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Spring over Highangle driveline

06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Gonna get ready to order one...I am not sure what all this stuff means. Can anyone help me out? Do I need a longer driveline too, how much longer? If I dont get it in time can I wheel on Oct.20th at last chance canyon or will I risk cracking the rear of the t case?

I will rewrite a new one afterwords...

http://www.highangledriveline.com/Custom Driveshaft Order Sheet.pdf

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218F974A-2C8A-4C26-973A-553DD428BBDF-14666-00000E96287C5CE4.jpg
 
bebe

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
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06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Alright! I did some reading and I think I understand...and answered some of my own questions.

So I will be going for the double cardan driveshaft. I am still staying with a slip yoke. (no SYEs for the H3) The double cardan shaft will accommodate the steeper angles, I am assuming the guys over at highangle may still have the stock driveshaft length from when you ordered but will measure it just to be safe. The T case angle I need to still measure and have the pinion angle. I knew what the 1350s are, they are beefy :)

Bebe, you said your driveline is a CV but isnt technically a double U joint or double cardian setup?

I guess the last question is how much the tube needs to be lengthened. I didnt see anything in the articles on how to measure for that. maybe i missed it...

Kinda off topic but still on topic with driveshafts.
I spoke to SierraH3 a while back and he had talked with off road unlimited who has done plenty of spring overs on other rigs, I find it interesting how they claim if you do a S.O. "right" you dont need a new driveline. I find that interesting as the vehicle is lifted and naturally it is further away from the T case. When my brothers heep was lifted he needed a longer driveshaft to accomodate for the added travel. I just find it weird how they claim you dont need a new one, I guess if your not wheeling you dont need one. I havent wheeled yet and have had no issues on the street but the slip yoke is pulled out more then stock and my axle isnt pushed further back. The centerpin of the leaf spring is DEAD ON with the bumpstop. Makes me wonder what they are thinking...
 
ReconH3

ReconH3

Guardian Angel
Messages
2,288
Location
Raleigh, NC
I just got my High Angle driveshaft and it's worth every penny. Not so much for the length, even though you may need it, but for the CV double cardan. Our transfer cases are very sensitive to any type of vibration. The bearing that supports the output shaft is badly designed and fails very easily. The HAD CV design should come as an OEM feature that would avoid a lot of the transfer case failures. Call Jess and he'll tell you exactly what he needs. Thanks Bebe for the contact.
 
bebe

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
06 H3 said:
Alright! I did some reading and I think I understand...and answered some of my own questions.

So I will be going for the double cardan driveshaft. I am still staying with a slip yoke. (no SYEs for the H3) The double cardan shaft will accommodate the steeper angles, I am assuming the guys over at highangle may still have the stock driveshaft length from when you ordered but will measure it just to be safe. The T case angle I need to still measure and have the pinion angle. I knew what the 1350s are, they are beefy :)

Bebe, you said your driveline is a CV but isnt technically a double U joint or double cardian setup?

I guess the last question is how much the tube needs to be lengthened. I didnt see anything in the articles on how to measure for that. maybe i missed it...

Kinda off topic but still on topic with driveshafts.
I spoke to SierraH3 a while back and he had talked with off road unlimited who has done plenty of spring overs on other rigs, I find it interesting how they claim if you do a S.O. "right" you dont need a new driveline. I find that interesting as the vehicle is lifted and naturally it is further away from the T case. When my brothers heep was lifted he needed a longer driveshaft to accomodate for the added travel. I just find it weird how they claim you dont need a new one, I guess if your not wheeling you dont need one. I havent wheeled yet and have had no issues on the street but the slip yoke is pulled out more then stock and my axle isnt pushed further back. The centerpin of the leaf spring is DEAD ON with the bumpstop. Makes me wonder what they are thinking...
Click to expand...

The BillaVista Article shows the one ton 1350 CV, that's exactly what you will order. You will measure with the Driveline out. Call Jess and he will tell you exactly what he needs.

As far as the comments from that shop - have they done spring overs on a lot of H3's? You cannot keep the same OEM length when you do a net 4" lift, sorry, I will argue that to the death :) Especially not on a vehicle as long as an H3. He's probably talking about TJ's and YJ's.
 
Sierra H3

Sierra H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
150
Location
Central Sierras
bebe said:
The BillaVista Article shows the one ton 1350 CV, that's exactly what you will order. You will measure with the Driveline out. Call Jess and he will tell you exactly what he needs.

As far as the comments from that shop - have they done spring overs on a lot of H3's? You cannot keep the same OEM length when you do a net 4" lift, sorry, I will argue that to the death :) Especially not on a vehicle as long as an H3. He's probably talking about TJ's and YJ's.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify - that statement was from a shop called Road N' Truck in Thousand Oaks. He has not lifted an H3, just small trucks and Jeeps. During a separate call to ORU in Burbank, I was told they had been researching on how to lift an H3. Maybe reading Bebe's info on the web!
 
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