases without getting the computer flashed fyi. Everyone said I'd need it, so I assumed that was the case... got a $100 present by not needing it today.

Pretty stoked about that... plug and play really!!

Now what I DID need though... was to get my wheels aligned, and I forgot...derrrrrr....

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[06 H3]

Im so stoked! Have fun out there man!

 

[backcountryislife]

So, here's my next question, in regards to what we've talked about earlier about gearing...


Could you use one of these on an H3... seems reasonably priced, seems well set up???

http://www.northwestfab.com/NWF-BlackBox-Underdrive-Unit_c_13.html

 

[cgalpha08]

Looks interesting, if you do get it, you'd be the first that i know of to put one in an h3.

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[Portager]

Since you already have a transfer case that provides a reduction (in my case 4:1) all you really need is a fixed reduction that compensates for the oversized wheels. A single speed reduction should be much simpler, smaller and cheaper than a shiftable reduction. If the reduction is between the transmission and the transfer case you only need one reduction gear, but you are reducing speed and increasing torque which isn't too good for a fragile drive train. If you located the reduction gears after the differential or even the half shafts then the increased torque would be at the wheel where you need it and would not increase the torque on the drive train. They have a name for these fixed reduction gears located at the end of the axel, ... O yea they are called portals. You can also get them that provide additional ground clearance.

 

[06 H3]

I looked into these. Portals are badass but expensive and would be tough to adapt. These reduction units are interesting. I had a thread on them let me search and link it. I even called up a company who makes these and they said I would probably need a SYE kit and new driveshafts front and rear. Along with that a new modified crossmember as everything gets pushed back. While you are increasing torque I wonder how much stress will actually be put on it. With these you can literally take your foot off the brake and you will crawl. Now besides the new driveshafts and crossmember the last concern was the computer not recognizing the additional reduction. ReconH3 almost did this during his build and I contemplated it. You are becoming a guy around here to tackle these issues head on so try it! I want to and may in the future it's just this is my DD and can't have it down for that long.

 

[atvspeed4]

I love the idea of this, run this and 37's and you may be perfect. Its about the same cost as it would be to regear (if we could go lower than 4.56) and you can select it. You would need to calculate final drive ratio but I am wondering what your highway rpm would be running our 5 speed in fifth gear, this unit in low, our transfercase in all wheel drive (high) and 4.56 gears. We could end up discovering that we could run highway gears 3.08 or hopefully higher in our diff (very strong/ large pinion), that unit in low and our transfercase in high and on 37's be at a good ratio. I am not sure if this would work though as that unit would be spinning pretty fast for an extended period of time and would heat up I would think.

 

[06 H3]

This was actually the exact company I spoke to for the exact same unit. They were really cool and knowledge

 

[06 H3]

I love the idea of this, run this and 37's and you may be perfect. Its about the same cost as it would be to regear (if we could go lower than 4.56) and you can select it. You would need to calculate final drive ratio but I am wondering what your highway rpm would be running our 5 speed in fifth gear, this unit in low, our transfercase in all wheel drive (high) and 4.56 gears. We could end up discovering that we could run highway gears 3.08 or hopefully higher in our diff (very strong/ large pinion), that unit in low and our transfercase in high and on 37's be at a good ratio. I am not sure if this would work though as that unit would be spinning pretty fast for an extended period of time and would heat up I would think.

Run in it in low on the street? If you run it in high it's 1:1 and it's like it's not even there. Good idea though...higher gears would really help strengthen it.

 

[backcountryislife]

Ok... so if there's a non shiftable way to throw a reduction in front of my T-case... I'll take one. Where is it!!!???


On my truck, being a manual, I don't think the computer is a factor. People said it would be for going to the 4:1, and it wasn't at all. Obviously, this isn't the case for auto guys, so what may work for a few could have a significant roadblock for the rest.

Seems to me, crossmember, shafts & install would be the only factors, and rear shaft angle, but I'm not up that high, so don't think that's a huge factor having a 7.25" shorter rear driveshaft.


People talk about more torque with the lower gearing, but you're going slower, and eliminating shock loading... to me, that's WAY safer than high gears & spinning tires.

I love the idea of this with lower diff gearing, but I think the heat issue would be a factor. Driving in 4L all the time can't be good for the unit!

On the other hand, my sled runs a plantary reduction unit

And that's full time... would this really be that different?

 

[06 H3]

Agreed! Way less stress IMO but don't start spinning because them u have more stress. The SYE was only recommended to me the TJ guys have to run em becuse there driveshafts are like an inch long. Lol

I even measured the length back and I think the modified crossmember was just before the gas tank which is great and causes way less issues

 

[06 H3]

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showpost.php?p=46466

 

[backcountryislife]

crap... thought I had more than 7" to the 2nd crossmember, you're right it would need to be notched.

I can't justify going to coils... lots of fab, to keep a IFS setup I'd rather get rid of... to me that's throwing good money after bad.

Would there be another way to "relocate" the torsion bars without huge work? (probably not, just trying to think of what could be done)

 

[atvspeed4]

Yeh I was referring to running this thing in low on the street and your tcase in high. Ever see a overdrive unit? http://www.gearvendors.com/4x4.html My friend's step dad has one on his h1 and a supercharger too but thats another story. This would act as an underdrive unit. And allow you to run huge highway gears