H3 Bolt removal UCA

[mkmcgreg]

Can someone help with how this bolt is suppose to come out? I have removed the clip on the brake line on top of the shock tower but I can't get the line to move. Figured before I muscle it and potential break something I should have another adult beverage and ask the audience

 

[mkmcgreg]

Bolt removal UCP

** upper control arm ** not UCP

 

[Reloader]

With the clip removed the bulkhead fitting should wiggle loose with a little effort and penetrating oil. Its probably just rusted in place . You could lightly tap it downward with a hammer and a chunk of aluminum or hardwood. Be carefull not to accidently knock loose the cam pins in the controll arm frame mounts. They are critical to doing the alignment. You may have to unbolt upper shock to get more clearence also. That bushing looks nasty. Good luck.

 

[mkmcgreg]

Bolt removal UCP

Thanks ill give it a try. The brake line loose but not willing to move enough to be out of the way. I can wiggle it up and down about the thickness of the retainer clip I will put some oil on it and lightly tap it down. Is there enough play that you don't have to remove the brake line? That's all that's holding the UCA on now

 

[4speedfunk]

The rigid brake lines are fairly "bendable", and you should be able to gently bend it out of the way to allow the cam-bolt to pass by it. Just don't get crazy and kink it.

Yet another example of "assembly line" forethought. Clearly there wasn't much discussion about access clearances for future maintenance/repairs. The manufacturer's goal is to get the vehicle assembled as fast as possible and be capable of reaching full term...36K miles or 3-years. Most new vehicles use TTY bolts, snap-lock fuel fittings, and many other little tricks to save a minute here or a few seconds there. I assume this is also why there are no zirk fittings. Actually repairing & replacing parts like this is just plain crazy. By the time this part wears out...you're supposed to trade the truck in on a brand new vehicle! Shame on you!

BTW...You'll have the same situation if you ever try to remove the left-rear leaf spring from the frame. GM installs the mounting bolt from the inboard-side out...and then installs the fuel tank right on top of it. So you have to drop the tank to get the bolt out. (or do what I did)....Cut the head off the bolt and install a new bolt from the outbord-side in, the way it should have been in the first place.

 

[mkmcgreg]

Bolt removal UCP

Thanks I was able to get it this morning. I had to rotate the fuel line to allow it to slip in thru the hole. Then a gentle tug and the bolt came out

 

[alrock]

If I recall correctly, I disconnected the brake line to remove that bolt and then of course had to bleed the brake later.

 

[mkmcgreg]

If I recall correctly, I disconnected the brake line to remove that bolt and then of course had to bleed the brake later.

There is just enough wiggle room that you can get the bolt out without removing the brake line.. I was trying to prevent doing so.. Thanks for the help..

CJ I am going to clean up the old one to see if the zirk fitting we installed is damaged at all from the inside